Ah, good point. I make $75k pre-tax.

My home has appreciated due to updating our kitchen and being close to an area of regentrification--although how much it's worth now I don't formally know.

Basically my wife wants to have a bigger yard for our family/boys and to get away from some neighbors, an extra room since I've been WFH, etc. However, I think this is more of a long-term home if not a forever home due to the financials.

See this page for purchases through tomorrow. You do not qualify for a credit.

https://www.irs.gov/credits-deductions/manufacturers-and-models-for-new-qualified-clean-vehicles-purchased-in-2022-and-before#:~:text=If%20you%20bought%20a%20new,Internal%20Revenue%20Code%20Section%2030D.

As someone else mentioned, you need to have a frank discussion with your partner. Generally speaking, when you co-own the house, you split it 50/50. Keep that in mind for future earnings, career goals, etc. Over time, there will also be substantial financial obligations for the home as well. How do you plan to pay for larger expenses such as a 10-15k roof, AC etc.?

For a personal anecdote, my wife and I’s income is close, but still about 60/40 (e.g., I make a bit more to provide 60% of our household income). If shit hits the fan, we split the house straight down the middle. My rationale was easy: if we did split up, I’d have a lot more to worry about than the house.

From what I read you got a fat discount from chevy for buying that and you don’t get any credits for 2022. And you don’t get any for 2023 because you bought the car in 2022

Who do you work for? Id like to apply ty

Shes paying the mortgage or the rent the same amount regardless of whether or not you are there. You are not a causitive factor in her inability to manage her finances other than she likely guilt trips you into constant loans. Cut it off now before it gets any worse. She needs to sink or swim.

You sound like you would be responsible enough to have a cash back credit card that you pay off in full every month.

Try to build up your credit to where you qualify for something like the citi mastercard 2% cash back. Hoard those reward points until cybermonday and buy gift cards at a discount on something you would buy anyways which could be a hit or a miss although you can always use those reward points to cash out or offset your bill.

As for not stressing about spending money just focus of the value buys that cost more but last longer. Besides that start saving for retirement by opening a roth ira and seeing if your employer offers a 401k match.

What analysis have you performed to conclude that going completely Roth 401k would be better for you over Traditional 401k?

What's your plan if you experience an emergency before the EF is able to be replenished?

What about maintain the EF as is and then contribute to the Roth IRA over time? (as opposed to the other way around)

You can contribute the full thing in one day or you can spread it out. "Too much" is if you contribute so much that you don't have enough to pay for your housing/food/bills/etc.

she's keeping a roof over my head though

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Ah, well good job not being a part of the Maine brain drain then. I went to USM which was certainly one of the decisions I've ever made.

You may find these links helpful:

• Retirement Accounts
• "How to handle $"

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Easy. Tell mom you aren't going to lend her your money that you earned anymore. She's an adult right? Shes had a long enough life to learn how to be an adult, dont you find out odd she cant handle money and has to rely on her son?

My math was admittedly simple but illustrates a point. If I invest $1,000 a year for 10 years and a marginal 6% return, a fee of 0.04% is about $31, that's not enough to make a meaningful difference. Source . It's probably not worth fretting over.

> would you recommend someone roll money from an IRA (with good low ER funds) into TSP or a 401k? Why or why not?

No, because it probably wouldn't make a big difference.

But, it depends on the fees. In my experience, funds in IRAs tend to be higher than those in 401ks, and are usually much higher than 0.04%. That's why I argue that 401ks and the tsp are superior in many cases. Large employers have negotiating power to demand low fees. Individual investors don't get that same luxury. This is of course not universally true.

My only argument here is your statement that IRAs 'easily beat' a 401k. Funds in a 401K will often match or beat an IRA in terms of fees. I have both. I've had to go through this decision multiple times.

The wiki explains it very well. If you have specific questions, feel free to ask them. Saying "explain" however is not a specific question.

If it's not second nature after 10 years, it's not for you.

ik about budgeting but i was expecting like a straightforward explanation of a zero sum

Are you not just an Authorized User?

Withdrawing is rarely a good idea.

Just leave it Or roll it over

>Id stop the money lending prompto.

how when if it's somebody like my mom?

Per TurboTax individuals age 65+ and earning less than $14.7k (single) or $28.7k (married) may not need to file. https://turbotax.intuit.com/tax-tips/retirement/when-does-a-senior-citizen-on-social-security-stop-filing-taxes/L53Hx1v9W

Maybe I’m bad at math. Do you work 80 hrs a week and call that flexible? That’s like $185k gross, but last year you made $87k. Did you mean $187k but dropped off your most significant figure?

There's not enough information here for us to give you any sensible advice. Why do you want a new home? Has your old home appreciated at all? What is your annual income?

The "placed in service" date is the date to determine the applicable tax credit percentage. IRC section 25D(g).

The "when the original installation of the item is completed" date is the date to determine the taxable year to claim the tax credit. IRC section 25D(a)(1) and (e)(8)(A), with a minor exception specified in (e)(8)(B).

Pay attention to the cutoffs and phaseouts on retirement savings, etc. I'd absolutely get debt free too. Having a paid-off house is a fantastic feeling.