Recent comments in /f/DIY

WealthyMarmot t1_jaeae0j wrote

Odd. You probably need a pro to take a look. Could be simply main voltage sagging from the high draw and those LEDs are especially sensitive.

Is the oven neutral touching the lighting circuit's ground (they look close, can't tell if they're actually in contact)? If so, my wild theory is that it might be transferring enough current to cause thermal expansion under the lug where the lighting neutral and ground are double-tapped (very common but not a good idea BTW). That could theoretically loosen the lighting neutral's connection after a time and dim the lights. Normally the oven neutral wouldn't transfer enough current to matter, but aluminum combined with a loose connection could make the copper path more attractive.

But whoever gets in there will probably find a more boring explanation. Good luck.

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InterestingTruth7232 t1_jaeaay8 wrote

Yea the Sheetrock will do a bit smoothing out inconsistencies. Especially if you go 5/8ths. Next time make sure you crown all of your studs in a wall the same direction. Modern lumber is garbage. Good practice. Like I said metal studs would work great since they are not structural and straight as an arrow. They make lvl studs too. Super straight. Very expensive. Metal is pretty easy to work with. Reduces moisture wicking in damp basements and easier to frame slab to ceiling when there is inconsistancies

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billtipp t1_jae9l59 wrote

I use plastic gears like this on several machines and all are secured with a "Roll pin" through gear and shaft. I would just try to be sure this is not what was used originally before drilling out to appropriate dimensions for a new one. Our hammer out old one with a punch.

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hoppyending OP t1_jae8vxp wrote

The drywall can be affixed to the existing studs, but you'll end up with a step or ledge somewhere part way down the wall where you have to frame around the foundation. I wanted to avoid that, so I framed new walls in front of the existing walls. The downsides are the loss of about 9–10" of space on every exterior wall and r/AbsoluteUnits window jambs.

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Megas3300 t1_jae851h wrote

Reply to comment by merc08 in Digging out basement? by MRMAGOOONTHE5

It can be done, basically lifting the house off the foundation, and rebuilding it(or just making the foundation taller).

On a smaller scale It’s been done to homes around me to get 1-2 more cinderblock layers in the basement to make it more habitable. I know of at least one case where somebody did this by themselves with a whole bunch of harbor freight bottle jacks.

I’ve also seen where an entirely new basement/foundation was installed adjacent to the home, the house moved on to the new foundation, and the old foundation then demolished.

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TechJunky1 t1_jae802g wrote

Do not put insulation there.

With the poly already on the wall you would create a warm spot there and could be trapping any moisture that needs to evaporate.

The walls are a little far off the walls but you will be fine with leaving the drywall on. The air space will actually help a bit as well.

Modern insulation on buildings are leaning to exterior insulation and air gaps inside to create another barrier.

I would leave it as is and board

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ProblimaticSolutions OP t1_jae6o2u wrote

Dim, various levels, vary rapidly for about a second. Also at varying intensity, one time might be barely noticeable and the next you'd think the power was about to shut off.

I've not noticed anything other than the one light.

Panel pics - Oven is bottom right breaker, light is on the one directly above it (again, nothing else on this circuit seems affected).

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Sluisifer t1_jae6169 wrote

What's the goal with this repair? If you're just prolonging the life of this piece of equipment, epoxy no doubt. Good chance of working and it's easy.

If you need it to keep running for ages and ages, you want something that can be maintained going forward. That's where epoxy is a bit of an issue.

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FairDoughnut3689 t1_jae5u7x wrote

I've use pump sprayer, sprayed water on popcorn a couple of times, it will soften up. I made a pole scraper out of a wide plastic Spackle blade, cut a notch in a PVC pipe and screw clamped it together. Sticky clumps come off and yes many tarps but no dust with this step.

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Sluisifer t1_jae5jep wrote

Vapor barrier is an issue.

VB is placed on the interior side for cold climates because this will be the warm area. It will not provide a cool surface for vapor to condense. When you insulate over the VB, you cool it off. It is now insulated from the conditioned interior. Now the cooler VB can act as a condensing surface for warm and moist interior air.

This is not some killer issue, but it's not good practice and could certainly lead to some issues. In practice, it's very hard to say what will and won't lead to failures.

Just keep in mind that many people are incredibly confused about moisture issues and will very confidently say all kinds of bullshit. Even - really especially - professionals that understand some things well and other things poorly. In reality the problem is simple, but the solutions are complex. Empiricism rules the day.

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