Recent comments in /f/personalfinance

Its-a-write-off t1_j6nqq3t wrote

There is no way to know the amount of refund without knowing what setting you have on your w4. We don't know if you new w4 form married 0, single 0, old form married 0, new form single 0. Those are all different.

If you and her are both at single, 0 adjustments on the new w4 you should get a refund of about 6000. If you are at married 0 though, then the refund will be less, how much less depends on your total income.

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Snoo1560 t1_j6nqk5g wrote

I don't see the lawsuit going anywhere. The drug company will say it was the mental illness causing the irrational spending as opposed to the medication. Is it worth the time and effort to go back and see where the money went? If it's gone, it's gone. Why not just start now and figure out your debts, expenses, and income, and go from there? If the debt is insurmountable, bankruptcy is an option.

(I speak from experience with this. I'm bipolar and it's really common for people in the hypomanic or manic state to spend too much.)

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Ok_Masterpiece_4305 OP t1_j6nqf8r wrote

Sorry, I should have included in my OP, but I have tried and didn't like YNAB.

I will absolutely code/categorize the transactions on my own, but I want them brought in but not included on my future cashflow projection by transaction. I want the "out" in my cashflow projection to be the estimated or actual credit card invoice amount (I can calculate/enter my own estimate) and not the daily transactions.

I may just have to make my own spreadsheets, but was hoping there was already something out there with this.

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ghalta t1_j6nptiz wrote

To re-explain what the other response means for "time value of money"...

The extra tax would all be at once, right now, while the interest is paid over time. That means the interest you pay in year 7 costs you less in 2023 dollars thanks to inflation.

Meanwhile, presumably your remaining 401k balance continues to generate returns even as you draw it down. So, the 6/7ths of your mortgage balance you don't withdraw this year and instead let grow for a year, the 5/7ths the following year, etc., will go up in value each year, even if you just put it in an ultra-low- or no-risk investment product during that time.

These time effects on money converge, meaning the value of the money you have goes up over time, while the value of the money you owe goes down over time. Put them together, still ignoring any potential impact from bumping up your incremental tax rate, and the cost of 7 years of interest payments could be much less than simply calculating the interest due via spreadsheet.

Then throw in the potential for extra taxes if you liquidate the 401k all at once, and you might tip the scales over in favor of getting a mortgage.

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Baldr_Torn t1_j6npjhj wrote

I don't believe that is correct. At least, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't keep them from paying in Texas. In Texas, you must have car insurance to get your license. (Or fill out paperwork stating you don't own a car.)

So it's very common for them to sell insurance to people who don't have a license. You can't tell people "you must have an insurance to get a license" and at the same time tell them "You must have a license before you can get insurance."

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Its-a-write-off t1_j6np91h wrote

You should both withhold at the single rate (yes both of you). Then, take the amount of refund you would like, divide it by the number of times one of you is paid, and put that amount of extra withholding on 4c for that one w4.

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nya9019 t1_j6noino wrote

At the moment, I am just seeking guidance on how to determine the impact of this situation. I have stopped the "something," which I edited into the original post (an antipsychotic that was causing adverse side effects), but I need to understand the damage first before I can begin to tackle it. My mind has been scattered the past couple of days, and I just need to make sense of things.

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Medium_Yam6985 t1_j6noi5i wrote

Optima is a tax relief firm. They’ll navigate the IRS processes for you and help negotiate the final payment (lower amounts, set up a payment plan, file as “not collectible,” etc.). Those are all things you can do on your own, but only if you dig through the options and figure it out, which may be difficult. For their service, Optima will charge your dad a few thousand dollars. The idea is that their fee is less than what they negotiate on your behalf (so a net win for you). Whether or not you could have gotten the same result on your own without spending the money on Optima is hard to say.

Maybe call the IRS and see what the options are, then ask Optima where they see this heading and see which option is better for you.

Optima is a reputable company. But you still have to pay if you use their services, and it sounds like there’s not much extra cash for you dad.

https://www.nerdwallet.com/article/taxes/optima-tax-relief-review

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phil-l t1_j6nogc1 wrote

Keep that letter with the vehicle's title. Depending on how your state handles vehicle titles, your title probably shows a lienholder. That letter is proof that the lien was satisfied. My state has a two-part title system; after paying off the loan, the lender gives the lien-holder portion of the title to the vehicle owner. If the vehicle owner later sells a car that had been financed earlier, both portions of the title are required to complete the transaction.

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