Yes. 401k first and foremost. Max it out

Are you not able to deduct your traditional IRA contributions on your 1040?

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What type of "bumper-to-bumper" warranty is this? Assuming it's a used car that is outside of the manufacturer's warranty, you're going to have a hard time getting the warranty company to pay out for anything. By all means try and fight them to get as much money as you can, but most of those warranties aren't worth the paper they're printed on.

As far as getting anything reimbursed for rental cars, there's probably nothing you can do there. Shops aren't required to give you loaner vehicles. It's a nice perk when they do, but you aren't owed anything if they don't give you one.

Assuming the goal here is to get the car fixed - there isn't much you can do aside from taking the car to a different shop that is capable of fixing it in a reasonable amount of time. Clearly this shop isn't interested in working on the car. Continuing to wait on this shop to get their shit together is probably going to be a waste of time that results in more financial hardship as they misdiagnose things and require you to continue paying for a rental vehicle.

I’m thinking of either doing something in math/physics or even maybe engineering (I have some time to decide), so I could see myself looking for a career through research teams. I know a lot of people who just finished with their bachelor’s and ended up doing something in finance/banking, but this might be somewhere where I need an extra year or two of grad school.

You may find these links helpful:

• Roth or Traditional
• General Information on Rollovers
• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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So whats the 6K that the wiki mentions while talking about IRA's?

6500 in 2023

>The Little Book of Common Sense Investing by John Bogle

This is actually on my to read list. Thank you!

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Maybe try this? https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ag.state.mn.us/consumer/handbooks/mncarlaws/CH3.asp&ved=2ahUKEwiC2Z_jv6T8AhVxN30KHWswDEoQFnoECBIQAQ&usg=AOvVaw24y1SATmbk8b9O4rVsO0ER.

Interesting, I have a solid path to research REITs now, thank you!

Edit: looks like you are right, a brokerage account is what I am looking for. Thank you!

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I set it up with extra cash from various windfalls. I've been blindly contributing to my 401K since starting employment and admittedly need to use a better strategy for that account. Should I maximize my 401K contributions before contributing to any other brokerage accounts?

Thank you! Yes, I’m hoping anything at this point, just need more money coming in.

in minnesota, doesn’t seem like we have anything like that :/

About $16,000 in auto, personal and credit cards.

If you plan to hold the stocks long term in a taxable account, you should prefer to buy on/after the ex-dividend date.

Hi there,

The fact that you're saving is arguably the best advice anyone can give you, so good job and keep it up!

The question of where to put your money now that you've maxed out your Roth IRA, you have quite a bit of options. I'd say the easiest and probably most effective is to open up a Brokerage account through a large name like Fidelity and invest in VOO or some other low-cost S&P based product. REITs are a good option, you just need to research the product, performance, and fees.

I'd say don't put any more money into your mortgage than you need to unless you 'really' hate the thought of having debt. 3.5% is the lowest you'll likely ever see it and REITs, mutual funds, ETFs (even safer ones than VOO) have historically outperformed 3.5%, easily. You already have the house and giving another dollar to the mortgage goes straight to the bank and you'll never see that money again. I would use that dollar to have interest work 'for' you rather than against you.

Other investment options like Cash Value Life Insurance or buying an investment property can be good options, but require a lot of research, which is something you would have to ask yourself if you want to invest the time.

Hope this helps!

Don't overthink it. Every broker has stock screener and you can look for stocks that have historically paid dividends. Within that bucket, look for stocks you like. The quality of the company you're buying is more important than the dividend.

Start the screen with dividend paying stocks, find companies you like within that category, buy then and set your account to reinvest dividends. Done.

Alternatively, there are plenty of funds that specialize in dividend paying stocks and do this for you.

There are some great answers here, with different opinions. There is no one "right" answer. The main thing is that you need to be comfortable with your risk level.

Fidelity does their research to put together good options. Your employer selects what they think are good options to make available to you. It is designed to make money, but we can't know what the market is going to do.

My "advice" would be to keep it simple so that you understand it and are comfortable. With 20 years to go, I would dump it all into an SP500 index, but that's me. You'd have some highs and some lows. You'd need to be comfortable with that.

Standard advice would be a fairly aggressive split between stocks and bonds, based on your age/time to retirement. You could follow that on your own, or Target date funds will do that for you. Put it all into a target date fund and forget it.

Bureau of Automotive Repair is a state agency that handles this sort of issue in California, I'd imagine similar agencies are available in other states. However if you're outside of the US, then I'm not too sure.

In case someone didn't already say it, are those monthly payments just P&I (principle and interest), or do they include escrow too? Make sure to include insurance and property taxes in your budgeting.

I am also siding with the folks that say your job is too new to feel safe signing a mortgage yet. But, if you feel confident in replacing this job quickly with one that pays enough to cover the home costs, then go for it.

The Roth IRA doesn’t reduce taxes. You put money in that’s already been taxed and it grows tax free.

I like your way of thinking. Definitely better to have the saving and a safety net than zero to no minimal debt but no savings. There will always be expenses some way or another.