It could be an interlock that prevents the machine from sending water all over your kitchen by checking the latch. If the switch is bad, it might be stuck in the off position, as that would be the safest way to have it designed.

All I’m seeing is 1 1/2 to 2

…Do they have a 2” to 2 1/2”? Just use two adapters?

Here's a major clue. DON'T USE ANY QUICKSET MUD! It's a gigantic pain in the ass and should only be used by pros on a small job. Taping is more of an art than trade, as you need to feather and sculpt the wet mud to make the wall appear flat.

You'll never get rid of wood on wood movement 100% unless you glue the crap out of everything, but it is worth a try to give it a few screws here and there.

Remove trim, -adjust jam -shim -replace trim -caulk -done.

We actually have never attached this particular piece - At our old place there was a ceiling fan in the way so we never got around to attaching it (my girlfriend REALLY wanted this bed). I've figured the missing piece might be contributing to the trouble, but maybe I've been underestimating by how much. Thanks for this - I'll get this fixed first and see how much it helps.

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The 2 inch schedule 20 pvc used for central vacuum fits the 2 1/2 inch vacuum hose perfectly. From there the 1 1/2 scheduled 40 pvc should almost fit inside the central vacuum schedule 20 pvc. Depending on your application you can use hot glue or tape if the fit is not perfect. You can find schedule 20 at vacuum specialty stores.

u/JerseyWiseguy Thanks for the quick reply. What I was really looking for here was somebody to at least agree that I was on track. I know I will actually have to replace the valve to know for sure but I wanted to post here and see if somebody said something like "no way it's the valve, the dinglehopper is yer problem here"

Use a wet sponge! I like one you would do dishes with that has the scrub texture on one side. Make it pretty damp but not dripping. Way less messy than sanding

Hope you see this. This trick has saved me a million times and I hope it does the trick for you too.

Unscrew the dishwasher door and get the control panel off. The control panel connects to the dishwasher via a flat ribbon cable.

Clean the ends ribbon cable with a Staedtler white pencil eraser. Rub down the ribbon cable where it meets with the connector. You may see some corrosion there, or maybe not. It might not look like you're doing anything. But when you put it back together, the control panel works perfectly again!... For about 6 months, then you repeat the process for years until the door breaks from being unscrewed so many times. This has worked on my dishwasher and stove many many times.

Good luck.

Could be that the valve cartridge is going bad; that seems like the most-likely cause. But, no way to really know for certain, unless you actually replace it.

Now kiss

eat a bunch of sliced cheese in the individual packaging, then ball a bunch of the wrappers in your hands and stuff them in the cracks of the door

Just a thought. Are you setting your dryer to a point in its cycle where it should be heating?

I was testing my gas dryer and thought i had fucked it up, but it turns out that my dryer just tumbles near the end of the cycle. Make sure you are setting it to a part of the cycle where it heats up when you are testing it.

Have the same dishwasher, and had to replace my latch within the first six months.

That only applies to standardized farts containing 0.56 curic per square meter of air.

Dishwashers are incresibly simple machines if you exclude the PCB.

Your machine drains, so the drain pump works. Your machine fills, stops filling, and heats. So the magnetic valve that "lets the water in" works. Also whatever controls the amount of water (not familiar with your brand) likely also works. And the heating element is also fine.

The next thing hat would have to stat is the washing pump. But it doesnt. That could mean the pump has an issue. This is not unlikely, the can be damaged if something slipped your filter or evem if you wash lots of floury or similar stuff. Thats like sandpapering it for years. The pump is usually among the most expesive parts, but depending on what you got it might not be necessary to change the whole thing. Altough repairing a pump is kinda difficult if you never done it.

I dont really understand why you thing its the door latch? I dont know your brand and i'm not really a technician but the dishwashers I know have a simple on/off fuction in their door switch. "If door is open, do nothing" so it shouldnt even drain or fill if the latch was the issue. Again, not sure if that is true for your machine.

The wax definitely helped! My next thought was that some of the slats are SUPER tight fitting, so sanding down the connection points a bit might alleviate some of the tension. But I'm concerned this might create opportunities for movement which could work against me :) Alternatively I could physically screw the slats down to just minimize the movement entirely. I've got some work ahead of me this weekend...

there is no easy hard wire fix. smart bulbs would be the easiest. put an alexa in there and turn it on and off that way. you could also buy one of the "add on" remotes for ceiling fans and light fixtures to the light fixture wiring. then you could mount the remote to the wall and use it to turn the light on and off. that just requires wiring it into the top of the light fixture.

but smart bulbs would be my go to. i use them everywhere anyways.

Was the bed squeaky before the horizontal bracing snapped? Because if not then thats your problem. Horizontal sway is USUALLY the problem with squeaky beds, which is why tightening things up helps. But if it's missing that piece, the whole bed will be collectively less rigid, and therefore squeakier. If it still squeaks with that fixed, you could also try adding corner bracing of some kind. Anything that improves rigidity will reduce squeaking.

I was told by a structural engineer that when they changed the way pt lumber was made due to toxicity concerns it greatly reduced its lifespan - his estimate was that it typically lasts 10 yrs before it weakens due to environmental conditions, and in areas like the northeast that have constant freeze thaw cycles and wet seasons he trusts it for about 8. If you want your structure to last a long time it may be wise to use on of the many kinds of post base connectors or brackets.

In the northeast we typically detail 12” of crushed stone, footing above, leave a couple inches exposed above grade or soil line min., and if possible taper the footing top to avoid water sitting against the post, doesn’t have to be too dramatic but just a soft pitch away.

Our frost line is 4’ so I’m guessing you’re something similar where you are.

I've used an adjustable bit in my drill press and wood for a lot of adapters.

That was also my first questing. Heck. Here even most in house doors have flanges... Fuck even my room door has a flange an a rubber seal... (Sound still travels because the installation was done by a diyer and he did not care to install a proper floor seal. But still... Like there is a small gap on the floor that is smaller than that gap ....

I work as a locksmith so I'm biased because I only get called for busted ones. No one calls me when it's working fine. But, when I do get these calls I dread them because it usually boils down to me telling them the parts and labor are going to come very close to the cost of a new door/frame. IMO the mechanism is just too complicated and has too many points of failure