Yeah, I’m going to try to continue to contact them. Which is such a nightmare. Gonna just have to take a full day sitting on hold.

Get the resume out. There will be overlap. Your tenure with the company may actually work against you since you're more expensive in their eyes.

When this happened to the company I worked for 10 years ago, I was one of the first people to jump ship. Of my 4 close co-workers that stayed behind to stick it out? Their positions were eventually determined to be redundant and eliminated within 3 years of the merger. Chin up; you'll make it through this.

Your payments to the IRS get applied to a specific year's tax bill. You do have a $400 overpayment for 2021, which you should continue to pursue. But that is not something you can factor onto the 2022 return you're doing now.

The only mechanism I'm aware of that's even close to your situation is if you had ended your 2021 return with a refund that you then chose to apply towards your 2022 estimated tax payments. I believe your situation might be able to resolved in a similar way (count that 2021 credit of $400 as a payment for 2022's tax bill), but only after the IRS explicitly acknowledges that you're owed it. Yes, we know you are owed it but paperwork is inevitable and slow. And it feels like it might be too late for that $400 to be applied to your 2022 taxes, and probably isn't something you'd be interested in putting off until 2023's.

Did you get a letter in 2007 stating you loan(s) was Paid in Full?

Sometimes, you pay what you THINK is the correct amount (on the bill) but you need to always get a payoff amount and pay THAT. The payoff amt takes into consideration the Interest and such paid up to THAT DAY. Otherwise, you may have paid the last full bill, but still owe for the accumulating interest and fees and such from the day the bill was calculated up until the time you paid it.

If you got the Paid in Full letter, explain this and hang up.

If you DO NOT HAVE THIS, ask for proof that you owe the money IN WRITING. Full stop. no negotiating no nothing. You get the paper/proof and will review it. Do not give them access to any accounts and do not send them any money until you get this.

You do also want to check with the Uni as to if you still owe as they ought to have records of this. While this is sounding scammy, it MAY be legit if you never paid the entire debt off and received the Paid in Full letter.

PSA: If/when you pay off your debt, you will receive a letter stating such. THIS IS WORTH GOLD. This is your PROOF that you paid them fully. KEEP IT SAFE. Since this type of situation (rightfully or wrongfully) happens all the time. If you have proof you paid them, the collections ppl can go suck on lemons.

source: I've paid off numerous college/car debts.

If you cannot cover his portion, you should contact the landlord and be upfront about the situation. Landlords want a timeline, so have a date that you will have the rest of the rent as well as any applicable late fees. It is really up to the landlord whether or not they will work with you or file an eviction.

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What industry are you in?

Do you have investment restrictions or something that is preventing your from a more DIY approach? Most people don't need an investment advisor at the stage I think you are in.

I second the wiki as linked to by /u/Werewolfdad

Once you get a lender to pull your credit you will have 15 days to shop around without the other hard inquires affecting you. I would say, if you can, have a lender do a soft pull to make sure your ducks are in a row prior to having your credit pulled. Our lender can do that and then he tells us what we can pay down or pay off in order to boost our credit to get better pricing

Because buried deep within the contract that you signed with XYZ Bank is a clause that says if you fail to pay, they're allowed to sell your debt to ABC Collection Agency and they have every right to collect from you.

>So if xyz bank wrote off the loan...why should I be required to pay a company I never entered into an agreement with?

Because the collector bought the loan contract from the bank

An example clause in the credit card agreement:

>WE MAY SELL YOUR ACCOUNT We may at any time, and without notice to you, sell, assign or transfer your account, any amounts due on your account, this Agreement, or our rights or obligations under your account or this Agreement to any person or entity. The person or entity to whom we make any such sale, assignment or transfer shall be entitled to all of our rights and shall assume our obligations under this Agreement, to the extent sold, assigned or transferred.

Do you have enough cash on hand to pay cash? Or are you looking to finance the full amount?

If you only have $1k left over, you don't have room in the budget for much. I live near you (I assume, based on your username) but make about $10k less in take home per month. I bought a new Toyota Highlander Hybrid 2 years ago right before the supply chain issues and interest rates skyrocketed, and my payment is $775/month at 0.9%. Nowadays the same car will cost $5-10k more at 5-6% interest. Add in gas, insurance and maintenance and you've already eaten up your extra $1k.

I would spend a couple months tracking your budget on exactly where the extra $8400/month is going (I know it goes quickly, probably $2-3k on groceries and eating out, $2-3k on furniture/stuff for the house, etc.) and what you are comfortable dialing back on to make a new car fit in the budget.

Ya I would wait to talk to the university directly on this and see. I find it odd this would pop up 16 years later which is over the statute of limitations in most places if it was back from 2007 or earlier.

True! We can't control the life-altering events anyway. All we can do is, assume, everything works out well and invest in an as better way possible.

Are you asking about specifically eactly every two weeks, or did you really mean "twice a month" or "every fifteen days which is about two weeks"?

If you just mean making half the payment twice as often - you are saving a little bit in interest. You know what would save you a little bit MORE in interest? Make your ENTIRE monthly payment half a month early. But in the grand scheme - that is not going to shave off ten years. Making an extra payment (especially EARLY in a 30-year mortgage) will have a bigger impact.

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Get quotes from your bank, other banks, credit unions, and Rocket Mortgage. See who offers the better deal.
Since you're a first time homebuyer it might be best to use the program in your state. If you're not buying rural property it's usually the best option and only requires 3.5% down.
Things to keep in mind when looking at houses:
Sellers will expect you to have "Earnest Money". You give this money to the title company and they hold it in an escrow account. There will be conditions in the contract on how the money is handled but it's usually non-refundable after your inspection is complete.
First time homebuyer programs only require 3.5% down but come with mortgage insurance requirements which can add hundreds to your monthly payment.
USDA loans are similar but with 0% down (they only apply to houses in rural areas).
Your lender will approve you "up to" a certain amount. You will end up taking out only as much as is needed to cover the house with your down payment and earnest money. There's no reason for you or your realtor to tell the seller/their realtor how much you were pre-approved for (they only need to know that you were pre-approved).
Take your time, some realtors will try to push you to close quickly. They want a fast sale more than they want the right sale.
Sellers and their realtors will use shady tactics such as claiming another offer came in after you make an offer to try and get you to bid higher. Don't panic bid and don't get too attached to the prospect of a particular house.
This is your first house, not your forever home.

Do you ever think the current “everyone is a day trader” mentality will go ever go away? Lol

I don’t think I will tbh. We’re not closing until April and I’d honeslty like to take some time off cause of my back

>why should I be required to pay a company I never entered into an agreement with?

Because the purchased the loan from the xyz bank. You can agree not to pay ABC Collection and it would be the same effect as not paying xyz bank.

Any brokerage.

Fidelity, schwab, vanguard, wealthfront, betterment, m1 finance, TD ameritrade, Merril, etc.

Fidelity will probably be easiest.

You can get help at /r/fidelityinvestments

I opened up a Roth IRA and put in a lump sum in dec 2021 (terrible timing, I know), and now I wished I would have done DCA to minimize risk.

All this plus his insurance costs will be huge.

It's up to you. If you think you'll have a new job in the next few months, you can just wait and roll over.

An entire generation grew up with 0% interest rates. Your not going to deprogram them from stonks only go up over night. People were turning 9% I Bonds last year because they only kept up with inflation.