I would slowly, and I mean slowly, drill a hole through both, and put my own pin.

Wouldn’t this be more work than shimming the two studs that are Too low to match the higher studs? Seems like I would be cutting like 6 studs in your scenario in order to match the lower studs. Hope that made sense

So, that spot at the top of the door frame where there are 4 screw holes is where the standard pneumatic door closer would have gone, you can even see the mounting bracket in the link provided and how it matches. If there was one installed on this door, there would be some screw holes in the top of the door. If not, then this door was replaced with this different style of closer that I have also never seen before.

I'm not exactly sure if the sliding bar that's on there now is supposed to provide some spring force, it looks like it's just for guidance and there is supposed to be a pneumatic cylinder mounted there as well, but I could be wrong.

Adding additional insulation to the gap between the framing and the exterior wall can be a good idea, as it can help improve the energy efficiency of your basement and reduce heat loss. However, it's important to make sure that the additional insulation is installed correctly to avoid any potential downsides.

One potential downside of adding insulation to this gap is the risk of moisture buildup, which can lead to mold growth and other moisture-related problems. Moisture can accumulate in the cavity between the framing and the exterior wall, especially if there are any air leaks or if the insulation is not properly installed or ventilated. To avoid this, it's important to make sure that the insulation is properly sealed and that there is adequate ventilation in the cavity to allow any moisture to escape.

Another potential issue is that adding insulation to the gap may reduce the amount of space available for wiring or plumbing, which can make future renovations or repairs more difficult. If this is a concern, you may want to consider using thinner insulation or alternative insulation materials that take up less space.

Overall, adding insulation to the gap between the framing and the exterior wall can be a good idea, as long as it's done correctly and with proper attention to moisture management and ventilation. Consult with a professional contractor or insulation specialist to ensure that the insulation is installed correctly and to help you choose the best insulation material for your needs.

They sell brackets for this.. sometimes they just behind where the washer opens with rubber mounts.. can get small ones or ones that are just about the width of the dishwasher… or can go cheap and use some rubber shims tucked out of sight lol

Wait until the cracks are biggest, open them up just a hair more and back fill with DAP Calking. (One of the few uses of DAP calking).

I've heard about cutting those screws to "float" the drywall. That's something we've considered doing for the worst locations.

There was a similar post a couple days ago where the poster had issues with his topcoat never properly hardening. IIR the consensus was he didn’t let the countertop dry properly before he put the topcoat on.

Gear is plastic, so I'm not confident a grub screw will have sufficient strength...

You can either drill the bar through to remove whatever pin got stuck and put a new pin. Or drill the end of the bar and tap the hole to put a screw in from the end to trap the gear.

Not clear I'd the bar is removable, so drilling from the end may be more achievable...

Or... slather some epoxy on it and cross your fingers

Right on. That's what my brother recommended too. Thanks for the reply.

They aren’t bearing correct.

I had an identical situation when I remodeled my kitchen. Even with the old dishwasher under it, the counter still flexed a little in that spot. Since I was installing quartz counters to replace the laminate counters, I didn't want it to be unsupported because quartz was likely to crack instead of flex.

My solution was a large L-bracket that extended from the wall near the dishwasher/oven seam. I ordered a 22" Universal countertop support bracket from CenterLine Brackets (link below). Quality was top-notch, but it did require me to cut open the wall and install 2x8 blocking between studs to give it something sturdy to mount to. I also had to precisely mount it to be level with the rest of the cabinet framing so the countertop would be level. It gave me just enough clearance on the back of my new dishwasher to put the dishwasher in without hitting the bracket.

https://www.countertopbracket.com/Countertop-Supports-Floating-Inside-Wall-Mount-p/fwm.htm

Here's a photo of it installed https://imgur.com/a/jao7Cmm

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I didn't build the exterior wall. It kind of came with the house. I think it was 1-inch foam. It's pretty standard here. Every house in the subdivision was built the same way.

Ahh I see. No just the one side. Concrete is behind these walls.

Thanks! Am I correct that I likely used studs that had too much crown here? I wanna pinpoint whatever error I made to improve in the future. I’m pretty sure the studs that are “low” are the issue. Everything is plumb, I did check with a six foot level and a plumb bob. Wouldn’t just shimming out the few studs in this case be the easiest route overall?

Sounds fine probably but you didn't mention a ground wire. Buy an outlet tester and ensure that ground is connected after installation.

>Here's the current situation.

👀

Sheet rock I just call it rocking.

Do not allow any water to get under your house. Gutters and point them away from the house. If you’re on a slope, divert flow around the house.

Keep everything inside at a stable humidity using an air conditioner during the summer and possibly a humidifier in the dry winter.

I'de go with option #2 or #3.

I'de go with option #2 or #3.

Joke?

What do you mean “rocking”?

I have truss lift at my home as well. From what I've researched, nailing or screwing the trusses to the walls runs the risk of the entire wall being pulled up from the bottom plate or breaking/splitting the wood.

A couple of years ago, I had enough of it, went into the attic and located the nails were the drywall was fastened to the trusses in relation to the corners of rooms that had broken drywall seams. I used an oscillating tool to cut only those perimeter nails where the lift was happening. My ceiling drywall was installed before the walls so there no worry of it falling or sagging.

I'm a DIY'er for sure, so don't take this as gospel for your home, but thus far I've had no issues since.

How thick is the exterior rigid insulation and what type? I ask because it appears you created a vapor trap in the above grade portions. You want the wall assembly to be able to dry out in one direction.