The magic number used to be 26. When I turned 26 my insurance dropped like $1000 a year.

Keep your nose clean though, your insurance company cares what you've done longer than the police do.

1. You need a brokerage account. The cash to purchase anything will come from the "settlement fund" (a.k.a. "Core Position") in that brokerage account, which is usually a money market fund of some sort.
2. While logged in to Fidelity, you will go to News & Research > Fixed Income, Bonds & CDs > New Issues > Treasury. There you will see a list of what is available to buy. The money must be in your settlement fund when you hit "Trade" to buy. The "settlement date" listed in the display is when the T-bill will actually start, which will be some number of days later.
3. When the duration you want is available.
4. There is an "Auto roll" option for Treasuries -- I've never used it, so can't comment. Fidelity has a way to build and automatically maintain ladders, but I think that is only for CDs, not for Treasuries.

Renters insurance is a personal expense.

She should have called and cancelled it herself.

If she didn't do so, it'd be her fault

There are a few step by step videos on YouTube. Here’s one of them…

https://youtu.be/HdlGaT_Gy5o

If you still have questions, I would call Fidelity.

Dang it, no more temptations for sidewalk driving or bumper cars?

It's not your problem. Your company will cover the costs of the repair, then they deal with subrogation. If the other party's coverage isn't enough, then your insurance company will sue him directly.

1. U don’t need a cash management account. U can use either.

2. I just dump a bunch of cash in the brokerage account.

3. Whenever u want. Look at new issues and see what is available to purchase

4. Fidelity has auto roll - you just turn it on when u buy. What is annoying is you can’t turn it off on line - u need to call them

5. Just make sure you buy new issues. Fidelity doesn’t present the info as nice as Vanguard - you need to look at maturity date to calc if you want to buy 4 week/8 week/13 week etc. The money uninvested is in the brokerage account receives interest.

I don't believe this.

Throughout the Fringe Benefit section of the IRS (Pub 15-B) there are multiple notices that commuter benefits must be used only between your place of residence and your place of work. This is explicitly stated for highway share and parking. Using it for other reasons would be considered a fraudulent use of the card for evading taxes.

In the public transit subsection, it's left ambiguous. Likely because the IRS doesn't want you to use it for personal travel, but also is aware that proving you didn't use your transit card to go to work may provide difficult. Especially with things like weekly or monthly passes.It's a legal gray zone for sure, but unlikely to ever see enforcement.

Many providers of transit cards discourage use of transit benefits for non-work related expenses, likely because they don't want to be complicit if you in fact get audited.

Funny you should mention that. I have a newborn and am actually looking at the educational savings plans now RESP here in Canada. Retirement plan is ok. I put about 5% in a year. Took some out to put down payment on house.

You need to pay the state taxes for money earned while you were a resident in that state. The best way to do this is to contact your HR department and ask for a corrected W-2 (W-2C). Some companies can be pain’s getting this done but it will be the best because then your taxes and the company’s payroll submissions will match. If they don’t do it, you don’t get out of jail free. You still need to report correctly on your taxes the income you earned in each state.

There is no 14% tax bracket. That may be your effective tax rate but it's not a bracket.

LLC revenue and expenses are reported on your Schedule C and the profit is added to your W2 income for taxation. An S corp changes this slightly.

My wife and I bought a house this summer and I am the only one on the loan (she still legally owns half the house though). We did it this way because my credit score is better and my salary is high enough to have afforded the house payment on my own. We got a better interest rate going this route.

Only if you maintain a clean driving record for good

I have a month's worth of expenses set aside. Any extra money or overtime goes straight to debt payments

What is your retirement planning looking like?

If you have a 6 month emergency fund saved up, that’s great! And I get wanting to pay off the car, although that’s a pretty low interest rate. If you’re behind on saving for retirement, the stock market is pretty much guaranteed to average more than 3.4% over the long term.

But if your retirement is on track, you’ve got an emergency fund built up, and you don’t have any other savings goals at the moment (you already have a house, so the only other thing I might think of would be a 529 plan if you have kids and want to set aside money for college), then I would use your leftovers to pay down low-interest debt.

Love that you’re spending less than you make and saving each month, but saving should always have a purpose. If there isn’t a specific reason you’re saving the money, then I would pay down debt.

I would be able to defer but equivalent degrees in the US are like 4-5 times the cost overall

It will show up on your credit report. That can be both good and bad. Many LOCs have application fees and time limits on when you can use them. Lastly, in 2008, many banks closed them when things went south. So not a good product to depend on.

So, yes. throw every spare dollar at that car loan and get it out of your life.

I would save to $70k before paying off loans faster than necessary. This replaces your primary earners wages for a full year in the event of a catastrophe.

I would also ensure your maxing out retirement contributions prior to paying off debt as you’re likely to getter a better return than you’re losing in interest on the vehicle.

Either way you’re doing fine.

You pay $975.85 and get $1000 in 6 months.

Of course, you're buying before the auction so the price isn't set.

Before I got my liscence I was under the impression that a males insurance didn't go down until 21, then when I turned 21 I learned it was 24, when I turned 24 I learned it was 27, will it ever go down for good?

Do you really think it's helpful to just tell me what to do while giving no context or insight as to why? Why is it so important in your mind to be married prior to owning the home when we will be married in a matter of months?

r/fidelityinvestments

Moving twice in a year is brutal.

Car and mortgage are the only debts either of us have. I’d plan too only have the line of credit available if I somehow hit really hard times and had no other options (which I don’t foresee) is there any negative to having the LOC and not touching it?