Why are you using a taxable brokerage account for investing when you haven't maximized your tax advantaged accounts?

Most probably he is going for long term plans, i might also be wrong.

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4-week T-bills are paying almost 4% right now, so I've moved some e-fund money into a 4-week T-bill ladder. I've got some longer-term e-fund money in savings bonds which are between like 6.5-9.5% right now.

I’d put every dime in VINIX and forget about it for 15 years.

No, try to keep your housing to less than a third of your income. Don’t enable garbage luxury apartments either

It is an intro APR that expires in March. I’m planning on paying it off by the end of February.

My HYSA saving account currently has a a higher interest rate than the private loan, so I’ll definitely get a better return saving.

I think I will focus on saving more instead of aggressively paying the private student loan, especially I pay the CC off.

Yield is yield. A 10% growth, no dividend yield is the same as a 3% dividend and 7% growth. Plus, the added benefit of not being forced into a taxable event, if within a taxable account.

You never want to "buy the dividend" it's a net zero and taxable, again if within a taxable account.

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Is commission guaranteed? How are you going to afford this place if your commission stops or slows? Your GUARANTEED pay is $200 more than rent. Maybe consider going somewhere cheaper.

Get a brokerage account and save there. REITs throw off a lot of taxable income. Better to hold a REIT index in the IRA and hold stock index funds in the brokerage account. If you own the stock market or the S&P 500 you already own a bit of the most productive and profitable real estate on Earth, making REITs somewhat redundant. Don't put too much of your savings in REITs unless you need the current income.

I’m familiar with both methods as I used the Snowball method to pay off the previous CC debt. My credit is great currently 750+, plus I have no plans for a major purchase in the next couple years, minus a car. My DTI is already pretty low.

been accumulating Luna earlier this year, and got my bag close to 300 prior to crashing, avg buy in the mid-60's. Then after the crash, bought the dip and got 1000000+ Luna for like $60.

I assume a capital loss needs to be realized for cases like this? I went ahead and sold 300 Luna just incase (at 99.999....% loss lol)

> then I won't see any return for more time.

You will see return, just not "forcibly realized return".

Dividend distribution is a forced taxable income, whether you want it or not, whether you are in 15% tax rate or worse.

Totally agree I don’t have anywhere enough saved to move, especially given inflation. My saving account has a higher interest rate(close to 0.5% higher) than the private loan.

It’s up in the air if I’ll stay with this company, but I think another two years is unlikely. I’m not even sure if they’ll allow me to stay on remote as I currently work hybrid.

Is 3% a good amount to save despite not getting the match?

In a Roth you should be more aggressive. I would recommend buying Vanguard US small cap growth ETF (VBK). VTI is great, but I personally want to maximize growth in a Roth account, so when I take withdrawals it comes tax free!

Thanks, this is definitely good advice.

To be conservative your monthly mortgage payment should not exceed 30 percent of your take home pay. The rule of thumb is actually based on your gross income but by being conservative you have more wiggle room to account for homeowners insurance, possible HOA, regular maintenance, utilities, property taxes, etc. It's not just about the mortgage for home ownership.

What's your income? You might not be able to deduct traditional IRA contributions if you make more than a certain limit. If this is the case, you use Roth IRA instead.

In that case, I'll have to re-evaluate my reasoning. I think the base of it still holds, but now if I buy stock right before the ex date, I'll be buying it at local maxima point. On the other hand, if I buy it right after the payout, it will be lower, but then I won't see any return for more time.

Does anyone have a spreadsheet template for savings buckets or sinking funds? My HYSA doesn't have the buckets feature, but I want to start doing it that way.

I'm not sure exactly what I want out of it, so hoping to peep a pre-existing one.

There is a zero intro rate for remaining cc debt that expires in March. I should be able to pay it off by the end of February.

I agree, I lucked out with the interest rates on the student loans. Especially given inflation, they’re really good.

Ira and hsa. Then maybe. Megabackdoor Roth. Then taxable

Don't sell VOO. Just keep DCA during this bear market. Take advantage of its discounted price. Time in the market beats timing the market.

I’m 33, 25k in a TSP and 30k in a 401k