I don’t have one of those. How might I open one? Is it too late for this year?

All of these simple but very effective factors, that really does matters.

If Someone is really cautious before investing and care of these things, then he would be most probably in a good place.

Research Chapter 13 bankruptcy. I did it years ago. It's kind of like a debt restructuring. I reaffirmed on my auto loan, which was for a Toyota I purchased new. The court basically took all my confirmed debt, lumped it together and divided by 60. I was able to pay it off early, and most importantly kept my automobile, which I needed to get to my job.

> Other info: -We’re in our 30s -Husband makes a good income (above $130k)

If you file jointly, you can contribute the max amount to your traditional or Roth IRA.

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If I were in your shoes I'd probably be shitting my pants and immediately start working as many hours as I can. The amount of interest accruing on those cards has to be gut wrenching.

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I think your more in the $1300-1500 rent range.

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I would absolutely forget about the rural house - you don't like anything about it except the price. It sounds like it's also a bank foreclosure which could mean issues with big ticket repair items. Mediocre schools are the cherry on top - it would be a shame to move your daughter to a poor district when she is so close to finishing K-12.

The $282K house may be a bit of a stretch financially at current interest rates, but your income should grow and you can always refinance when rates drop. You also won't have to deal with a ton of maintenance issues right away since it's a new build (you hope, anyway). Keep your lifestyle spending at the same level as it was when you were making $60K and you should be fine.

Good questions. The target date funds will provide ample diversification and you have access to really good target date funds. If you want to be more aggressive you can select a target date that is 10 years beyond your actual desired retirement date.

Ideally you want fees that are at 0.10 or lower. I'd recommend not going above 0.50 for any funds.

How many months’ expenses does that $10k EF represent?

Do you have additional savings in the form of Sinking Funds (for home / vehicle maintenance, vehicle replacement, clothing, child activities, etc)? If so, what do those funds amount to?

Are you saving for retirement? How much is currently there & what are your monthly contributions?

If you get the EF up to 6mo expenses and you have well-funded sinking funds and retirement is on track… you could possibly consider a different house. With interest rates double what you currently have, I doubt it would be any bigger unless you go much, much further out from the city - at which point you might struggle to find a small enough lot to keep it affordable. Perhaps as you save they will creep down a bit more, but I wouldn’t anticipate seeing sub-4% rates again for many many years. Low housing expenses offer your family a ton of security & flexibility, particularly while raising several children.

Keeping eye on this

Seems like right now is a highly emotional time for you with the recent breakup and you think you should "treat" yourself to this apartment. Once you move in and realize half of your income is going to an apartment that you don't own and aren't building equity into you'll hate yourself.

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You aren't factoring into losing 3 months of that interest as a penalty when they withdrawal.

It's also not 6% for the whole year. It adjusts every 6 mo.

Current mortgage rates are also not 8%.

All around bad advice.

May I ask why he isn’t looking? It sounds like you do a lot of the childcare, which should leave him better positioned for large changes like that.

Are you living off that $2500 and making minimum payments on your cards?

If you're serious about paying off your CC's you'll get a second job driving Uber, deliver pizza, or whatever you can find and put ALL that money towards your credit cards.

You can go high interest debt first, which is the best way financially. Or you can use the debt snowball method which is paying down the credit card that has the least amount of debt then moving on to the next card with the lowest balance.

Also, which ever method you choose, make sure your still making minimum payments on the other cards.

Start with the highest interest card and pay all the extra you can, while making the minimum payments on the other cards. When that's paid off...rinse and repeat.

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Yeah but he could of been teetering a few % extra being taken and the loss of 10 hrs of o.t will definitely be noticable was all I was saying because there's a huge difference in my checks between 50 hrs and 40hrs

I would think this could be grounds for a charge dispute from your bank. Show a picture of the dollar fee to bank as well as the reciept. In addition show that the HOA or payment company dont see this. The bank should rescind the whole transaction. Then just fight with HOA about the payments.

Changing the present value of the loan from $100k to $75k calculates a completely different payment, so you can't CUMIPMT in that way. Paying extra on a loan reduces the number of payments, so you could use NPER to calculate the number of periods with a given payment, then calculate CUMIPMT of the original loan between that period and 360 months. That amount is your savings.

However, I question the reasoning behind your goal. Calculating cumulative interest over 30 years ignores the time value of money and gives a misleadingly large amount. The present value of the interest payments should be how you compare the two scenarios.