You've done awesomely, and have a lot wrapped up in the market already. I'd diversify again, and pick up a turnkey rental, or become an lp in syndication somewhere.

As you own it outright, yes, it's common to use that to get a HELOC to have enough cash to buy a new home, and then sell your current home. It can be complicated to accurately time everything to line up perfectly so you're under contract and the buyer of your home is closing while you yourself are closing on your new home.

The only risk would be that you need to keep your DTI in check, as you'll be evaluated for your ability to pay your new mortgage with the monthly payment due on the HELOC, regardless if you'll immediately pay it off with the proceeds of the home sale.

> 'm almost certain beyond a doubt that they legally can't force you to use any financing from them

And what would lead you to believe this?

Dealers can definitely mandate that they use their own financing, as long as the financing does not fall afoul of any kind of discrimination (IE, credit has to be extended in a way that is not discriminatory) or usury laws in the state and municipality in which they're operating.

Mine considers if it's been titled it is no longer new.

That's not true at all - people make plenty of money buying a top as long as they have investment horizons that take them to the next one...

That’s not how this works….that’s not how any of this works….

And remember each financing bank is gonna have its cut in fees to process the loan.

Go elsewhere, unless they're borderline giving you the car for free

I don't get a ton of pleasure out of spending. I'm very frugal and it suits me just fine. I have pretty much met my short term financial goals and think I'm on track to retire relatively young, but I am still very frugal because I think it will serve me better in the long run. Maybe I'll retire earlier or maybe I'll do something else with it, but for now it's rather continue to save for whatever opportunities I find in the future, rather than spend it on things I can do without. I don't have any kids to leave it to, though, so who knows maybe I'll die full of regret.

True, but some banks consider the first 30 or 60 days to be effectively new.

When are you planning on retiring? If your answer is not soon then who gives a hoot what happens with the market. Time in the market beats timing the market. Also make sure your contribution is uniform over the year so you take advantage of your employers match. So do the math and see what you need to contribute over the whole year to max it out if your not already doing so.

We haven't been in a recession in nearly 3 years - we may be in one later this year though.

I’m going to be blatantly honest. This would be the dumbest thing you could possibly do

I mean regardless of what car I get insurance is bound to be high because of the state I’m in. If I get a used car surprisingly insurance is more higher than if i lease a new vehicle

Check out Boggleheads and the 3-fund portfolio for what specifically to invest in.

Personally, being in a very similar spot to you, we are not paying early. Instead, we put as much as we are comfortable with into the market and the rest into T-bills and I-bonds.

Also, note that you are comparing your 4% return at 6 years to the total mortgage term (30 years?). You clearly make more money at 4% rates than at 3% costs. The issue is that the 4% isn't guaranteed and the 3% is.

As well, if you have to borrow to pay something, it's hurting someone else who could have gotten me for their money, but they gave it to you instead. So if you want to borrow to pay it off, at least give them the rates they could have earned by putting it into a HYSA or T-bill, etc instead.

Finally, don't forget that insurance and taxes still get paid when the mortgage is done.

• #1 and #5: https://www.whitecoatinvestor.com/fix-backdoor-roth-ira-screw-ups/

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Stemming question from OP’s question: Is VTSAX basically the same asset allocation as the target retirement funds but without the bonds? I too intend to receive a pension and fund a 457 plan, so I’d like my Roth to be more aggressive if possible and simply ride the waves. Thank you in advance.

Start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

Budgeting: https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/budgeting

Don't do anything crazy until you sign a contract saying you're hired. I would try to negotiate starting remote with intent to relocate within 60 days of start date. From there, you can try to get your relocation fee on your first paycheck and move quickly.

Alternatively, look up everyone and anyone that you know/have known and see if they're in or near NYC. Ask to crash with them until you find a place and say you can pay them for the inconvenience (use salary as confirmation/find alternative collateral).

Early termination would generally be taken out of deposit/last month rent. You can also try to negotiate with your landlord if you're on good terms with them.

Again. Do NOT do anything until the job is secured. Recruiters are generally just middlemen - negotiate directly with the employer/manager.

Yes those two statements are conflicting, but the second wasn't said by the recruiter. So I'm going off their statement, which I take to mean OP would just need to move up and start going to the office within 60 days of starting.

Stocks don't go on sale - you can only know in retrospect whether now is an 'excellent time' to buy stocks or whether it will turn out to have been a bad one.

Said,also that they assume start date is in person. If it's work at the office, how do you start if you are out of town for 2 months?

We don’t have a 401k unfortunately. We have a profit sharing plan and it sucks. As far as a Roth IRA I’m not necessarily trying to put a big chunk of my money towards retirement at 37 years old. There are still plenty of things we need the money for along the way. I’m definitely going to try to learn more about investments though

Things being in the red means it would have been wise to have moved out of stocks (which you can do within a 401k - don't know why anyone would advise you not to use tax-advantaged space because of one asset classes performance) before they went down. Of course you didn't get that advice before they went down so not much you can do about that now. As for what happens next, well I assure you the person giving you advice hasn't a clue.