So someone could make up to $8k by just transporting a car one state over? Color me skeptical.

Are you writing and actually following a monthly budget?

Why not wait a few years to return to school once you have more money saved up? Your mindset around “that would only save me a couple hundred a month” is probably hurting you more than you realize—even $200/mo extra savings turns into $2400/year towards grad school

You're probably right. I'll add some details. I just didn't want this post to be deleted for giving the impression of seeking legal advice.

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/r/ukpersonalfinance can probably better help you.

Double return after each item in your list will give it a new line and make it much easier to read.

You list $1880 worth of monthly expenses without food, fuel for the car, insurance, clothes or any personal or household items, and your income comes to $2083 a month (Assuming that's gross so take-home is likely less). That's before taking into account the mechanic or anything else.

You need to reduce expenses everywhere you can, and increase income however possible. Not sure how child support works in the UK but you need that income. As for the car you need to determine what all the warranty covers and doesn't cover. There should be a contract associated with this. You should also look into any social services to help support you, food stamps, welfare etc.

I totally agree, although they are currently working on paying off existing debt & being more mindful with finances. They have paid off one credit card, and the last large bit of debt they have is student loans and a few thousand dollars in medical debt. Their credit has climbed significantly in the last 6-12 months, so there is definitely progress being made.

Information on your current credit report includes debt taken out in the last 7 years. You might not even need reports from prior years, but yes, you may be able to get prior credit reports if you have a valid reason and if the CSR you talk to at the credit bureau can find the report.

Frankly, you'll get just as good information here as you would at r/legaladvice. Lawyers follow this forum and chime in on topics. On r/legaladvice, you don't know that the posters are lawyers and based on what I've seen, most aren't.

Yes, for the most part, but I also don't know how to factor in the accumulation of debt in regard to the situation I mentioned.

Edit: Just saw your comment about credit reports. Thank you for this guidance.

Awesome thank you!

Okay :-)

Spreadsheet all the info so you can print it out and have it as a reference

You can pull credit card statements as pdfs and print them

It is way too late for advice. Seek advice before acting, then it can be helpful.

For them yes. What is your partner doing to improve her credit? I hate to say it but some people never learn about money and finances and it is beyond them. In such cases, a lot of times it is cheaper in the long run to buy them something simple and let them have it, vs financing. Never give them money directly.

Credit reports aren't really a thing you get on a historic basis. You get your current report and it will show you what has happened over the last few year. It will show any credit inquiries in the last 2 years, any missed or late payments for the last seven years, any bankruptcies for the last 7-10 years.

Not sure what you are trying to do with the credit report, but that is usually good enough for most people.

I think folks will have a hard time helping you assess the impact of an event without knowing what that event is, unfortunately. So you may want to add more clarity so any and all impacts could be assessed

Also don’t leave your current job until you have landed a new position.

So you want to know how much debt you had last year vs this year? Is that the intent?

You can't get old credit reports, as those would be useless. Pull your credit card statements.

Personal

I just went online to payflex and closed the account and requested a check. I didn't know that i had to ask for a check payable to new HSA administrator so they just sent it to me.

Thank you so much for this info. I posted below options for health equity to rollover. Should i just pick option 3 then ?

Option 1 — Check I have included a check for the amount of the distribution from another HSA. Please make check payable to HealthEquity. When you provide a check as payment, you authorize HealthEquity to either use the information from your check to make a one-time, Back Office Conversion (BOC), electronic fund transfer from your account if eligible, or to process the payment as a check transaction. Funds processed via BOC may be withdrawn from your account as soon as the same day your payment is received.

Option 2 — Use verified EFT account already on file associated to my HSA. Please provide last 4 of account number .* Note: Account must be verified for contributions in order for HealthEquity to pull the funds via EFT.

Option 3 — One-time electronic funds transfer (EFT). (Form must be accompanied by a copy of a voided or an actual check)

If you want to save more, stop spending on traveling and those vices.

This may be something to consider. Would a leased vehicle still come with the same issue of very high interest rates?

so last time a rock hit the windshield and put a crack in it, then a tail light got hit by who knows what so I had to spend $500 to fix it. Today was driving down the road and my truck was stuck in limp mode and I couldn't go over 30MPH. Im worried that more and more issues will come and truck will turn into a money pit and at the same time it will keep devaluing and I wont actually get another 32k offer on it.

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I see your point though, and I try to avoid car payments but was wondering if at this point is best to take advantage of the high trade in value. Tires should also be due soon and I'm sure at the next oil change the dealer will ask to replace air vent filters and other things like transmission oil etc

Ideally you'd have more saved up. Preferably 20%. You also need probably ~$5k for closing costs, although that amount can vary a lot from place to place. That said, $50k in income should be enough to get a $100k loan. If you are going more towards the top of the range, you might run into trouble, but probably not worth paying extra tax over.

If you are close to your Uncle and he has been nice to you and your late mother(his sister) then maybe sell it to him at a 10% discount, $225,000 FIRM.

Bring in a realtor to do a COMPS for what the house is worth. You can sort of do that on your own with your recorder or register of deeds office and tax assessor, those offices are all online nowadays.

I keep a list of all the sales of my neighbors houses. I also have the realtor sales listings from all the houses. I also have a list of what everyone's property taxes are and their last assessments. (I might be a little to nosy)

If he has not sat down and gone through numbers and what needs to be fixed and costs, then don't believe him. Do not let him bring in a contractor friend, you hire your own contractor to give their estimates.

If he has been an ass, then go all in on selling the house outright. Divvy the money up 50/25/25.

He plans on buying you out cheap, use what should have been your money and MAYBE fixing it, and then selling it. He is going for a quick flip.