I believe so. You need a screw that fits in there. Then you can follow the procedure.

A grinder would work good to grind the unlevel ones flat and then you can lay the new ones on top. I wouldn't use glue to try and make up space because it will probably leak out before drying. I use use mortar if you didn't mind having a large joint under it.

I had it positioned the wrong way, I didn't understand how they worked before. I turned it around and it worked perfectly, thanks.

I am now. This explains why I was able to tighten but not loosen. Thank you, this worked perfectly.

There are rollers that create a wood grain look, but they can be finicky to get looking nice.

Can you drill one or new holes on the side of the white gear and put small screws in?

Similar to those tiny Allen screws on door handles?

Lots and lots of great responses here and I am honestly in shock at how much effort the community has gone into helping me

I will be back in work tomorrow morning and will investigate further about the actual pin that was already inside the white gear and see if its possible to get out

I really appriciate everyones guidance on this, I know very little about stuff like this, ask me anything IT ill give it a go, but stuff like this, might aswell be blind

I hate overhead showers. They're at every damn resort. My brother's guest bath too. You have to hunch over like you're crying out some trauma. I'm also tall and the standard shower height is far too low. I like your compromise.

A small dab of thread lock touching both the shaft and the gear might be enough to hold it, i have personally done this with a metal gear on a metal shaft a year ago and its still holding now lol but it depends on the torque and mechanical resistance i suppose. Is it only able to move towards the end of the shaft? Is there anything preventing it from moving in the opposite direction towards the other gear behind it?

No. It’s the Moen smart shower.

https://www.moen.com/smart-home/smart-shower

?

single pole GFCI breaker is not materially different than switching the load side of a single GFCI since he has a shared neutral and single shared breaker.

If it was a double pole GFCI and two circuits it would be different.

But in this single pole config, the circuit can't tell whether you have a GFCI breaker and switch the load downstream, or use a regular breaker + GFCI outlet and switch the load downstream of that.

It's the same exact circuit. You've just separated "thing providing overcurrent protection" from "thing detecting ground fault" instead of putting them in a single thing.

IE a GFCI breaker is the same as if you used a regular breaker and ran it all to a GFCI outlet next to the panel, and then ran everything downstream of that including the switch.

Switching in any of these cases (GFCI breaker, single GFCI + load switched beyond that, shared neutral and two GFCI's, etc) will likely cause nuisance trips, though the two former will probably be way worse than the latter.

Just throw a wedge in between the concrete wall and the back sides and push them out a little bit.

Are you aware that pipe wrenches have to be flipped over to switch from tightening to loosening?

My ice maker just stopped working last week. I read up on online and found there’s a reset button. Held it down until the fridge did a little jingle and within 48 hours had a full ice bucket again.

"Soft wash"

Also, protect yourself not to ingest asbestos into your GI tract. Don't get it in your mouth and swallow it because it can also provoke GI cancers

You should have enough room behind the flange of the dishwasher to use a piece of 1/2" all thread rod and a couple of wall plates which is what would mount to the floor and top ( may have to alter the plates some to keep them from sticking out. I would also check and see if that style of dishwasher would allow you to push a piece of 1/2" plywood up against it and then screw it to the top and floor.

By the time you do all that it would be better just to pull them up and relay them all with a proper base.

Or just don't worry about it.

Yeah a hard no on bleach. The only way to make that lighter would be to paint it. It is sawdust pressed together with binders and has a grain texture molded in. It will take several coats of primer and paint in most cases depending on what the outer sealant they used at the factory.

is that a thermostat in the shower?

I used to work for a company that does asbestos abatement. The thing about asbestos is that the particles are ultra fine. Like pass through any filter that isn’t HEPA with ease.

So, if you try to abate it yourself without complete saturation of the media, you will end up with the particles hanging around for a long time.

Mesothelioma from asbestos comes about from long term exposure. Most people do not have a problem with short term exposure.

Point is, if you’re going to remove any material that might contain asbestos, you better make damn sure it’s really wet all the way through.

Odds are the OP’s building was built after 1979-83 anyway, so it’s probably not a concern. Side note, asbestos has not been phased out in some parts of the world. So that assumption is not necessarily valid outside the U.S. or Europe.

Are you wanting to take the pipe out of the wall, or just the head?

You should be able to just unscrew the whole thing by just turning the assembly with your hands.

hth

Channel locks are handy. They bite harder the harder you twist

Imagine having earth at the outlet.

Then see my part where I say do it and flush out the area with mud