I know I fell for a bad recommendation to go into one of these no cash down car places and I had no credit, I would not have this car at all if I knew these things,I just don't know what .y best option is now.

That car is selling less than $18000 now. Most dealers are going to offer you 8000-10000 for it because the used car market is crashing. Your best bet would be working with the lender and explain the situation and see what programs they have. I would recommend keeping the car, its a little short sited thinking you will not need a car after boot camp. During my A school being able to jump in the car and get away from it all at times was great. Second depending on where you get stationed you will need a car....most bases are far from public transportation.

I’ll have to take a look at bonds - that’s not a place I’ve invested before.

>I assume it isn’t a hysa, but the original context of the comment was “putting the money in a savings account” and this return was being directly compared to HYSA returns

Except they said a savings account (they did not use the term HYSA, which I think is US specific) was 3-5%, then went to add that personally their cash yields 5.89%, and didn't mention a savings account, plus the rate is beyond what they said could be achieved in a savings account.... suggesting their money is in something else.

>The point, however, is that you cannot just look at yield and say it is all the same - risk based return colors raw yield numbers.

Why are you now suddenly assuming it's risk based investment? I don't think anyone suggested it is.

>Edit: Also - this is specifically referencing cash equivalent investments, which further colors that return as unusually high in the context of comparison to a 3.3% U.S. HYSA yield.

Why are you saying US again? The person who quotes 5.89% is specifically NOT in the US, and said that clearly in the same sentence even.

They said: "Personally, my cash yields 5.89% but that's not in USA."

400 kWh in one month is 400/30= 1.33 kWh per day = 54 Watts per hours on average. That is one electric lamp or "drain" from TVs, chargers, computers and your refrigerator.

You can buy one of those "kill-a-watt" tools and see the usage of say refrigerator or computer.

Your electricity provider (with a smart meter) may also have your usage hour by hour...

You didn’t need a new car at your age, period. A great thing about the service is the financial counselling — take advantage of it. Learn from the mistakes of millions of servicemembers who messed up before you.

Good thought, but being in the military alone will give me all the credit I need. What is the down side to owning the car outright and just keeping it as long as I can (beside the fact that it depreciates)?

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I can't tell if this is serious or sarcasm, but no I volunteered but the reality of it didn't set in until I got my ship date after meps, I just think this car is going to be a waster of time and money once I start my life somewhere else, plus I won't need a car in a submarine.

Keep the vehicle.

If no one will be driving the vehicle (family/friends) then talk to your insurance and tell them the situation. They can give you "storage" insurance (or whatever it's called), which is significantly cheaper.

Not sure if there is much you can do about the car payment. Keep the car lets you leverage your credit and begin building the credit history for future purchases.

You'll get a much cheaper price going through an mvno (reseller) than through the big brands. Boost uses ATT or T-mobile (my line using T-mobile 5G is $26/month, ask to be sure you get the one you want). Straight talk uses Verizon (the $35 or $45 plan is unlimited everything) the service/speeds are good in my area, NW Georgia. Most plans aren't negotiable these days, standard pricing is online. You usually get a discount each month for using autopay and ebills. Ask people you know who they like service with if you're open to not using ATT.

I've only had it since September, is it too early, could anything in my contract prevent this.

Adding a line to an existing plan will always be cheaper than getting your own. Ask them if they would be open to you paying them for the additional line? If not, the key is to continously change carriers. Other carriers will offer new customers discounts, and all carriers take advantage of the natural aversion to change we all feel.

Were you drafted?

Carvana and Carmax buy it on the spot. Check with them to see how much you get for it.

Aldi and HEB. I try and go generic as much as I can.

I'm thinking of using my income tax to do this. Pay for my insurance and anything I can yearly to get a discount. As for streaming I can probably cut those out. The only thing I really feel my wife and I use daily is YouTube red as it doubles as music streaming.

2 to 3 years is not a long period of time. While market returns can be higher over long periods of time we're definitely in a very volatile economy right now.

You could try some CD laddering and HYSAs while the rates are at an all time high. The key thing is to diversify your investments while reducing risk. Your down payment needs to be quickly accessible if you find a house that you want to buy.

Government bonds are also a very safe investment and with the rates at a very high peak, you can buy up some bonds and sell them off at a profit when the rates return to lower values

Go for the smaller groups like Comcast, cricket

This total also includes out toiletries like toilet paper shampoo washing detergent etc. About $50 is allocated to dog food.

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also regarding the grocery bill, which store do you shop at? because you can save a lot of money by switching to offbrand items or stores like aldi/ruler foods/etc rather than big stores like Trader Joe’s/Target/Kroger etc

400 kw is not really a lot, particularly if you're in an older building in a cold climate. Is your heat at 55° 24/7 even when you're home?

Will and life insurance with fiancée as the beneficiary to pay off the mortgage, if the concern is she won’t be able to remortgage it.

The general rule of thumb is that you should hang on to your money for as long as possible when paying expenses, unless there is some advantage to pre-paying. For example, if your landlord offered an 8% discount for prepaying for 1 year, that might be worth it, because that's a guaranteed cost reduction versus a potential gain on investment value in the same period.

You don't want to turn over your money before you absolutely have to because you cannot predict the future.

• What if you have to move before the lease is up?
• What if the building burns down?
• What if your landlord fails to properly account for the pre-payment and starts charging you rent again?

In all of these scenarios, your position is improved by having the money in your possession.