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>Not really a marital status issue.

Yes, it is. Highly illegal and a good way to end up with multi-million dollar fines and increased federal oversight among other possible issues. Fun thing about reguatlors is when they find one significant regulation violation, they go fishing for more.

>It’s more of an issue where the bank already knows the credit history of one party who will be cohabiting the home, even though they aren’t on the loan.

If they're not on the loan, then they're irrelevant to the underwriter. Doesnt matter if they plan to live in the home or not. She could put him on the title to the property and his credit history would still be completely irrelevant as long as he isn't on the loan.

I replied in a different response, but in the event I do this and I do this the correct way (using it only for work-related travel), would I have to log my travels in case I ever get audited? The way that they would provide this benefit to me is I would make a declaration of how much I’d want to take out of my paycheck, it would be added to either a commuter card debit card (or straight into a transit pass if I wanted to), and afterwards I’d use that card to buy/load my transit pass.

What are the odds of being audited for something like this? I’ll definitely bring this up and ask my benefits team since they distinguish between commuting and parking, with only work specific language on the parking portion where it states that this can be used to pay for parking near your workplace. versus the commuting is just a catch-all “use it to pay for commuting expenses (bus/train/carpool), but nothing else (rideshare like Uber/Lyft not included).

Some states let you buy insurance by mile. Depends on where you live. Check out metromile.com

Sorry, I saw that right after I replied last. It’s a major no no to for a lender to send a social security number in the open web. Chat with the lender about it and if you want, you can file a report with the DRE for your state if you feel compromised.

Chances are nothing will come of it, but I’m not going to advise you to ignore anything because a leaked social, birthdate and address is a pretty big deal.

Sorry, I don’t have anything comforting to say.

Because of what I make working 9-5, the tax rate on my business income starts at 22%. Yes there are deductibles but it's a level playing field with competing businesses in that regard. Also, I'm still unclear about purchasing equipment in future years but there is a limit to how much you can write off for start up costs. For example, if I spent 50k on tools and equipment and such to start up, I can only deduct 5k the 1st year. I have to continue writing it off in chunks over the next handful of years.

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Appreciate the answers, y’all. I’m definitely learning a lot. How would this be something interpreted as a remote worker? Would a bus ride to a local coffee shop to work be fine? Would getting things like office supplies/coffee to make my “work environment” better be fine? Would I have to keep a log of my travels? I’m not hiding the fact that I am remote as I transitioned from working in office, representing a specific location to now declaring being a full on remote worker.

Asking because I was wondering if you have clarification on what would be determined legal for remote workers? Also legit asking for context as I’m just learning about this and not at all to circumvent or loophole this. It seems like a gray area, but also uncertain since remote work existed before the pandemic.

If I went through this process, I’d get a physical card sent to me and the purchase would be for a physical transit pass that would be periodically loaded as needed, so the only charge would be on that commuter card while my transit pass is the one getting used for commuting.

It seems like it’s one of those things that I shouldn’t be too concerned about in terms of enforcement, but also I feel like I’ll play it safe. Either way, I can still load a minuscule amount for the few times I do meet up for work at a co-working space and $5-$10/month would help cover those rare trips while saving some money on tax.

Go somewhere other than the dealer and get the car fixed. Don’t buy a new car right now. Prices are going down.

Dealers aren’t the best place to get old cars fixed. Their hourly rate is usually 2 x other shops.

I don't really get that perspective but if it works for you...

Poor credit? Long commute?

Sounds like a candidate for our perennial favorite, the beige Corolla.

No you'll be required to keep full coverage as long as you have a lien on the title. (until your loan is paid)

Here is what I shared with another comment!

So my fiance started the application, and he shared my email for me to complete the application. That email I did receive and I filled out the application. But after that the lender would directly send us emails and from then my email had been incorrect. So I'm not sure if she just copied my email wrong since I did get one correct email but it was automated.

Lol I genuinely can’t tell if this is a joke like you’re pranking me. You’re telling me a contract signed by both parties prior to it becoming in force should still stand if one party lies? So say I buy your house for $1 million dollars I move in and then never pay you there’s no recourse? You honored your end of the bargain but I lied. But contract is still valid I get the house and you never get your money. This has to be a troll post? You’re saying that lying to receive the benefit should require the benefit to still be provided? An insurance company denying coverage does not stop the claimant from filing suit against the at fault party. I just think you misunderstand how contracts, insurance, and the law works frankly.

How did the lender get the email? Did you fill out an app online or did he just mistype?

No, not possible to turn a 4-week into a 13-week with auto-roll. Let the 4-week mature (it'll mature on a Tuesday) and then buy the 13-week on Thursday.

Sure but it means I have to charge more to make the same profit as them.

I understand how it works, taking on a side job means that it effectively starts being taxed at 22%.

T-bills have regular auction times (barring holidays)

4/8/13/17/26-week T-bills are auctioned every week. The announcement date for 4/8/17-week is usually Tuesday and Thursday for 13/26-week. The auction date for 17-week is Wednesday, Thursday for 4/8-week, and Monday for 13/26-week. The settlement date is a week after the announcement date (usually).

Answer to your questions:

2. Have the money ready on the announcement date.

3. On the announcement date. (I think it's easier to do it on the announcement date)

4. Use auto-roll if you want to keep rebuying that specific term length.

Also, the person who sent the documents today with the sensitive information was someone who is assisting our lender too... so I'm not sure if that affects anything.

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Again, disingenuous. The underwriter is required to provide coverage for a vehicle in order to be allowed to provide proof of insurance. That is the requirement. Otherwise, any scammer could provide “insurance” from an Indian call center, then disallow all responsibilities for whatever clause. The fraud is by the insurance company and their agents when they insure a vehicle, guarantee coverage, then stipulate against coverage in such a way that a third party would be left with the same limited recourse as existed before such insurance was mandatory. Either only sell fully functional policies, get out of the business, or expect to go to jail.

I absolutely think the underwriter should bear responsibility. If they want to go back on the insured for some stipulation, fine, don’t care. But outright denying claims fails on multiple criteria for an underwriter.

Nope. He even forwarded me the email and I was able to see everything. I didn't have to do anything to see the documents. Whereas with previous documents I did have to confirm his identity to see those.

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So for like a 13-wk (3 month) bill this Thursday the next batch of bills will become available for auction that closes the following Monday.

Schedule is located here:

https://treasurydirect.gov/auctions/upcoming/

They don’t show up on Fidelity until the auction opens. Note you don’t have to bid, just enter how much you want in “face value”, then after the auction close you find out the exact cost (and thus the actual yield)

Wouldn’t money being reinvested into the business be deductible? I am not sure your scenario holds water.