I love the flowchart! Here's the wiki page with more context and information.

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Follow the flowchart.

My generic advice:

https://i.imgur.com/lSoUQr2.png

Here is the flowchart from the r/personalfinance subreddit’s Prime Directive. If you follow that, you will be ahead of almost all of your peers.

Stop by the sidebar to see the Common Topics, which include basic money handling and investing.

You don’t need to talk to anyone or buy some random book to do this. You have all the tools right here.

You should call them and see how they operate. But yes, essentially you're buying with cash.

Perhaps this is an NSO. The documentation online had info about both ISO and NSO. Maybe because some other employees had ISOs? This is probably just my inexperience with the topic. Thank you for the help.

> googled

Don't google. Call (and I mean that, call). States and banks have different requirements for branding the title and authorizing the purchase, including presentation of a purchase order or submission of a VIN.

I see. I’m so I’m basically buying the car with “cash” at the dealership, right? I contacted the dealer and they said their lowest rate now is 6.99%. But at the credit union, I can likely get ~3% (less than $20k loan for 36 months). I doubt the dealer can beat this.

But they’re a smaller bank with no brick and mortar locations. Not sure how fast they can get a check out to me…

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I was thinking to live in, but I guess I could invest in a vacation condo. Mostly where I want to vacation is international or also in high COL areas.

Ok, if no match, then move on to the next bullet in that order.

Never finance an engagement ring

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ISOs do not work like that, either you are talking about something else (like an NSO) or you and your employer messed up badly.

Consolidate your debt. Yes your credit score might go down for the first 3-6 months, but after settlements have been reached with the creditor, you'll have an estimated debt reduction of 50%.

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Not to mention, you pay once a month, versus to 3 different cards, which makes it more manageable.

ebay is really stingy with order history

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This is my take on it as well (further color added in a separate comment thread).

I think people tend to misunderstand the employer "direct contribution" because (at least in my experience) it seems rare that employers actually do that. Employers directly contributing PLUS offering a match seems like a nice plan.

No brainer to pay off the cards, just focus on making the changes necessary so that you don't run up the balances again.

They are all separate accounts

Thank you, I’m trying to get as much as possible. Unfortunately my company doesn’t offer a match yet

Yes I rolled a previous job 401k into the fidelity account. They sent me a check and I opened the account on fidelity with it. Then it sat without positions for a couple years before a random comment on here helped me realize my mistake. For my purposes though there isn’t anything wrong with having both a traditional and a Roth?

Pay it off, then it will be easier to build up savings for a house with no payments slowing you down.

Start paying off the highest interest first, then the next highest, then the last card. What are the rates?

If you're paying interest at 25%, that is an emergency, and if you have an emergency fund, I would use it to pay off debt and then rebuild the emergency fund.

What’s the rate you’re being charged on the debt and what’s the rate you’re getting on your savings? If the rate on the debt is higher, pay it off.

If you have enough cash to cover 180 in interest income at around 4% to balance the probable 20+% the CC is growing at, then you have more than enough to pay it off today. So do that.