Interesting, in the UK, they recommend 10ft from a building but this is purely a recommendation and I don’t believe there is any hard and fast rule in place.

I wouldn't raise it up to be completely level. If for some reason your patio floods, being an inch lower than the house can save your house. If it's level, the water will happily run right into your living room.

Well, water-based latex will not stick to oil based anything. It will go up and look like it's working. But it won't attached to it. Sherwin Williams has a primer called quick dry that is also stain blocking or even their extreme blocking primer. They're pricier if you're not a contractor. Know one? Ask them if you can use their account.

With this in mind, I’ll do a small patch with oil based primer and my intended (white-ish) paint color! Thank you for this info, I’ll see how it goes, hopefully it just sticks. This project is a temporary solution until we rip it out and put drywall up, funny how complicated it has turned out lol. I’m learning so much though! Thanks again.

There should not be an oil base on the wood paneling. If there is, the kilz wouldn't have stuck to it bc latex and oil don't play well since latex is water based. Can you peel the kilz off? If so. Then you'll have a problem. If that's the case, you'll need to get a hybrid primer that plays with both, after you strip your kilz off.

If it doesn't. You're in luck! Get a primer ment to block the bleed through like the person prior recommended and paint away. I'd recommend a gray primer if going dark on your latex color.

You could do well to combine two recommendations on the thread.

Put down a layer of duroroc or cement board, which will fill up a good chunk of the height for cheap. Then some self leveling compound for the remainder, which means a safer cheaper single 3/4 inch pour.

Then, instead of laminate, get wood effect tiles. Not much more expensive but totally waterproof

Minority opinion maybe: If the height difference is about an inch, it seems like a lot of work and expense to try to get it level.

If you do use adhesive tape on a textured panel, I would try to smooth out the taped area surface with a sanding disc, very carefully. Assuming this is a permanent setup you can grind off the top texture of the plastic for a better bond.

If you’re using 3M double face tape (3257) you can IPA wipe or pre-prime with primer (check the 3M website).

Clean the surface thoroughly to remove any oil or residue for the best bonding, no matter what you decide to use.

You can convert it to propane. There are rectangular (including square) fire pit inserts available, you just put fire (lava) rocks on top and you have your a small enough fire pit not to cause damage to nearby structures or overhangs. Just use common sense in any case about how large a fire you put in it. Technically, bricks, pavers, and rocks need to be specified for fire. I've used decorative rocks that weren't meant for a fire pit and they crack. They were even put in by professionals, they knew they might crack but weren't worried about the fire danger. Rocks and pavers can crack under heat but won't catch on fire.

Why would you mix bags of concrete?

I just read that Goo gone or WD-40 will do it. I guess I’ll find out one day.

Flippers gonna flip.

I know a guy who bought a house from flippers last year There was an undisclosed hot tub in the back yard in an at-grade concrete pad. They built a deck over it using untreated 2x4s, sloppily stained only on the top, and left the hot tub open underneath. When he finally found it, the hot tub was full of leaves and water and breeding mosquitos.

That fire pit looks like some random stuff arranged in the shape of a firepit for looks. There's moss in between those pavers!

B4 or shoulder pain and painter’s plastic/tape needed

Ahhhhh these kill me in rental houses. I'll find a 1600sqft house and I'm like perfect! Then I look at pictures and it turns out it's a 1350sqft house with a big enclosed patio they're trying to sell as a bedroom. Oh hell naw. Covered patios are not bedrooms.

I agree with the self leveling cement. Plywood's gonna probably gather moisture like crazy.

This is a good answer (upvoted!) but self-levelers are not easy. For any sizable pour it takes multiple people, preparation, coordination, and skill. Correcting mistakes are difficult.

If the floor is already level but just needs to be raised 3/4” or so then some kind of plywood or cement board underlayment is easier to DIY.

Drill a small hole just above ground level to let any water out. Then cap it to keep more rain from getting in.

Pics are always nice... But anyways to me the problem your raising is the least of it because if you're dealing with metal and your gate post is 10 units long but your post only goes into the ground 4 units deep, you might end up with the gate shaking loose simply because you don't have enough counterbalance going into the ground. I don't know what the formulas are involved but I imagine they're not too complicated. Re your other question pouring concrete into the upright is a decent idea to strengthen everything up.

Yes you need 'Restoration'. I had the same problem with bleed through and switching the primer did the trick.

I believe you should fill it with concrete. The reason is to lessen internal rust. If you just cap it there will be condensation on the inside. Adding concrete will lessen the condensation and remove a lot of the oxygen.

I’m using VHB to attach a new acrylic backboard to a metal frame. I believe VHB was used in the original application. There was nothing easy about removing the old tape and residue.

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