It doesn't really matter. They're all very similar.

Even on 15K, the difference between 4% and 3.3% is about $9/month in interest.

Not only this, but please don't think of yourself as "behind in life" based on your net worth. Life isn't about collecting money, which you can't take with you anyway. Life is about living.

Living well means being responsible with your resources so you can use them well. That's it.

Keep in mind that her payoff excludes tax, title, license and any lease fees. Additionally, if she purchases the vehicle directly, she’ll have to wait for a physical title before she call sell her vehicle. (Can potentially take several weeks)

Purchasing and selling doesn’t seem worth it to me in this situation.

Depends on the bank but you'll most likely be charged overdraft. Could be $20, could be $50. Always worth a shot to go to the branch and explain the situation, especially since it was immediately rectified.

Thanks!

It might but I doubt it. You can run the simulator here https://studentaid.gov/loan-simulator

Okay I guess my thought was would the minimum she may get for her loans based on individual income be better than whatever extra we may pay in taxes. I just wasn’t aure

Wherever your payments go to you can view a copy of the promissory note and that would tell you it's a loan. If it's a lease then you will have access to the contract from wherever your payments go to and the contract would tell you 'lease' or not

Nothing about this suggests filing separately would be wise.

> If we file joint then I am just afraid that her 27k new payment will be based on both incomes and a lot higher, so is that just something my tax guy can help me with?

She has a 60K income alone, I haven't done the simulation calculator lately but I doubt income based really helps her whether you file joint or separately.

Remove every payment method from every app then uninstall the app. If you happen to cave and reinstall, add payment method and order immediately repeat the above process. Eventually it becomes easier to just not.

Seconding MVNOs. Ive got visible for $25 per month.

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Not too fucked, especially since you have instant transfers. Usually, fees and totals and stuff get assessed at the end of the business day. If you have a positive balance by the end of the day, you should be golden.

You might get charged an overdraft fee but since you corrected it you should be fine moving forward

Yes, there's a 5 day grace period here in WA as well, I even got a lease amendment about it, but I worry less about lapsing for 5 days and more about situation where I get into a car accident and am in a hospital for a week. The lease agreement language is very harsh - if you miss a payment, and lease office can decide to be shitty, they can "accelerate" the entire lease and make me pay 6+ months at once. I'd rather keep that month prepaid so there's less chance of this happening.

You spend $800/month on a Mitsubishi Mirage…. Why would you ever do that?!?

Budgeting conservatively is probably wise but $150 in gas for a remote worker sounds super high.

You might want the car at your Tech School

If you decide to keep the car contact your insurance about putting it in locked storage. I did that with my kids car when he went in the air force and he saved a fortune on insurance while he did basic and tech school. It was under $50 per month but he had liability coverage.

Probably have to get a loan to clear up the title. I wouldn’t hold the car while is was deployed. Cars are gonna go down more

Hmmm. This is a great hybrid method. Another one I was thinking about is to list the highest payment to the lowest. Pay off debt with the highest payment to free up more money per month to put the next one.

Family =/= best cost. Plenty of barbers charge less than $60 for a cut.

Can you just pay your parents for your share? Family plans do generally have the lowest per line cost.

If not, the cheapest options are generally going to be resellers like Mint, Google Fi, etc.

Tmobile is typically cheaper than Verizon, but coverage is more iffy outside population centers. Much better than it was years ago before the Sprint merger.

> to negotiate the monthly cost down to as low as possible.

Not really a thing.

Snowball method is a totally valid approach, but you can do both. “Snowball” the lower interest debts but consolidate high interest debts to slow the bleeding.

That’s exactly what I was initially feeling. I’ve enjoyed the last three years without a car payment and I was hoping to continue on.