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What was the code causing the check engine light this time vs the last time? If you can't prove they are not different issues, then there is no reason to believe this light is related to the thing they just fixed. Also, why are you still taking a VW to a Honda dealership when you have no warranty? That is incredibly wasteful. Find a local mechanic that specializes in VWs. They will know more, and charge less than any dealership.

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Gotcha then I would suggest vanguard or another low fee broker

I don't know about VW but I used to have a Honda and the check engine light would come on every six months no matter how little my wife and I drove. after a while I figured out it must be on a timer. easy to turn off too with instructions on YouTube.

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you have to look at the receipt for the repair explanation and they new estimate. i've had pep boys forget to clear the light and i'd do it myself. same with their new repair. most so called repairs aren't repairs but just normal wear and tear

You're right. I just don't think most people have their cars break 10mi after leaving the repair shop. Also, logically, if the car needed $3k more worth of repairs to begin with, wouldn't it have made more sense the first time it was brought in? Why would the dealership forgo that potential cash If that was initially the case? Also, they have told my dad several times they don't know how to deal with Volkswagens.

I've told him to go elsewhere but he's old fashioned and I bought it from that dealer.

Also, I live in Dallas and my brothers use my car to go to their part time jobs in fort worth. I don't see the purpose in driving an hour and a half to get a car serviced that I don't use anymore.

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Great point! I might expand this to "...why to use a credit rather than debit card for almost everything."

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Exactly...so you do understand why percentages don't fit all incomes then.

I agree with the secured card. Check with your bank if you have an account. They should be able to open one for you and just transfer the money. You’ll get it back after a year or so and it’ll just be a credit card. Just remember to pay off your balance completely every month.

You better believe it!

Then they should have put him back on

You are not wrong. Just want to point out that it varies on the interest of the loan. An extra payment per year on a 30-year loan at 9% gives you 8 years off, but an extra payment on a 4% loan gives you 4 years off.

Should work out in time, but this is an excellent example of why to use a credit rather than debit card for miscellaneous expenses.

Whether it's fraud or a billing error like this, it's less disruptive to have a hold against a credit limit than cash absent from your primary checking.

Then you’ll want to research “probating a will” in your state and see if the directions are clear enough.

>I don't think they have ever said that the rules they have set apply to X income and up.

But yet it obviously is based on income. I mean you seem like a smart person, take some time to think about it. What would that percentage budget mean for someone making 30k versus 300k.

When gurus like this give advice they HAVE to give generic advice because they aren't talking to you, they are talking to literally anyone who watches them. So their advice is given to fit with the mean basically, so that in a random set the advice will be decent for most people. That doens't mean its good for everyone. The concepts are sound, but never just blindly apply percentages to your savings or budgets,

The spending doesn't change your savings rate though.

Just to be clear, I send them an internal secure message using the left side menu. Now that I am looking back on it, I actually think they did not give me an increase, but I honestly can't remember. Sorry.

Here is the actual message I sent to Chase Card Services, Subject "Account Inquiry"

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>I am requesting a credit line increase.
Total Annual Income: xxxx
Employment Status: [Employed/Unemployed, PT/FT]
Occupation: [your job]
Monthly Mortgage/Rent: x
Expect Credit Usage per month: x
Desired Credit Increase: xxxx
My credit score is in excellent standing and I have not
made any late payments. I have frequent use of this card
and recently opened another checking account with Chase.
Thank you,
[name]

They responded back in the message center the next day:

>Hello [my name],
Thank you for contacting us.
[my name], by submitting a request for a credit line
increase, you authorize us to obtain a copy of your credit
report, credit-reporting history and any other information
to determine if we can approve the request. After we
receive your response, we'll reply with our decision.
We appreciate you being a Chase customer.
Thank you,
[agent name, I think]
Chase Email Servicing

Edit: formatting

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Pretty sure I am. It's been awhile since I've seen it though. He got it done maybe a few years ago after some pestering from us for him to do it.

Percentages are good for rules of thumb but often crap for individual circumstances. Why?

If I told someone who made $40k a year that they had to put 25% of pay into investments, 25% into a house and 8% into a car (gross income) leaving them with only 43% of their pay for all their other expenses and whatever else they wanted they would quickly realize that would mean. $833 on a house a month, $833 into investments a month, $267 into a car a month and after taxes that would only leave them with $1120 a month for literally everything else. That wouldn't really work for them.

If I said the same thing to someone making $400k a year I'd basically be telling them they would have to live on only $11,200 a month at which point well yeah no problem.

Its not the same thing. That doesn't make Money Guys wrong, they are trying to give advice to a broad group of people whose incomes range all over the place...but that advice only actually fits the mean income, everyone else its going to be a bit off and further out its going to be really really off. So don't follow it blindly, if it seems off to you...its probably just off.

I mean if I tell you the percentages my budget breaks down to I bet you would have a pretty good guess at what my income is if you think about it.

I'm 14% housing, 2% car, 40% investment leaving about 44% of gross left over (which of course the net would be after tax)

Do the math, if the 14% from the bank amortized over the 12 months is less than the fee offered for transfer then it’s a win.

My dad has been bringing it there because it was bought there. I drive a different car now. Based on the state of my car now according to them, it's in worse condition then when it was brought in the day before. Are they allowed to break my car for free? The initial repair was $660 and now it's $3000 after 10 miles? Does that make any sense?

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