My wife has an account linked to her mom and before she would ask for money as she could see what was coming into it and how much it had. I moved my wife’s direct deposit over to my account and left that one sitting at a low amount for years with no transaction in or out. She’s in debt but hasnt asked for any money since.

What you’re not getting is that the taxes they took out are not permanent: you can get them back if you do the rollover for the original amount. If you don’t, then you’ll owe taxes on the part that’s missing - ie, the amount they took out to withhold. The amount you’ll owe is less than what they withheld, so you’ll still get some back, but not all.

If the original total was 1000, and they withheld 200, and you deposit 1000 into an IRA or 401k, then you’ll get 200 back from your regular tax return next year.

If you deposit 800 into an IRA or 401k, then you’ll owe (200*30%) or thereabouts, so $60, and get back 140 in your tax return next year. But that’s $60 less than you would otherwise get back.

Does the fact that I can’t put 20% down increases the lending interest rates? This is a conventional loan.

Disconnect and change banks in case she sweet talks someone at the Bank into fixing the connection as she likely has your SS info. Don't warn her beforehand or she might empty the account

Adding: if your new bank has Zell you can always transfer money that way if you deem it necessary to help them out

You want the market to suck real bad until the day you retire. Bad markets = cheaper stocks.

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1. AutoTrader is a classifieds site. Just like a newspaper, anyone can pay and post a listing of a vehicle for sale. How trustworthy is dependent on the poster, not the platform.

2. Google: "auto insurance broker near me." Explain your insurance needs and they will try to help you out. At the end of the day, you may or may not have an option as to how much you pay.

3. You 99.999% will not find an above board lender to finance 5k for a 14 yr old car.

4. You have to get a job in addition to your grad school duties to afford a car.

Sorry, I don’t have answers to all the questions now. I’ll check with the lender.

401k loan interest is 7.5%. Currently, the conventional loan interest rates are above 7%. My interest rate lock will happen around mid March. The property is in Dallas where property prices have gone up 200% in the 2-3years, so I don’t expect any appreciation after purchasing the property.

I have this exact same car.

The price for the sensor repair is a rip off. You’re getting reamed if you pay that. I had mine replaced for $300, which is probably still too much.

The back handle dry rots easy, it wasn’t broken into.

You hardly drive, you need to just get it fixed

I know :(

There is literally nothing in this area below $300k unfortunately.

People gave their advice here. I gave mine on the original post.

Please don’t take any offense to this, but it sounds you are in over your head. And that is fine. We all have to learn and this type of thing can be overwhelming.

Given this I would get in contact with the institution that is managing your Roth IRA. If you want to go with someone else I suggest Fidelity or Vanguard.

The rep should be able to guide and educate you in your options on how to rollover your funds. Also in particular how to recover your withheld taxes. They are equipped to do this since it is their profession. Much of it will just be what many of us are sharing. But talking to a person over the phone and having them be your side to have a shorter feedback loop can be what you need to get this done confidently.

Financing a 14 year old car at 9% for 3 years is not a good idea.

Thank you! This is really helpful advice

Health insurance, life insurance

Usually they would be co-owners, meaning the money is legally theirs as well. If they ever go bankrupt or owe the IRS money, it could cause you a headache trying to prove the assets are yours alone.

> 70/30 VTIAX/VTIAX

VTSAX/VTIAX?

Ooh, I have a reason! I had a savings account started before I was 18, so both my parents’ names are also on it. Since it’s a CD, when I tried to get their names off it, with their consent, they said I’d have to wait until the period was over; so I didn’t close the account. Then, bc my dad’s owned business was/is being sued, the opposing lawyer froze my account as being part of my dad’s personal assets. Even though he only touched it once, almost 10 yrs ago when I “loaned” them money to close on their house.

At the time I was living off savings having quit my job due to mental health and burnout issues. Had to jump back in too fast and still ended up in the negative for a week between paychecks. I basically consider that money gone now. Not as much as others have or have lost, but still, it was my safety net disappearing exactly when I needed it.

Yeah, this is a no brainer, if you don't drive more thank 2k a year why take on debt or waste your money. You probably don't even need a car as some have mentioned, but obviously depending on where you live or what you do I'm sure it's nice to have.

Wheel speed sensor should not cost $900. For as infrequently as you drive it I probably wouldn't worry about though it does disable your abs so factor that into your safety or usage equation. Worn tires can also cause vibration, so I'd say tires and an alignment should fix your vibration issue.

I dunno how bad the engjnes reliability is, but keep the oil changed regularly, every 6 months or so regardless of mileage and run it regularly and it should last. Just take the money you would spend on a new car now and invest it so when/if the engine goes you can just dump this car and move on if you need to.

I'd look into selling it and doing short term rentals or turo or other car sharing services. I assume you live in a city with such low mileage, so between depreciation, insurance, possible parking costs, registration/taxes, it seems like you could just borrow cars and save money long term.

Financially, it makes more sense to attack the loan with the highest interest rate first. In your case, this is also the loan with the highest balance. If you are a disciplined person, that's the loan you should first pay down with every available dollar you can spare--this will save you the greatest amount of money (in interest).

Psychologically, it can be more helpful to attack the loan with the smallest balance first. In your case, this is the loan with the lowest interest rate. If you lack discipline and/or need motivation to eliminate all your debts, seeing one loan balance finally drop to zero can give you a significant emotional boost to keep going and attack another loan balance in kind. For some people--particularly those with many outstanding debts--this mental edge is what keeps them going until all their debts are finally paid in full.

So, which loan should you attack first? Well, how disciplined are you?

Just open a new account. Tell your parents you are in the process of combining finances with your new bf instead of saying it's to get them out of your account. This way they will take less offense. I would open the new account at a different bank to avoid the bank accidentally linking the new account to your parents or your parents sweet talking the bank into doing it behind your back, also a new bank gives you an excuse to not link it by claiming it's too difficult.

you want to take on a new car with higher monthly payments (also higher other costs like insurance) instead of just paying to fix and maintain the current one?

>I also have never gotten new tires or a tune up on this vehicle since I bought it (they barely pass inspection atm). The trunk also got broken into at one point so all the rubber is shredded at the handle. The only other notable thing about the car is it only has 38k miles on it. I drive less than 2k a year and 90% of those miles are going 70mph or over.

you neglect your current car and wonder why it is not good and your solution is to take on a new car and spend more money than just fixing your current one?

just trying to provide some perspective. You can spend a few thousand now getting your car in better shape or way more on a new car that you might also just let go to shit?

you are thinking in terms of monthly payments and not in terms of total cost. that is how most people in trouble financially especially with cars.

Open up a bank account somewhere else - credit union is preferable. Then close your account. They could take all of the money out of your account tomorrow and you would not be able to get a penny back.

Aside from the advice on the bank account stuff, I would also set a budget. You will put $XX towards helping your parents every month and no more. If they don't use that amount it can roll over into next month and grow until they need it.

Money and family are a difficult mix, but especially if you're planning to start your own family, you need to put boundaries in place.

It will be hard and you will be tempted (parental blackmail and guilt trips are powerful) to break your rules. But you need to transition from just being their daughter (what's yours is theirs) to being a relative with your own family. Does your Mom ask her siblings or other relatives for money?

Remember; you're not cutting them off, you still love and want to help them, but you need to set boundaries.

Your mom is stealing from you. FULL STOP. Taking money from your account and 'asking' after the fact is still theft. Move your money. Close the account. Get your stuff out of their house and get your own cellphone plan. It's time.

Snowballing (assuming a mininum payment of $235 on the SL and $400 on the PL + an additional $500/mo) would result in a total interest paid of $9,037

Avalanche method of paying highest interest first would mean $3,968 would be paid in interest.