So if I buy a bond for $25, I can't put more money into it. Got it.

Also since the rate of return moves with inflation, if the rate is 6.89% now and then the rate changes to 9% (hypothetically speaking) in May. My bond would receive an interest rate of 9% correct? Just want to make sure I understand how they work.

It's a lot more straightforward when a fraudulent check is cashed that you didn't sign. the issue with check washing is that - your signature stays on the check so it looks like you authorized it.

I had this happen to me a few months ago unfortunately, but I was able to get my money refunded by my bank. I had to file a police report and a bunch of written statements swearing that although that was my signature on the check, that wasn't who I wrote the check to, or the amount it was written for.

From what the bank told me: when a check is cashed, that bank tells my bank to hand over the money to pay the person depositing it. When I filed for fraud, my bank tells the other bank to return the money because that was a bad check. That bank then has to investigate and come to the conclusion that it was in fact fraud, return the money to my bank, which can then return it to me. I was quoted 60-90 days. I had my money back the next day.

Thank you I’m not l trying to panic that’s just a sizable amount of money for someone in my position and age I just wanna make sure my hard earned money was used and applied properly and didn’t just line someone’s pockets as a bonus

Credit Unions differ from other banks in that they are owned by the shareholders (account holders, aka you if you are a member). They don’t report to a corporate overlord that demands a quarterly dividend and good stock performance. So most of the time their costs are low. My experience with big normal banks and CUs is that I get better service at a CU and their loan rates are usually less.

Not all CUs are awesome, but in general they are good.

I’m not sure what you should do but hell would freeze over before I financed anything at that rate.

I recently switched to a credit union and honestly have no clue how regular banks stay in bussiness. Amazing customer service and great interest rates on everything.

>Obviously I know I need my W2 but beyond that every form that arrives is news to me.

What documents are you getting that are a surprise?

1099-INTs shouldn't be a surprise if you have a bank account, 1099-DIV shouldn't be a surprise if you have a brokerage account, same for 5498 if you have an IRA, and 1095 if you have health insurance.

Look at last year's return, what information did you include? (Even better if you save the docs with the PDF of your return.) If nothing changed, assume you'll get the same docs this year.

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>Is there some kind of catch?

No, they're non profits.

That said, their technology may be quite behind the times.

Some banks may be 'worse' due to greed, but some credit unions can be bad due to a lack of proper board or regulatory oversight

You may find these links helpful:

• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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No catch really. CUs tend to have little to no fees and offer far better customer experiences than big banks. They're great for almost everyone. Just watch out for any fees, but you may not see much.

It depends on your activities during the tax year

W2 for jobs

1099-NEC for any contractor work you did

1099-INT if you had bank accounts

1099-B if you sold stocks

1099-R if you rolled over or converted retirement accouns

1099-G if you had a state tax refund (and itemized your taxes the prior year) or received unemployent

W-2 G if you gambled and won

1098 if you paid mortgage interest

1098-T if you paid tuition

1099-DIV if you received taxable dividends

1099-Q if you had 529 distributions

K-1 if you're part of a partnership or S corp or other pass through entity

I'm sure there's a few i'm forgetting

Fidelity should be able to return the excess contribution. I'd follow up with them. But yes, if you don't do anything you'll just pay income tax on the $451 this year, and then be taxed again in retirement.

You can roll over the old 401k to a Roth IRA. That is generally a good idea. The amount you contributed to the Roth 401k is treated as a Roth IRA contribution and you can withdrawal without taxes or penalties at any age.

W2s, 1098-T (if student), any relevant tax statements from your bank, investment firms, brokerages, etc.

As you go through your taxes the software will tell you what form is needed for [thing]. If you think it applies to you, go look for the form in the relevant account you hold.

I just did mine a couple days ago, had to go through 3-4 different accounts gathering everything that I forgot about when I started.

Yep, if the sticker price is $40k … then there is probably $4k in taxes and fees. So, total cost is $44k. With $4k down you finance $40k

That's a helpful link! Appreciate it

Each purchase is its own bond. You can purchase up to $10k per year person.

Understood. Just try not to panic. As everyone is saying, it's highly unlikely that you actually got screwed here (well...not more screwed than a dealership is normally expected to screw, anyway). The "missing" $4,000 is almost certainly various taxes and fees, and possibly some type of warranty. The taxes and fees you can't do anything about, that's a part of buying a car, but if you did sign up for some sort of warranty, you may be able to cancel that.

That’s crazy

That they do. Thanks!

There must be some sort of logic driving the reduction, which is what I’m lost about. There appears to be no actual reason for the drop.

That's what I'm saying, I know it'll hit my credit. But I honestly don't need credit rn. I have a house and a good car after this. I'm just trying to catch back up before I splurge into anything that's a heap of junk essentially.

We will see

Appreciate it t-poke. I needed to hear that micromanaging part.

No, only one parent may claim the child as a qualifying child to file as head of household.

To file as head of household you must furnish over one-half of the cost of maintaining the household for you and a qualifying person. Therefore, only one of the parents will have contributed more than one-half of the cost of maintaining the household and be eligible to file as head of household.

If both parents claim the child as a qualifying child, there is a tiebreaker rule to determine which parent may claim the child. See Publication 501, Dependents, Standard Deduction and Filing Information for more information.