I'd prefer the wiggle room of 100k, but $30-$50k would accomplish my goals I think.

Thanks! Will keep Capital One and Citi on my list.

You want unsecured credit line? How much are you looking for?

Here's some reading for you:

• https://thefinancebuff.com/how-to-rollover-an-hsa-on-your-own-and-avoid-trustee-transfer-fee.html

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Absolutely not. What happens if you get laid off or budget cuts are made? When commission doesn't come in for a few months?

There's way too much risk here when you're stuck in a year long lease.

What about all the furniture you'll need? Monthly utilities? Renter's insurance? All the other little things start to add up once you move out.

I bonds are also different from Treasury Bills and have different rules. They can both be solid options.

The answer, formally, is that the IRS has not yet issued any ruling on that problem, and so nobody actually knows whether that could become a problem.

The practical answer is that it is so easy to find alternatives that still have essentially perfect correlation, that it is not really worth taking a risk on it.

If only timing the market was that easy. Your best bet is to ignore the noise and follow the steps in the Prime Directive.

More on market timing:

• Warren Buffett: "to buy or sell on current news is just crazy"

• Burton Malkiel, author of A Random Walk Down Wall Street: "market timing is dangerous"

Remember that you're investing for the next 30-40 years, not trying to predict the Dow next week, next month, or next year.

You can have pre-existing accounts. As long as you have no pretax balance in any IRA in your name (except inherited IRAs), you can do backdoor Roth cleanly. You can re-use existing accounts as many times as you want.

Is there a problem with having too many cards? Provided there's no fees, there's no issue to leave them dormant after you've used them for their bonus, right?

I'd suggest asking this on /r/medicine or perhaps on the White Coat Investor forum.

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Depends on what you're talking about.

But generally untrue.

Just like bank loyalty doesn't really matter.

There exists products where you deposit a certain sum of money to collateralize a loan. But that is unlikely what you are referring to.

You have a pre-existing Traditional IRA?

Or do you have a pre-existing Roth IRA?

It's the presence of a pre-existing Traditional IRA (sourced from deductible contributions) that presents an issue. Having a pre-existing Roth IRA doesn't matter.

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I like this but not sure if you can do it with $13k savings. Plus DTI won’t work.

Do you have any money already in an existing traditional IRA?

If yes, you'll run afoul of the pro-rata rule, which is what I think you're worried about.

If all your IRA funds are in a Roth IRA, you're fine.

> would let you effectively contribute more (if you want to) because you are contributing with after-tax money

This is really the wrong way to think about this (basically, what you're saying is at best technically true).

1. You're ignoring the tax savings from contributing to a Traditional that result in more income which can then be invested, used to pay down debt, etc. Only if you spend it on ephemeral stuff does that money "disappear".

2. The goal with the "Roth vs. Traditional" decision should really be made based on whatever nets you the most money to spend in retirement. For most high earners, that's almost certainly Traditional. Read Roth or Traditional for a longer discussion.

(tagging /u/hankmoody666)

Max out 401k. Put every other $ for house into hysa at 4% and don't play with it. Every other $ that is free use in a taxable account and start buying schd. Don't complicate things.

Your goal right now is to maximize earnings thru your job. That's where the bulk of your early to mid career wealth will come from. The late part of your wealth will be from assets and equities that you built up over time.

>I’m 24 years old and make $110K

Traditional makes sense for high income earners like you.

> A few thousand in extra savings by using the traditional would help, but my house savings would not really require this as I’m quickly reaching my goal of $100K for a down payment.

You can take the extra thousands in savings, toss it into a regular brokerage account and let it ride in VOO. More invested is always better.

You may find these links helpful:

• Roth or Traditional
• General Information on Rollovers
• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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I said total loss in reference to stocks or something like that where I could easily lose money. With $50 a month, it wouldn't be the end of the world. I plan to put other money in a HYSA, help pay off debt and other things. I'm not sure what you're saying in your last point.

With most index, you probably could. With sp500, no, they are identical. Just switch to vti or vv

No it doesn't.