OP says that their expenses are 12k or 17k (I’m assuming a year) so their expenses per month is roughly 1000-1400 (I don’t know how but that’s the data they’re providing).

That’s the only reason why I said that with this data it sounds like they could save that.

You may find these links helpful:

• "How to handle $"
• Investing

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

>If I completely cash out both, I'd lose ~$1300 in surrender charges and have ~$16K.

Are you sure?

RIRA basis is yours tax/penalty free. Earnings will be taxed as ordinary income plus a 10% gross penalty.

TIRA will be 10% on all distributions plus it's taxed as ordinary income.

Your math on the $1300 sounds like you've got hte 10% penalty from RIRA earnings and the whole TIRA distribution. You arne't considering the tax portion (which is going to be larger).

You may find these links helpful:

• Student Loans
• Student Debt Relief Megathread
• "How to handle $"
• Debt

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

And inflation is hitting the insurance industry especially hard, when combined with continued chip shortages. Parts are more expensive/harder to acquire, labor is more expensive, and it’s more expensive to replace a car because retail used car prices remain high.

If the estate went through probate (assuming all protocols were followed) and you didn't cosign then you shouldn't be on the hook for anything. I would politely tell them the estate is closed and if they have further questions they can contact the court. The court will have all your filings for notifications and such, so they'll be able to see they missed out on being able to collect. There's a limited window for creditors to come collect money for this very reason.

People who accept counters are just giving the company time to hire a replacement for the flight risk. Go after the salary and get the inevitable promotions with even higher salaries at the new company as you demonstrate value.

Thank you! I appreciate it!

I recommend checking out Street Easy.com to get a realistic sense of what apartments cost in NYC. $500k might buy a studio, but $400/mo for HOA is unrealistically low; you'd have to double or triple it. https://streeteasy.com/

I think the better thing to do is to ask if they give you a comp day when you do weekends. tuesday-saturday isnt a bad thing for some people. Working m-sat plus tons of overtime would probably lead to burnout. Job 2 seems to be doing more for burnout like offering wfh, so theres probably better work life balance there.

Holy cow, TIL I guess. I always thought contribution limits were inclusive of company match contributions.

Guess I need to read up!

split the difference. fund half of both and fund the rest over the year.

I would say no- choose the best work environment. The job that will lead to the most long term happiness. Much more important than an extra 10k a year.

I would give up 100k a year for a job where I wasn’t stressed out all the time and could take sick days and vacation whenever I wanted.

CEO - Jim Davis

Corporate Headquarters

Quest Diagnostics

500 Plaza Drive

Secaucus, NJ 07094

​

Send a certified letter with your documentation, including the timeline of your communications with Quest. Let him know that if the matter is not resolved to your satisfaction within 30 days:

• You will contact your state's attorney general and regulators to report Quest for medical billing fraud.
• If it is less than your state's maximum for small claims court (for instance Ohio is 6k) you will be filing a claim in your local small claims court OR (if more than the small claims limit) you will be retaining an attorney to pursue the reimbursement and reasonable compensation for the time you spent.

If their take home is $60k, that means only $5k per month to cover all of their expenses, while also having enough left over to save. I don't see OP saving $200k or even half that in 4 to 5 years as the math simply does not work.

It is technically a promotion what they offered.

Home and auto insurance are quiet killers in the inflation paradigm right now, and while changing carriers every 2-3 years has always been the best personal finance advice, I don't think you're going to be able to dodge this one for 2 reasons. 1) ALL insurers are doing it so in a way, "there's no escape". 2) Insurers are having to underwrite to an economy of inflation, which means replacing and repairing are more expensive to their bottom line - expenses they aren't going to eat. I'd suggest shopping it every 6 mos - 1 year (what I'm doing) in order to find new customer incentives and introductory lower rates. Unfortunately, once you get away from Geico and the other biggies, the rates aren't all that better, usually worse.

Losses in 2022 can't offset the taxes on gains in 2021. This is not a good position to be in. I'm sorry. Ask the CPA if an offer in compromise might be an option.

You may find these links helpful:

• General Information on Rollovers
• 401(k) Fund Selection Guide
• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

I really enjoyed the quality of life in the RTP area in NC

Florida auto insurance rates are something like 60% higher than the national average because of no fault laws and rampant abuse of medical cost coverage based on laws. Outside of shopping around there's not much to be done.

It's pretty common for a teaser rate to get folks in the door and then hit them with 20% because insurers know that most folks won't shop around every 6 months.

Did they increase your rate to $1150 a month or $1150 per six months? If they’re increasing from around $150 a month to $1150, that’s probably a mistake.

Assuming $1150 every six months: Car insurance costs have been going up sharply and yours isn’t out of line with others. You can shop around to see if you can get a better deal, but there’s no negotiating and no cap to increases, so long as the insurer’s plan is approved by the appropriate insurance commissioner (and you can expect that any increase would be, especially by a major National insurer). If others charge the same amount or more, that’s your new rate. Keep looking every few months.

>I thought under the law they have to remove it, when asked, when at 80%.

Based on the original value of the home, not based on the current value. There is no law requiring lenders to take into account appreciation since the loan originated.

https://www.consumerfinance.gov/ask-cfpb/when-can-i-remove-private-mortgage-insurance-pmi-from-my-loan-en-202/

>You can ask to cancel PMI earlier if you have made additional payments that reduce the principal balance of your mortgage to 80 percent of the original value of your home. For this purpose, “original value” generally means either the contract sales price or the appraised value of your home at the time you purchased it, whichever is lower (or, if you have refinanced, the appraised value at the time you refinanced).

Emphasis mine.

[removed]

Never accept a counter offer. The only exception is if they offer you a new position with higher pay, i.e. a promotion. Then you can consider it.

If it’s just more money, decline. They should have valued you properly to begin with, and not wait until you get a different offer.