Recent comments in /f/personalfinance

lolskrub8 t1_iyemdmd wrote

Start building up passive streams of income. You should keep a safety net anywhere from 3 months to a year of income (I’m sure you can find more concrete values on this sub) and everything else should be invested into some sort of passive income earner for retirement. I’d personally recommend starting an investment account. Unfortunately you don’t have a lot of time for the interest to start accruing, but it sounds like you have a good amount saved already so congrats on that!

Honestly it sounds like you could use a financial advisor. There’s a special type you want to get, called a fiduciary, which long story short essentially means companies can’t pay them to push certain brands, so they act solely in your best interest. Don’t take the advice of random strangers on the internet too seriously, 100% your best course of action is speaking to a professional.

I would ask them about IRAs, investment opportunities, and how to manage your savings to effectively prepare for retirement. Best of luck!

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Buttercoins OP t1_iyemagl wrote

I understand it's a bad position to be in. But, look at it from a spirit of the law perspective: he was using it as a retirement account. He did not draw from the initial gain to his checking account (just as if it had been a retirement account). I know the solution isn't straightforward, I suppose what I'm looking for is the best way to approach the IRS to negotiate this, because the guy is getting screwed and will be quite destitute if he has to liquidate his account to cover the tax implications of one trade.

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thesleazye t1_iyem82p wrote

Reply to comment by rnelsonee in 403b question for a new job by [deleted]

I’m not a financial advisor and I agree with the notion of the commission angle. I used to sell whole life, ages ago, and it is a useful option due to the nature of it; however, it becomes very expensive later in life and it’s not touchable until retirement. I’m 15 years out of insurance, so I don’t know if an underwriter offers a whole life that “acts like a 40XY”, but that’s not the main purpose of the product. I typically sold term because it’s an easier product to sell - the expense of WL is somewhat sales prohibitive unless you have an income and strategy that takes advantage of it.

Disability insurance is great to have, but it’s a protective plan: not an investment plan.

Also agree that the match is okay, but if you’re not staying longer than the vesting period meh. Maybe you get access to low fee plans from the employer and that’s better than the alternative (nothing or IRAs). Check the fund offerings and how much fees are compared to your Roth IRA.

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nolesrule t1_iyem5dr wrote

If you are converting every year and leaving nothing in the account, the carryover basis should be zero. If that was the case that there was zero in the account on Dec 31, 2021, I'd just proceed with a fresh 8606 for 2022 and not worry about past years.

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Hemidodge426 OP t1_iyem4ie wrote

I don't think they have ever said that the rules they have set apply to X income and up. Regardless though, I do think the advice they give is "aspirational" like another comment has said, not necessarily that if you don't do that exactly you are going to fail. I feel like I make a decent income at 110k in a relatively lower cost of living area, I just am having a hard time penciling out how to follow their advice and not be a miser at the same time. Maybe as a single person I'm not seeing the same kind of deductions that a married couple would be granted. I don't know.

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TheDemonsTalk t1_iyem47s wrote

Yeah you can refi but I wouldn't suggest doing a refi right away. Wait at least 10-15 years and make sure it makes sense and don't get trapped in further debt. I suggest checking a YouTube video on how refinancing works before proceeding.

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grinch1225 t1_iyelwna wrote

Using life insurance as a vehicle to have tax free income in retirement isn’t a red flag

The fact that they recommended “whole life” is a red flag. These have the lowest returns compared to indexed life (pegged to say S&P) and variable life which allows sub accounts for market investment

VUL’s (variable universal life) is exceptionally popular with my clients who want to save aggressively for early retirement. I’ve opened up 3 this week alone.

I would definitely recommend Roth be your investment of choice if not interested in life policies with investment options, as Roth money will be tax free when you do retire. And yes, that match is absolutely terrible.

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Scr0bD0b OP t1_iyelqnw wrote

I get this:

> We can't complete this request. This offer isn't available at this time. We're sorry for the inconvenience. Make sure you keep your income up-to-date to be considered for future offers.

Maybe not enough history or something... My previous card was almost twice what this card was, but I had closed the other one then opened this one, so perhaps not enough gap to show potential, available credit worthiness

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imperfectably t1_iyelm5o wrote

I’m probably closer. Where does he live?

In all seriousness, play his game as another commenter said. I have a similar family member (though they have no money to begin with) but my argument to them is banks can fail hit government won’t let that happen - see 2008 bailouts. Maybe you could do something similar.

If nothing else, next time you go visit, rent a small truck and get him the highest rated fireproof safe you can and help him install it. Renting the truck means no delivery people know. You buying the safe means no one with your information can easily connect the dots back to your dad. The only worry then is people seeing you unload it and you might be able to solve that with a used box from a furniture store or home improvement dumpster.

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