Yeah, sounds likely it was a scam. Scammers use phone number spooofing which is a service they can make whatever phone number show up on your caller id they want. Having the actual Chase Bank phone number show on your phone is part of the scam. Its such a common scam that most banks have a warning about them. See Chase Bank link here

https://www.chase.com/digital/resources/privacy-security/questions/fraud

Call Chase and tell them what happened. Ask if it was them that called. If it wasn't, change your password and pin number immediately. Subscribe to an identity and credit monitoring service like Experian that would notify you if someone applies for credit or uses your personal identification. Also change your Chase notifications to notify you of all transactions. You may get a lot of notifications but you can change it back when you're confortable that you don't see any fraudulent transactions.

It’s possible you got fished for answers to security questions that a bad actor could use to access your accounts. That’s the problem with those security questions - you can change your passwords, but you can’t change your mothers maiden name.

It is weird they were able to verify your account activity though - I don’t get that.

I would definitely report this incident up through chase, and monitor your account activities.

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>I think we are just talking past each other. I feel like I’m reading your points, they all agree with everything both of us are saying, and yet somehow they are presented as responses to my comment as if we are not in agreement.

Peraps, to some degree, yes. However, you seem to be very focussed on US examples, which are not relavant. When the point about the 3-5% savings accounts was made the commenter we did not know (at least I didn't, and I guess they didn't) that OP was in the US. So, for all intents and purposes, the US is no more relevant than any other country as the benchmark.

>ETA: 259 comes from 5.89% (589 bps) - 3.3% (330 bps) = 2.59% (259 bps). Likewise, 89 bps came from just the difference between 5.89% and the top end estimate of 5.00%.

Where does 3.3% come from?

>No assumptions have been made about whether the higher yield vehicle is a savings account, only that it is not a US savings account at a bank (I.e. FDIC insured).

OK.

>Savings account that we normally think of with banks are pretty low risk (and in the US, which is not what commenter in invested in, don’t yield 5.89%). It is specifically the safety of savings accounts that lead them not to yield 5.89% (in the us, for usd investments) currently. If you could get a true equivalent investment across currencies with all the safety of a US savings account that DID yield 5.89%, that would attract a lot of investment, which likely would drive down the rate due to the high demand. Alternatively, it might not attract investment because it isn’t equivalent (currency conversion costs, access issues, risk differences, etc).

I think I pointed out already that other countries also have similar insurance schemes (I don't know much about FDIC, but in the UK the FCA insures up to something like £85k per individual, which should be more than a years rent. I would bet this is common in most developed nations.) In the UK I am pretty sure you could get roughly 5.89% in a savings account if you took advantage of introducory offers and things.

However, if the interest rate is only marginally better than the US then it would not make sense for a US investor to trade currencies to invest in foreign savings accounts, and have the hassle of management etc, plus the cost of the currency exchange - doing this twice could easily take away a significant portion of any gains. The effort and currency conversions are big enough that if the risk is equal it would not be worth the effort, and for a lot of people that would even be true if they were to make a small amount of extra money, and guaranteed to do so... it's simpy a lot of effort.

>While percentages are independent of currency, one reason a vehicle could provide more return is because of the currency. USD is a highly fungible and useful currency with a strong history of stability and operates as the global reserve currency. Russian rubles are extremely difficult to spend, so an investment opportunity in Russian rubles would need to provide a much higher rate of return than an equivalent opportunity in USD. Getting 100% returns restricted to rubles is, for most people, probably not as attractive as getting 3.3% in a US savings account. As a result, we wouldn’t just say that the 100% yield is better - currency matters. To relate it to your example, if the value of bottle caps was highly volatile relative to USD, such that 100 bottle caps is 100 USD last week, 50 USD this week, and maybe 150 USD next week, you would need additional return on your bottle cap investment that would cover the cost of hedging against USD / bottle cap fluctuations to have the return be comparable to a USD denominated vehicle. A more real world example might be if you had a crypto denominated savings account.

Yep, some good points. USD is widely used, of course, including for most foreign transactions, as I'm sure you know. There are of course other currencies in reasonably stable positions, for example GBP, EUR, CHF.

Of course, some currencies are more volatile, and that is important, but this is part of why people would typically not open foreign savings accounts, which is why the initial suggestion seemed odd. It would make sense if your home currency was volatile, or facing issues like high inflation, but most developed nations are not in that position - of course, there are plenty of places where it does make sense. Though, arguably in those places are people are less likely to have th emeans to take advantage of foreign investment opportunities.

Also, unless exchange rate volatility is particularly high then keeping to your own currency hasn't got a great risk - For example GBP to USD has changed quite a lot over he last 5-10 years, but on a day-to-day it's not had a vast impact.

I like the comparison of crypto to bottle caps I mentioned.

>Finally, the comment that started this specifically referenced getting 3-5% returns in a savings account for someone living in NYC (and paying rent in USD). Hence all the context about USD and US savings accounts.

Already mentioned, we did not know at the time, at least I did not, and maybe the person who made he 3-5% comment also did not.

> Skepticism is being expressed that a cash equivalent investment that can be converted to USD to pay rent with the safety of a US savings account would really return 5.89%

I fully agree that there is a risk to that conversion. The skepticism is that investment in a foreign savings account could be repatriated to your home country effectively to take advantage of likely minimal or equal interest rate benefits. However, I see no reason to link this to USD and I think doing so is making things muddy.

The 3-5% comment was made by someone not in the US, not using US savings accounts, and as far as I know unaware OP was in the US, and 'not in a developing country'.

I think that for someone to invest in a savings account in another country there would need to be quite a significant benefit, and 1-2% would not be enough at all, assuming they have a stable home currency, especially when only talking about the value of a years rent.

The benefit of a foreign savings account is greater to people with an unstable, or highly inflating currency - this is not the case for the person making the 3-5% comment. If someone did want a foreign savings account I'm not sure they'd want to pick a US savings account, due to complex US tax laws, particularly if there was any risk of the person gaining tax nexus in the US by having such an account (not sure if they would, but gaining US tax nexus sucks).

Basically, you call up the new place, say hey I've got a shitty loan, can you beat it? They say yes or no. If it's yes, they basically pay off the old loan, and you pay them now, hopefully with a better interest rate. Might cost a fee, but if you can't sell it right now, then this will at least save you money in interest and lower your monthly payment. You could still pay it down enough to sell it, but it's up to you. Doesn't hurt to call.

Couldn't that just be addressed with a will?

Insurance will be absolutely insane on a 350z at 17

Wanted they notified you of the escrow shortage, they should have sent you a form that tells you how the new amount was calculated. If you have an online portal for your loan, check for letters and it should be there.

Research shows that actively-managed funds beating comparable index funds is a matter of not many, not by much, & not for long.

Not many actively-managed funds beat comparable index funds over any particular time period. Usually fewer than 20% in a year. Even fewer for longer time periods.

The actively-managed funds that do win usually don't win by much. Those that lose usually lose by a lot more.

The actively-managed funds that do win usually don't win for long. The percentage of funds that wins in one time & then wins again in the next time period is about what would be expected based on random chance. So of the 20% or so that win one year, only about 20% will win again the next year. In other words, they probably won because of luck, not skill.

Standard & Poors published their Index vs. Active report and their Persistence report every 6 months; they document these points very consistently

There is usually a 30 day grace period in the contract. It’s still possible he’s not current, but within the grace period, so the insurance company doesn’t want to pay until/unless he does.

I'm not aware of any tax software that doesn't round to the nearest dollar. The more surprising thing to me is that you're allowed to use cents at all, as I've never seen it.

I'm not trying to be mean, unless there's a significant amount of medical or student loan debt involved, a poor credit score at the age of 40 is the result of ongoing bad financial choices.

There's nothing even close to realistic about getting an SUV with 25,000 miles on it for $10,000, and besides, driving a gas guzzling SUV 600 miles a week is a terrible idea.

I'm sorry, but you're talking about a grown man, right? Why are you figuring out his problems for him?

Edited for typos

>Graco 4 in 1 is good until the kid goes to college

🤣

Do you use it for work? I know the general consensus here is that it's supposed to be for work otherwise you get into some gray area of legal issues.

Rarely. When they do, it's usually not by much & not for long

What you're thinking of is a 1031 "like-kind exchange" which only applies to investment properties. Investment properties are taxed different from your primary residence or even a second home.

For a qualifying primary residence - where you lived there for 2 of the last 5 years - you automatically get a $250,000 capital gains exclusion, or $500,000 if married.

With an index fund, thousands of someones are minding the store & we investors don't have to pay them

Check the fund profile online. It will tell you the fund's returns over various time periods (always reported after expenses, by law) & the returns of the fund's benchmark (usually an index).

The profile will also disclose the fees, including the expense ratios, loads, 12b-1 (marketing) fees, etc.

You didn't mention the limit and utilization on the other 2 cards. 2K utilization on 3K limit is high and may or may not have a negative impact on your score. Get your report and score, and if it's not good enough and this is the only account with a high balance, just ask her to remove you as AU from this card while keeping the others.

Assuming US, the draft ended in 1973.

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You have enough saved for an emergency fund. Your car loan interest rate is pretty low as well. Paying it off early wouldn’t save you much other than piece of mind. I would refer to the sub’s wiki. You’re at the point to start saving for retirement. General rule of thumb is to save 20 to 25% of your gross income for retirement. The way you want to do it is save up to your employer’s match into a 401k, then max out an IRA ($6500/year), then save what you need to back into your 401k to total the 20 to 25%.

1. 401k- contribute up to match
2. Max out Roth IRA
3. Max out HSA (if you have a HDHP)
4. Up the % of your 401k contribution