You can definitely get more than what CarMax will give you, but it requires a little work. There are different websites/firms (Google "sell my car online") that will get you more than Carmax and Carvana. I very recently worked with Give Me The Vin and AlphaBid and both got me around $1500 more than Carvana (which was $4K more than CarMax).

Well...i get what you mean but you dont actually get the yield until it pays out after 4 months.

You didnt pay 5k. How much did you actually pay. Also 4.35% is annualized. For a 4 month tbill you would have earnws 4.35%/3 or 1.45%. So...you likely paid about $4927 for your 5k tbill...check your bank.

Not in the USA.

Certainly does thank you!

Have a different interview on monday with a real estate consulting firm! That would honestly be the dream but most places hire with masters degrees so wish me luck.

I see what you’re saying just hard for me to juggle personal finance vs goals considering how niche the field is that I want to do.

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I'm not saying avoid S&P 500. I'm saying to not use S&P 500 only funds, but to use broader funds that cover S&P 500 and more.

S&P 500 works, but for the same exact cost and difficulty, there are better options (US total market). And for only a slightly higher cost (and maybe 1 additional fund), even better than that (going global).

>However, historically, it returns

Like I said, it has worked so far, but it both:

• Ignores the compensated small cap risk factor

• Takes on the uncompensated single country risk factor

I don't see any reason to do either of these.

The S&P 500 has returned 11.88% since 1957. I think the intent of diversification has stayed the course. 66 years of great returns isn't some fluke.

The biggest risk I'd say, is when you plan to retire. As it is volatile, it takes big swings. Many funds down significant amounts right now would be rough if you are looking to retire. However, historically, it returns.

Can you explain "unexpectedly pregnant"? My neighbor wants to know.

I think option one is a better option because it avoid debts and give you time to explore. 23 is very young and so much can change in 2-5 years.

To be a consultant you need a great deal of experience and expertise. You can try Real Estate if you want. Typically all you have to do is take 3 classes and pass one state license test.

At 23 I graduated with $10k in student loans and I was so debt adverse I didn’t wanted to work for free doing practicum a for 2 years in an MSW Program or add $20k more in debt. I got a full time job that would allowed me to save and qualify for a home loan in 2 years. Then I bought my first property at 25.

I am 28 and I think I made the best choice to forgoe a Masters in my field of social work. I make $35/hour in a role that tops out at $46/hour and I didn’t need a Masters. I am a hiring manager and I interviewed Master Degree holders all the time.I might still get one in the future and pay cash for it so I’ll be a better candidate for executive program manager roles that pay $45-$60/hour.

You could probably punch all the numbers into excel to calculate the actual payoff / crossovers.

I.e. how much extra debt accrued vs. the potential upside. You also have to factor in years of experience since while you might have a higher starting salary once you have racked up the extra 30k in debt; the other job you have accumulated 2+ years of experience and might be eligible for a promotion or raise or could switch to another company for the same amount of money.

School is losing money. Work is earning money. You really want to do as little school as possible. Those who can do, do. Those who can't teach

I get it, and it’s tough when you’re on one side of the bridge looking at your options like “I don’t want to mess up! This is the rest of my life!”

But in all reality there are dozens of decisions you can make, and regardless of what you choose, you can always make a different choice if one doesn’t turn out for you. Hell - you can quit your current path, move to Brazil and sell nuts on the freeway, but that’s not a very fun path to pursue compared to the other two you listed 😂

My $0.02 - taking on debt for a bigger paycheck isn’t a terrible idea, just make it the shortest you can make it. You’ll be able to defer loan payments while in school, and afterwards you’ll get paid more which means you can pay down that debt faster. HTH

I'm on my mom's health insurance for another year and a half so I'll only be uninsured, for give or take three months.

That's a positive spin on it, I'm just really restless to get my life started, and I don't want that to be my deciding factor.

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Yeah, of course, and I'm still on my mom's health insurance Until 25. The benefits will also be there with a full-time offer. No 401k would suck for a long time as I want to contribute to that as much as possible early.

you already got the interest the day you successfully put it in… check ur bank account

Do the math over the long term, and see what plays out. You have to take into consideration how comfortable you are with taking on debt (personally I’m debt averse, but some people can absolutely sleep well at night while floating 30% DTI).

The guarantee of a better job due to an internship that pays better than a job that might not lead you to better prospects is attractive in my mind. You can always do your own investing in Roth IRAs etc, and if need be buy your own health insurance (or get it from your college).

Look at your goals, see where your loan payoffs get you vs your career path and what you could be earning because of the degree, and remember there’s literally no bad choice here. It’s all a matter of “which good path do I want to take?”

I'd do option 1. Going much further into debt sounds detrimental for a potential 10k upside. That gets you earning and out of debt faster.

Benefits like healthcare and a 401k will probably be worth almost just as much or more than the extra 5$ an hour or whatever.

I think my current benefits package accounts for an almost 20% increase to my base salary if you viewed it as an aggregate.

Just remember, the days of a Carvana throwing a huge check at every car is over.

If the car is "worth" $50k, I bet a dealership offer you less than $40k. So you'll have to cough up the difference to satisfy the loan.

Might be worth your time to sell it yourself if you can get an extra $10k. Your not really out anything if you try to sell and no one buys, you can always take it to a dealer.

But why use that when for the same costs you can use US total market? Better diversification and gives coverage of a compensated risk factor.

It's splitting hairs, and the S&P500 has just become a "catch all" term for things like total market.

Fidelity's FZROX has a zero expense ratio. I would only own it though in a retirement account.

might want to review the info under "Bills" on the TD.gov site: https://www.treasurydirect.gov/marketable-securities/understanding-pricing/

I was Audited by my State last year and they gave me $15 more back!

Not where I am, there’s a massive car shortage and people are buying up most things on the market!