Mate you should get a small dose of reality here. You can’t seriously consider buying a 350z with a starting job.

I used to work in car insurance and we couldn’t add a 350 to a personal policy bc it’s so big it was considered a work vehicle. Rapid edit: thought you meant ford F350 not Nissan, which may change some numbers here, but not significantly.. however, the 350z isn’t a work vehicle of course. Why in the world do you need a 350, or any car when you turn 17? Sounds like you need to get a job first to have a legitimate reason to need a car.

You also probably can’t open your own insurance policy at 17 so you need to ask your parents and call and see what quotes are. No one can give you a good guess but I mean at least 250-300 a month on that car. Depends on a lot of factors. But if you have a 300 car payment and a 300 insurance payment can you pay $600 a month on a theoretical $11? Include $100 in gas a month. $700 a month for a car. You would have to work 70 hours a month, minimum, comfortably 20 a week. To me that isn’t excessive and I worked 20 hours a week stating at 16 but if you play school sports or have other commitments that may not be feasible.

Do you have anything saved for a down payment or are your parents helping? Bottom line is no, you can’t afford this. Also you need to get the numbers first then make a decision on a car second. Statistically, you will crash your first car, so it’s best to get a beater.

It's not corrupt to be unknowingly charging a premium much lower than the risk involved. Personal use is much lower risk than Uber, Lyft or DoorDash, etc. Or maybe you'd just rather have everyone pay the higher rates for commercial/business use just in case so those that do use their car in that manner will be covered in an accident. Come to think of it why not just everyone pay the exact same rate regardless of where you live, what you drive or your driving record.

Listen to that person OP, it sounds like they work in the industry as well as myself. It's unlikely most if not all the others do. Insurance advice on this sub is VERY hit and miss. I've seen some really really bad advice in here. You would be better served at /r/insurance.

Wills can be contested

Thanks for telling me I am psychotic. That is so civil of you. OP is ready to purchase the house and OP should not take the financial risk of joint ownership with someone who is not a spouse.

There is no rush to marriage because the decision to marry has already been made. Having a marriage service performed at the county office protects OP and source legally, and they can still have the planned cultural wedding service and reception.

Blocked for your lack of civility

It's shocking how much bad info on car insurance is given in this sub on multiple threads.

Perhaps your managed fund has done a bit better, but past results are not an indicator of future of returns, so no one knows if it does better

Numbers and location are necessary here.

Line out what you earn, where it's going, and so on. Be detailed.

They can't and won't get involved unless you file a claim and damages exceed your deductible.

>They should be advocating for you even if their own money isn’t on the line. But I guarantee they will if it is their money.

OPs insurance can't and won't do anything unless damages exceeds his deductible and he files a claim with them.

Just throwing this out there, the 350z is one of the most deadly cars on the road (specifically model years 2005-2008). Not because it's an unsafe vehicle, mind you. It's one of the most deadly cars on the road because it was, and still is, an insanely affordable sport car with enough power to allow immature and inexperienced drivers to easily exceed their driving skills and rational thought skills.

The long and short of it, a 350z is WAAAY too much car for a 17 year old male. Also, since insurance views a 17 year old that only has 1-3 years driving experience as a smooth brained dolt you will be paying through the nose even for liability because they know you'll end up driving your car through someone's front porch or crashing into 5 other cars as you fail to control the power.

Now that we are past the " you really shouldn't buy anything faster than a base model Civic", all the wage questions you have depends on where you live. It could be as low as $7.25/hr (about half the states) or it could be as high as $15.74 (Washington) and it could even depend on the city or county you are in within the state. Unskilled labor is and should be paid at a low amount fitting the work being performed.

If you want to fast track your hourly compensation, look into apprenticeships for something in the trades like road construction (~$15/hr), plumbing (~$22/hr), electrician ($23/hr), etc. Don't be surprised if you get offered less of an hourly rate than I posted, that's averaged across the USA and you'll make less at a small town company than you would in a big city.

Your exactly right in that they could be using the car in violation of their insurance contract like Door Dash or something, they could be an excluded or undisclosed driver or they didn't pay their bill and the policy isn't in force or any number of other things.

sometimes policies lapse without people realizing it.

Nope. Zero benefit. You are simply a revenue stream for your landlord. There's no good reason to give them a year's worth of rent.

Stay liquid. And if you wish, take that liquidity and earn some interest.

Why not wait until you find it to sell?

My and my daughters IULs and critical illness insurance.

Ashley card is 0% apr until it's paid off if i pay 110/mo to it. 109/mo and I get charged all the interest, probably a couple hundred bucks or so.

No ads is why i pay for it, but once I get the new job, I think I won't use it nearly as often, if at all.

Thank you so much! That is much simpler than I anticipated. I didn't even know I could roll over an HSA the same way I can rollover a 403(b) so that is GREAT to know as well!

Then by this:

> I had the HDHP for 5-6 years with my last employer, until end of June 2022.

You have unlocked 6/12 of the HSA maximum.

This simplifies to 1/2 of the HSA maximum.

This is the total you (including employer) can contribute to the HSA for 2022.

If you have not hit half of the max HSA for 2022, then you can make a contribution directly (out of your bank account).

You can also consider moving the HSA to somewhere with no fees and allows you to invest the money in whatever you want.

Fidelity is the one you should consider.

• https://thefinancebuff.com/best-hsa-provider-for-investing-hsa-money.html

I suggest selling, getting an Airbnb or staying with relatives, immediately buying. People I know who did that were all fine. People I know who got a regular yearlong rental were occasionally priced out and ended up buying back into something smaller than they had sold.

Oh! Sorry, it's early here. I read 12/1 and my tired brain thought January. I'll edit to correct, but yes as of 12/1 I did not have the HDHP. And correct, I don't plan to have another HDHP for 2023.

It made sense until you said:

> On 12/1/2022 I had the HDHP

Because you also said:

> Since ~July 2022 and through to present I have a non-HDHP.

So... you didn't have HDHP 12/1/2022 then... right? (and basically don't plan on having HDHP for entirety of 2023)

I had the HDHP for 5-6 years with my last employer, until end of June 2022. My new employer's coverage does not qualify as an HDHP. I forget the name of the insurance company that I have but I know it is not an HDHP.

On 12/1/2022 I did not have the HDHP and have not hit the yearly contribution cap yet for 2022.

Since ~July 2022 and through to present I have a non-HDHP.

I hope that makes sense!

Edit: Confused 12/22 and 1/22

[removed]

Clarify, exactly when did you have HDHP?

Most interested in the 1st of every month.

Clarify when the HDHP was "lost?"

Clarify, what coverage you had on 12/1/2022?

Clarify, what coverage you have since 2023 began?