At 37, I’d be looking strongly at prioritizing retirement. But a lot also depends on how stable your job is. Take a look at the prime directive in the wiki in the sidebar.

Utilize an attorney to get this done properly. The fact that you have a surviving sibling whom you wish to exclude could open this to challenges if not done right. Make sure you've got an executor in place as well, who knows your wishes - you won't want that role defaulting to your sister either.

In terms of the Humane Society, most good-sized charities and non-profits will have specialists who work with what is called "Planned Giving." Those are the folks you'll want to work with (along with your attorney) to sort out the details of what will be most useful and beneficial to them. They'll have a process, and likely will have worked with similar donations in the past.

That makes sense. I have had a 401k with all previous employers so it always came out of the paycheck. Now I don’t, hence the confusion.

It's in line with the 100 year average after inflation.

How much I'll have by my retirement age. I plan to start maxing out and then some by taking advantage of the after tax match/contributions

Thanks

>The coupon is 0 and the current yield is a dash (-) but Ask Yield to worst and Maturity is 4.472%. Does that mean that you will get 4.742% return on the 6 months for the treasury bill?

Treasury Bills are zero coupon, which means that they do not pay interest.

However, you normally purchase them at a discount to their face value (redemption value). In this case, you can pay $97.752 for a $100 Bill that matures on June 29, 2023. You pay $97.752 now and the Treasury pays you $100 in June.

This $2.248 of profit in six months is equivalent to a 4.742% annual yield. There is no catch - this is the going rate for the US Treasury to borrow $100 from you for six months.

https://www.irs.gov/retirement-plans/ira-deduction-limits

An IRA has nothing to do with your employer, or your payroll.

You are confused how taxes work: your paycheck withholding is not your tax, it is an estimate based ont the information you give your employer (remember form w4?, that was you telling them how much tax you think you owe). If that was incorrect, it is corrected at the end of the year (that’s your tax return, where you are refunded extra tax paid, or pay more if you didn’t pay enough). If you make an IRA contribution, you write it on your tax return to claim it as pre tax.

If you want your employer not to withhold tax on your IRA contribution, you can put that on you w4. Otherwise, you will get back any overpayment at the end of the year. In either case, it is “pre tax.” It’s just a question of when you notice the extra money.

Works exactly the same as income tax brackets. 0% on first 1676, then 15%.

You didn't account for standard deduction here but just overlooking that for simplicity

I'd suggest Fidelity or Schwab. I'd also suggest reading the investing wiki and this submission.

The US housing market is a heterogeneous data set for which a single statistic is a completely inadequate metric. At a minimum you need to include acknowledgment that 50% of homes sold for less than the median. But really you need to break it down by region and look at both median and standard deviation within each region.

Put another way, median is not synonymous with floor.

Thanks, can you point me to eligibility criteria?

Play around with a capital gains tax calculator.

It will help solidify your understanding:

• https://smartasset.com/investing/capital-gains-tax-calculator

> I pay 0% on $1,676 of my capital gains, and only pay 15% on the $324 in capital gains that pushes me over the $41676 income threshold?

This is the correct version.

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You cannot contribute from a paycheck, your employer has absolutely nothing to do with your IRA

Yea I know, it just makes my spreadsheets and countdown to retirement look sad, but I know progress is being made

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I'd recommend reading the Prime Directive article from the wiki. It'll help you prioritize any extra money you have.

No, you claim a tax deduction (if eligible) for those contributions when you file your tax return, which turns them into pre-tax.

> stash your money under your mattress like grandma taught you

This is, unfortunately, the wrong conclusion to draw from this experience.

First, the charge was not waived. You were provided a provisional credit or temporary removal of the charges while an "investigation" can be performed.

Sometimes these "investigations" are cursory at best (at least initially) and it seems that many of the bigger banks do tend to rule against the customer (again, at least initially).

Often a reason is provided. Often you are allowed to contest the decision.

It is at this point that you may be asked to submit further documentation. This may include an affidavit attesting that the charges were fraudulent. This may include a copy of a police report.

If all that fails to result in a satisfactory conclusion, then moving to government regulatory agencies may be considered. This would include the CFPB.

As to stashing money, "under your mattress" will lead to financial inefficiency.

Instead, you should be following the Prime Directive.

• https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

Military generally does offer these services. However, the individuals providing these services do not generally have training in personal finance as financial advisors. The individuals you normally see utilizing these services are younger service members who blow their whole paycheck on cars, alcohol, trying to live off base without the allowance.

If you're talking about tax preparation help, you want a CPA. Generally, I'd suggest starting by asking your coworkers and perhaps your manager if they have a CPA they'd recommend. Friends in a vaguely similar financial situation are also a good source for recommendations.

A good number of CPAs also provide financial planning services. You could try looking for a CPA that is also a CFP or a CPA with the FPS credential.

If you don't really need or want help with tax preparation, I would just find a fee-only CFP.

The financial advisors wiki article has more advice.

I'd also suggest checking the PF wiki to start your own education. There are a lot of articles to read, but the Prime Directive is a good place to get started.

You left off where his co workers cheered as he was escorted off the property.

Mine will randomly drop 40-50 points, then go back to where it was the next cycle. I haven't figured out what causes it. Unless I let my utilization pass some low threshold or something.