It’s meant to be a simple hobby, like a part-time job.

However I do hope to turn it into a business one day.

Anymore info I should know?

So I shouldn’t use my card more often and pay it off more often to help boost it? There was a point in time where I didn’t use the card for months but unfortunately let the balance sit which was a killer. Also to mention I already work 40 hrs and am not allowed to receive OT. I’ve considered a part time job until I get hired permanently, but I already have limited time as it is :/

How long have you used them? No issues with deposits/withdrawals? Is there any yearly fees?

I would avoid Citi anything - they freeze accounts and withhold money, and they constantly lock me out of my online view for my credit card. I finally gave up and am cancelling the card. irreputable dirtbags.

I'm happy with my CapitalOne card.

You make a million dollars a year

Buy whatever fits in your budget.

I read somewhere that you need to file something down even if it’s your first year-

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This all hinges on probabilities, and only you can really be the judge of that. Your statement "Of course the bonus is never guaranteed" is doing a lot of heavy lifting here. How much you factor that bonus income in depends on how likely you think it is that you'll actually not get a bonus in any given year.

You don't want to be in a situation where one down year causes you to lose your house, so you need to structure things so that won't happen. Maybe that means you have a certain amount set aside in liquid accounts so that you can pay a year (or even two) of mortgage if you don't get a bonus.

A relevant question here: how much do you actually want to spend on a house? Are you just trying to spend as much as humanly possible, or do you have a target in mind? Because there's no point in spending a lot of time and energy figuring out your exact limit if you're not going to come close to that. It seems like you could easily put aside a year or two of mortgage on a really nice house and then never have to worry (about this, at least).

Age in bonds is an old-fashioned rule, though it may be coming back into fashion if these interest rates keep climbing and level off.

Any other details I need to know about?

I used the rule of 55 after I retired, wasn't working, but I was never asked about my employment status. Based on how different providers handle distributions, someone else might have different rules.

Descendants of the owners have rights of ownership, regardless of who paid. As lo g as the name is on the deed everybody has rights. Unless, the will is explicit on what to do with the properties. If you want to go in business with family the best way would be to talk with a lawyer. This situation will not end well for any party involved.

I think all of you need to sit down now and discuss. Ask the sister in law if she is willing to split expenses and have claim to the house and any inheritance. I am sure she will say no.

Also, talk to an attorney because if you're in laws end up with huge medical bills, how will that affect you, etc.

Thanks that’s what I thought originally.

Growing ~4% isn't nothing and it's a hell of a lot better than putting this into the market and potentially not having it next year when you need it.

HYSA, money market funds, CDs are your options

You'll get your money back, to process just takes a bit of time and it stinks because it is your bank acct that was depleted. It just takes some time.

Once you file a dispute and say why your bank is going to issue you a new card.

>Vanguard Target Funds have *way* less than your age in bonds

Cause "your age in bonds" is a way to simplify it for people doing it themselves.

Target funds will not increase their bond allocation so linearly. You're young, you don't want your funds tied up in bonds. Hell, many people recommend identifying the correct target date fund for your retirement, and then adding another 10 years to it to keep it from overallocating bonds too quickly.

As soon as you call insurance it opens a claim whether you use it or not. 3 claims in a year and you are sent to a high risk insurer for triple the cost. They are for disasters, not wear and tear.

I'm using fidelity...but at that rate I'd make about 5% after compounding on a 30day note which doesn't seem unreasonable. Thank you!

Okay, 1: stop being fearful of not having a good credit score - holy hell. Also stop “trying” to use more of your credit line to boost your score. Focus on 1: getting your full time job 2: work more or a second job if you want more money and just budget. Everything else will fall in line.

The only thing that fixes this is paying the debt and time.

It's not that much debt, certainly not enough for the stress you describe.

Cut your losses. Look at the bright side, you have 10k!

I think that difference is going to be different for everyone. To plug a pf podcast I listen to; “How to Money” always tries to focus on the why behind your money. To try to figure out what your joys and goals in life are and then make your financial situation work towards that. So one person shouldn’t buy a fancy car just because they can afford the payment. But another person might justify a car that stretches their budget because cars and driving give them a lot of joy. Some people are super into FIRE and will live like paupers for 15 years in order to retire at 35. Some people enjoy their jobs a lot and don’t mind working until their 75.

Figure out how much money you need to live (housing, food, not having to work til your dead), then figure out how much it costs to live the life you want (travel, early retirement, new gadgets) and make those two work within your budget.

I have also seen people tout budgets as not just a tool for the financially irresponsible, but also for those who feel guilt around spending (which sound like it might be you). If you have a line item for concert tickets, then you don’t have to feel bad about buying that pricy concert ticket instead of investing in an already plump retirement fund. You’ve already planned for the expense so it’s okay to spend it.

I'd consider certified pre-owned over brand new, often times you're paying a lot more for something whose resale value plummets the minute you pull off the lot.

>Should the company have cut separate checks for severance and leave encashment? I believe the severance and leave encashment are being recognized as bonuses and taxed accordingly.

They can do that, or they can lump them together. It's their choice. Lumping them together benefits you in that while you pay extra taxes now, you won't end up owing taxes.

This happens with bonuses too. It's annoying, but you'll get some of it back when you file your taxes. You have no options here.