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I was just looking back at my records and I actually filed W-4 for the job that has work related expense stuff. I was a temp employee hired as a garbage loader. I rode on the back of the garbage truck and walked down our streets dumping all the trash cans. Im talking jackets, boots, gloves, hats, face protectors etc(I worked Sep-March) That would count right? And Im not sure if it was a W-2 or W-4 in the past, but I worked as a machine operator and all all of that kind of stuff got me a deduction(particularly winter jacket, boots, work gloves that we went thru daily). It's what encouraged me to save receipts and everything the whole year.

>I own the house with my sister as we purchased it in 2018 before prices skyrocketed

So, is this sister one who is not currently working?

There is a saying around this sub: "don't set yourself on fire to keep others warm".

You're 25. You have your whole life ahead of you, but you simply cannot let non-working adult-age siblings live in a house *you* own and are paying for.

Anyone of working age who isn't paying rent needs to be evicted yesterday. And not trying to be rude, but even at $15/hour, if your parents aren't making enough to handle $1300 dollars a month, they aren't working enough.

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Technically, none.... sort of.

The deadline for contributing to a Traditional IRA for tax year 2022 is April 18th, 2023.

The convention is to make the Roth conversion as immediately as possible to avoid incurring taxes -- if the after-tax T-IRA contribution grows from 6000 to 7123.56 between the contribution and the conversion, then you need to pay taxes on the difference.

No one can tell you what your life will be like. It's likely you'll have a lower salary if you don't go to college, but it's by no means guaranteed. Don't take "average person" advice. No one is average.

However, focusing on a career path and not switching back and forth will help employability as you approach 50. Aside from that: life is what happens while you're busy making other plans.

Well one house is new construction with a builder and home warranty, the other house has a brand new roof, hvac, and AC. So I'm sort of being strategic in that regard. I know a major repair could be rough, so I'm sort of hedging those bets.

You will get a 1099 for this work. You’ll owe self employment tax plus income tax. SE tax is 15.3%. Income tax is dependent on your other income and situation. Don’t forget state tax if you live in a state that has income tax.

>what kind of percentages, rates, etc. can I use to maybe see what I can expect?

None of us can say as we know nothing about your tax situation.

FYI the better business bureau is an independent review site like Yelp. It is not a government agency.

Capital One is extremely forgiving and will nearly always let you back in. You're thinking of issuers like Chase/Amex/Citi, and even then there are ways back.

It is time consuming but I think it will help keep me accountable more so. I thought mint required a bank to be attached. I’ll have to check it out again

Sometimes the short term (which even 10 years is) can show the opposite of long term expectations.

>The world has changed since 2012, and my investing approach has changed with it.

I've seen more than a few times that "the most dangerous words in investing are 'this time is different.'"

>but have changed my opinion since Value has lagged SO far behind growth for a very long time.

See my first sentence.

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That's not a salary job, if you're filling out a W-9 you're being paid gross with no taxes taken out and you're a contractor.

You should file your quarterly taxes for the current quarter (Q4)

>Ive also kept a detialed list, more detailed than any previous reporting year of all of my work-related expenses (clothing and gloves for the first job. Gas and mileage for one of my current jobs).

If those are related to W2 work none of those are deductible expenses.

You may find these links helpful:

• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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167k, equity at 151k

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You don't have to answer this publicly but if I were in your shoes, here are the tough questions I would be asking myself:

Do I have other things I will need to purchase through debt (most notably a home) in the next few years? Is the car the only problem or is full bankruptcy a better LONG TERM solution? What other controllable expenses (credit card payments, non-essential spending, subscriptions, etc) do I need to get under control? What does my income growth look like for the next few years and how do I change that if it isn't growing? How much has to change for me to be able to consistently save money every month?

I also think that everyone should read the book The Richest Man in Babylon . It is a super easy read but teaches some great fundamentals on which to build your financial future.

OK, well, FWIW the title asks for bankruptcy advice, so...

It wrecked havoc on my credit for a while. The irony is it's easier to reestablish credit after a Ch 7, which wipes out your debt but stays on your report for like 10 years, than it is after a Ch 13, where you actually pay back what is owed. Because you can't file Ch 7 very frequently (7yrs? 10 yrs? something like that...) I had to work hard to prove myself credit-worthy. Started with secured cards, and went from there. Keeping my auto loan helped tho. And it's been close to 20 yrs ago, so it's long since gone from my reports. It was painful...but if I recall correctly, the total payment to the bk trustee was around what I was just paying for my monthly car note. So it worked out for me. As always, your/her MMV

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You can use mint to just log transactions you don't have to link any banks. Could also setup quickbooks to work like this as well. That sounds endlessly time consuming but you do you.

> maxing tax advantages

any retirement/investment account that gives a tax advantage has a yearly contribution limit

so when they ask if you have maxed your tax advantaged space they mean have you put $20,500 in your 401k (TSP), $6,000 in a Roth IRA, $3850 in a HSA, $8000 in a 529, etc.

paying low to no taxes now isn't relevant, its the account that provides tax advantages now or in the future or both, regardless of your current tax situation

We’ve got a far policy through Navy Mutual in addition to our SGLI. I was advised to get 10x your annual income. I figure that if I kick the bucket early, my family will be set for the next decade OR have 10 years to get their shit together financially.

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