Recent comments in /f/DIY
lollroller t1_jaeafzc wrote
Reply to comment by audulutch in Rate our 130+ year old home’s bathroom remodel? by csbarbourv
We have ceiling fans in several bathrooms, they keep the air moving and help the showers dry faster. I don’t see why they would circulate air around the rest of the house
WealthyMarmot t1_jaeae0j wrote
Reply to comment by ProblimaticSolutions in Need help tracking down source of light flicker. by ProblimaticSolutions
Odd. You probably need a pro to take a look. Could be simply main voltage sagging from the high draw and those LEDs are especially sensitive.
Is the oven neutral touching the lighting circuit's ground (they look close, can't tell if they're actually in contact)? If so, my wild theory is that it might be transferring enough current to cause thermal expansion under the lug where the lighting neutral and ground are double-tapped (very common but not a good idea BTW). That could theoretically loosen the lighting neutral's connection after a time and dim the lights. Normally the oven neutral wouldn't transfer enough current to matter, but aluminum combined with a loose connection could make the copper path more attractive.
But whoever gets in there will probably find a more boring explanation. Good luck.
InterestingTruth7232 t1_jaeaay8 wrote
Reply to comment by Warsaw14 in Basement wall framing, slight gaps due to crowning of studs. Please advise on next steps if any are needed. by Warsaw14
Yea the Sheetrock will do a bit smoothing out inconsistencies. Especially if you go 5/8ths. Next time make sure you crown all of your studs in a wall the same direction. Modern lumber is garbage. Good practice. Like I said metal studs would work great since they are not structural and straight as an arrow. They make lvl studs too. Super straight. Very expensive. Metal is pretty easy to work with. Reduces moisture wicking in damp basements and easier to frame slab to ceiling when there is inconsistancies
billtipp t1_jae9l59 wrote
Reply to How to prevent gear moving on bar? by stehilton94
I use plastic gears like this on several machines and all are secured with a "Roll pin" through gear and shaft. I would just try to be sure this is not what was used originally before drilling out to appropriate dimensions for a new one. Our hammer out old one with a punch.
loganab13 t1_jae9ks6 wrote
Reply to Popcorn removal on concrete ceiling by egyptianking304
Drywall mud can be used to skim coat concrete, it’s done fairly regularly in commercial construction.
Also, I don’t know how old your condo is, but it never hurts to test for asbestos.
craigeryjohn t1_jae92gy wrote
Reply to comment by inna_hey in Adding outside GFCI by Unlikely_Play
Of course. Just letting everyone know that they aren't strictly needed in order to still protect yourself with a gfci.
JimMorrisonsBathtub OP t1_jae8zdk wrote
Reply to comment by Duckbilling in What material will grip on top of carpet? by JimMorrisonsBathtub
Does it stay grippy long term?
inna_hey t1_jae8x86 wrote
Reply to comment by WealthyMarmot in Adding outside GFCI by Unlikely_Play
That receptacle's always been there
hoppyending OP t1_jae8vxp wrote
Reply to comment by Routine_Left in Add additional insulation to walkout basement wall cavity. Good idea? Bad idea? by hoppyending
The drywall can be affixed to the existing studs, but you'll end up with a step or ledge somewhere part way down the wall where you have to frame around the foundation. I wanted to avoid that, so I framed new walls in front of the existing walls. The downsides are the loss of about 9–10" of space on every exterior wall and r/AbsoluteUnits window jambs.
inna_hey t1_jae8tv2 wrote
Reply to comment by craigeryjohn in Adding outside GFCI by Unlikely_Play
Sure but it's still code & best practice to ground things
Duckbilling t1_jae8of2 wrote
Flex seal
party_benson t1_jae8fzt wrote
Reply to comment by [deleted] in Options for propping up countertop by JethroByte
This isn't for load support. Those brackets are to make sure you don't slide the dishwasher when opening and closing the door or sliding the baskets with heavy pots.
Sluisifer t1_jae8df7 wrote
Reply to countertop paint by Andyap1035
Oil will yellow. Waterborne poly will be alright.
Routine_Left t1_jae88kv wrote
Reply to Add additional insulation to walkout basement wall cavity. Good idea? Bad idea? by hoppyending
My house's basement looks just like yours, and I also live in Ontario (south). Do you have to add a new set of studs in front of the existing ones? Can't the drywall be just placed on the existing studs?
just asking for when I'll go about finishing that basement (prolly never).
[deleted] t1_jae85rw wrote
Reply to comment by TechJunky1 in Add additional insulation to walkout basement wall cavity. Good idea? Bad idea? by hoppyending
[removed]
Megas3300 t1_jae851h wrote
Reply to comment by merc08 in Digging out basement? by MRMAGOOONTHE5
It can be done, basically lifting the house off the foundation, and rebuilding it(or just making the foundation taller).
On a smaller scale It’s been done to homes around me to get 1-2 more cinderblock layers in the basement to make it more habitable. I know of at least one case where somebody did this by themselves with a whole bunch of harbor freight bottle jacks.
I’ve also seen where an entirely new basement/foundation was installed adjacent to the home, the house moved on to the new foundation, and the old foundation then demolished.
TechJunky1 t1_jae802g wrote
Reply to Add additional insulation to walkout basement wall cavity. Good idea? Bad idea? by hoppyending
Do not put insulation there.
With the poly already on the wall you would create a warm spot there and could be trapping any moisture that needs to evaporate.
The walls are a little far off the walls but you will be fine with leaving the drywall on. The air space will actually help a bit as well.
Modern insulation on buildings are leaning to exterior insulation and air gaps inside to create another barrier.
I would leave it as is and board
fuck_all_you_people t1_jae7tem wrote
Reply to How to prevent gear moving on bar? by stehilton94
Grind two flat spots opposite of each other (leave a lip at the end of the rod) and put an E clip on it.
ProblimaticSolutions OP t1_jae6o2u wrote
Reply to comment by WealthyMarmot in Need help tracking down source of light flicker. by ProblimaticSolutions
Dim, various levels, vary rapidly for about a second. Also at varying intensity, one time might be barely noticeable and the next you'd think the power was about to shut off.
I've not noticed anything other than the one light.
Panel pics - Oven is bottom right breaker, light is on the one directly above it (again, nothing else on this circuit seems affected).
craigeryjohn t1_jae6kbr wrote
Reply to comment by inna_hey in Adding outside GFCI by Unlikely_Play
OP said the ground is secured. Also FYI you don't actually need a ground wire for a gfci to function.
Sluisifer t1_jae6169 wrote
Reply to How to prevent gear moving on bar? by stehilton94
What's the goal with this repair? If you're just prolonging the life of this piece of equipment, epoxy no doubt. Good chance of working and it's easy.
If you need it to keep running for ages and ages, you want something that can be maintained going forward. That's where epoxy is a bit of an issue.
FairDoughnut3689 t1_jae5u7x wrote
Reply to Popcorn removal on concrete ceiling by egyptianking304
I've use pump sprayer, sprayed water on popcorn a couple of times, it will soften up. I made a pole scraper out of a wide plastic Spackle blade, cut a notch in a PVC pipe and screw clamped it together. Sticky clumps come off and yes many tarps but no dust with this step.
Sluisifer t1_jae5jep wrote
Reply to Add additional insulation to walkout basement wall cavity. Good idea? Bad idea? by hoppyending
Vapor barrier is an issue.
VB is placed on the interior side for cold climates because this will be the warm area. It will not provide a cool surface for vapor to condense. When you insulate over the VB, you cool it off. It is now insulated from the conditioned interior. Now the cooler VB can act as a condensing surface for warm and moist interior air.
This is not some killer issue, but it's not good practice and could certainly lead to some issues. In practice, it's very hard to say what will and won't lead to failures.
Just keep in mind that many people are incredibly confused about moisture issues and will very confidently say all kinds of bullshit. Even - really especially - professionals that understand some things well and other things poorly. In reality the problem is simple, but the solutions are complex. Empiricism rules the day.
ty556 OP t1_jae5h9p wrote
Reply to comment by elainegeorge in Closed in vaulted ceiling by ty556
Bingo!
Remount_Kings_Troop_ t1_jaeagb9 wrote
Reply to Add additional insulation to walkout basement wall cavity. Good idea? Bad idea? by hoppyending
It's not required in every jurisdiction, but fire blocking is a good idea regardless:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWvBEwRitbE