That is exactly what I said. What do you call getting fewer raises and less beneficial?

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Depending on property value drive by valuation as per banks (just had one done for an investment property) is good for about 20-25% bandwidth. Or rather it becomes an option if you are putting that amount down and the house is still standing.

So suffice to say it could be a huge range. Frankly if you want to do it right but not cause issues you could offer to pay for a real appraisal (about $500) and then you’d have good numbers to work with.

Um, why? I’m not sure why you’d buy one then use it 2 minutes later.

Get two cards with 0 foreign transaction fees. If one is lost or stolen you will have a back-up.

A lot of people love them but I never saw the need for an airline card for the occassional traveler.

Controversial opinion, instead of working another job get a AA in Business Administration (that is just what the degree is called it is not specific to being a business admin lol). Talk to your local community college and see if there are any local universities with a transfer agreement.

Community college isn't free, but is it very affordable and depending on your families current financial situation could be free after government grants, key word here is grant not loan. Grants, like FSEOG, Pell, and potentially any grants your state offers essentially cover the cost of tuition and potentially books.

Also, best case scenario: you enjoy what you are studying/learning about the business world, you knock it out of the park with your grades, and qualify for some merit based scholarship/grants. There are tons to help people transition from community college to a 4 year university.

At the end of the day, getting another job after already working 40 hours a week will get you money today but probably wont help you increase your future earnings.

The Points Guy Best Credit Cards as of Nov 2022

Read through above as decide what works best for your situation.

So you’re current job increased your pay to basically the same as your new/potential company assuming you work 2080 hours a year? I’d think with OT you’d potentially far exceed what you’ve been offered from the new gig. Is there opportunity to grow at your current company? If you’re used to hourly pay with OT, salary might always seem like a much bigger number, but when you divide it by hours work it can be painful

My city has recreation centers with competitive memberships.

You definitely want a credit card overseas for emergencies and other use cases. Does it need to be with an airline? Nope. What is a good credit card depends on your spending habits and how much you spend. I prefer the platinum but it’s ease of use and I put a fortune through my cards for the points.

Nerdwallet and some of those sites can help point you towards some cards based off categories but everybody’s “best” card is going to vary due to spending habits, and volume of spend.

They may not say it, but it's quite obvious that essentials (housing, grocery, utilities, insurance, health care, etc.) take up a larger percentage of the income of someone at the median than of someone in the top 10%. It's also quite obvious that if you are supporting 4 people vs. 1, essentials will take up a much larger share of your income. It seems to me a lot of these gurus assume everyone is childless and making 6 figures.

The interest is prorated by days late after 45 days. So you reach 7% at about 14 months, assuming they dont lower the rate next October.

(find should have been fund)

Do you have an ira? Every dollar you contribute up to the maximum comes right off your taxable income. So if you make 50,000 and contribute 5000 to your IRA, the IRS would act as if you only made 45000. It lowers your taxes.

I use YNAB, and have savings accounts for home maintenance. I contribute to it each month, and then when I have an expense in the home maintenance category, I categorize it as outgoing from that category. Another way to think about it might be a sub account in a way that rolls up further into your budget.

I think they anticipate that it will be complicated and want to make sure you either have ready or know where to get all of the documentation now versus at the filing deadline.

It does end up being more billable hours but if it makes rhe actual return go smoother and get filed on time I would probably be ok with it. If you work with the same cpa over and over I wouldn't want to do it every year though once both sides know what yo expect.

Awesome, thank you.

> I assume this is the origin of the mistake?

Yeah, sounds like it.

So yeah, just start with 2018 and put the basis to $0. This $0 cascades forward. April 2020 was the first year 1040-X could be electronically filed so this might not be that bad.

It's probably not a huge risk to just keep it correct going forward. Outside of an audit, no one will care if past 8606's are wrong, and if you do get audited, you have the facts on your side.

If it were me, and I could do it all electronically, I'd pour a glass of wine and spend half an hour submitting 1040-X's. If I couldn't do it electronically, I probably wouldn't bother.

Yes, they will all reverse in time, after none of the charges clear.

Personally I would just include this with whatever your cash management plan, emergency fund, and investment plan you have.

I generally do not favor separate accounts by purpose. Leads to lower returns and poor cash management and asset allocation. Not saying no but my preference.

My motto is place money by asset type not by purpose.

Yes

Sorry if I'm ignorant here, but I don't know what this means.

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I already have a 401k and max it out.

I get what you are saying, the debt is known as principal and that's debt amortization, all pretty standard stuff. I would disagree though that that's a good reason for waiting in the long run if you do the math. You are right if you were only refing for a small rate drop though.