We're partial to the area because of the commute (easy access to public transport), neighborhood and that it's generally a really nice area. We did consider moving to one of the towns further away that does have A+ districts but they were too far from our friends/family for our liking.

Get it diagnosed and see what's wrong first. This could be simple and unrelated (like bad gas, or a gas cap that isn't properly attached). A rock chip on a windshield (Insurance should cover this) and broken taillight are a poor ways to try and justify a new truck. It's not a design flaw it's a thing that happens when you drive them. If you want to save money you can do your own air filters easily with videos on youtube, but I suspect at your income your time may be worth it to pay someone else to do this stuff unless you enjoy it.

If reliability was your primary concern I'm not sure I would pick a GM or Ford product myself, but that's a topic for another thread.

Honestly this is a tough one there’s so many red flags here.

My biggest recommend would be drop the idea of an SUV. On how much they currently drive that’s a big waste on gas, wear, tires, insurance, etc. Go for an economic car. Their old car payment was also pretty bad considering the car is worth 4K so they either took out too long of a auto loan or got an awful interest rate or both.

I got a 2018 Mazda 3 very good condition CPO ~40k miles from a Mazda dealership for $15k in early 2021. It was used as a business vehicle when business flew in. When processing the loan I actually got an even better deal because they valued the car higher.

I don’t think you’d get the same today but someone else mentioned getting a 2013 Mazda 3 for $8k last year.

Look at credit unions for best auto loan rates. Get comprehensive insurance this time to cover the loan if an accident happens, most require this anyways.

No oohing and ahhing about not getting a SUV or the car they want. To bad at that salary and age they should have at least decent credit and a savings, there’s no one to blame but themselves for the lack of options. They’d be lucky to get a half decent car with the cards they’ve set themselves up with.

Do Not ever, take financial advice from twitter...

That is not the case but good thinking definitely

I have asked a financial advisor who said gosh you should really talk to a cpa and a cpa who said gosh you should really talk to an advisor lol

There isn't enough info here to make a determination.

We don't know what's wrong with the current truck other than it's 3 years old, and pretty low milage for it's age. It's likely just out of warranty depending on what the factory warranty was., nor do we know what it will cost to fix. That said breaking even after 3 years is pretty good. Upgrading to a $52k truck is questionable for sure although it appears you can afford it. To me it sounds like you are trying to justify an upgrade here that you know you don't really need and likely isn't the smartest financial decision. It's ok to have fun and enjoy life by buying things as long as the rest of your financial ship is on course, but we can't see that it is or isn't.

We have no idea what your other expenses are, or the state of the rest of your finances. However, with your income, I question why you have so much financing on recreational things, and at what rates? I would expect to see substantial retirement savings and other investments most likely too.

That definitely seems like the way to go at this time. I appreciate your insight!

I’m less looking for advice and more for parameters I need to be thinking about and including in order to answer the question myself

I slipped and fell in this person's house. Points at you. Now my back hurts and I can never work again. I want $1Million dollars. Also they never paid me my wages and just gave me some cash one time, I think they are exploiting immigrants.

If you let people in your property who are not under a contract and are not bonded and insured, you are a fool.

Those are the options to select to rollover the HSA. I think option 2 makes sense. That means they pull the money from my bank account instead of me actually sending them as option 3 says.

I can’t speak to that, all I can say for certain is that the make/model of the vehicle they are looking at sells for much cheaper in Florida than it does in Georgia.

i would suggest seeing if you are eligible for a low interest rate personal loan, something around 2-4% so it will balance out with the benefit of keeping your savings intact. pay off your credit cards with the personal loans, and consolidate the payment with a significantly lower interest rate. alternatively, you may qualify for a credit card with an introductory 0% interest rate for 18 months (chase freedom if you don't already have one is an option, but there are many others) the introductory balance transfer fee is usually within the 2-4% parameter, so you'll have 18 months of no interest to pay off your debt. those are my best suggestions. the personal loan is more interest but it gives you much longer to pay off your debt with smaller payments. it just depends on how much flexibility you'd like.

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That's actually very insightful. I didn't know the users of these two subs corresponded so much. That makes sense, though.

I just didn't want this post to get deleted.

Good advice automod. OP, you can confirm the phone number a the link I included.

Thank you!

In that case, the answer is 100% No.

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I'm sorry you are dealing with this.

Usually the funeral director can help with tasks like this, if you don't have the time or energy.

1-800-772-1213 to report the death.

https://www.ssa.gov/benefits/survivors/ifyou.html has good info on survivor benefits. Things like:

• Was your dad receiving social security payments yet?
• Is your mom over 60?
• Are you or your siblings under 19?

will effect whether you can/should apply for survivor benefits.

Okay, so I just need to get my current credit report. Thank you!

And I'm trying to pinpoint when I started to accrue this debt.

It really is that simple. Stop spending to save. That's how the rest of us save money.

Also, a couple hundred bucks moving further out is 20% more savings when you're only doing $1000. That's a lot.

Those just appear to be your options for moving money into the HSA. Whether that deposit gets marked as a rollover or a regular contribution would be a different selection. Unless you've already told HealthEquity you're doing a rollover and that was the next step?

Long-term, having a verified bank account "linked" with your HSA is handy, which appears to be option 2. That simplifies your ability to get money into / out of the HSA as needed. Usually you provide your checking account info, the HSA does a "test" deposit / withdrawal (sometimes multiples) of some small amount. Once those transactions shows up at your bank you come back to the HSA and provide the amount they sent to confirm all the info was correct.

Well keep on paying off debt to become free. I would see if I could borrow a car from a family member until the debt is paid off, or get a car from one who is looking to upgrade.

How much money do you on food, travel, and alcohol each month?