A circlip or possibly a grub screw through what looks like that hole in the white gear

It's not a load-bearing wall. It's just to hold drywall. The outer wall (the one with insulation between the studs) is load bearing.

No, adjust the existing one.

The door may have been forced open further than usual, taking it out of adjustment. They normally have 2 adjustments. One is closing speed, and the other is the latch. Sometimes both are adjusted by the same screw, (hydraulic) where a quarter turn adjusts the latch and a full turn adjusts the speed.

counter sink the holes a bit also - the screw will have pulled the edge of the hole out a bit and this will cause the repair to sit proud of the surface- Same trick works for drywall holes-

Are you rocking both sides of the wall? If that’s the case and it really bothers you you can shim out. If perfectly straight basement walls are really that’s important you should frame with steel studs. That would solve the issue

I think you can, and I would do it the way you describe it.

Windows in load bearing walls should have a proper header

The "tube" they are referencing is inside the top of the door, where it connects to the door itself. It likely has small adjustment screws you can reach from the top. It might even show a name of the closer model.

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Unacceptable, tear it down, start over from scratch.

It looks like you have plenty of room to get a crescent wrench on that nut. Quarter turn at a time until it is loose enough for your hand

Should be able to shim it. I had worse gaps when I redid the drywall on my older home.

My shed has old doors for the floor. I love this analogy.

I like how every comment is a different suggestion. Good luck OP.

Thank you for the reply! My understanding is this should/could have been addressed at the construction phase, like you say. My builder is out of the question for any resolution, as they are getting hit with some lawsuits by us and neighbours (surprise, surprise...).

Do you think it would be possible to help address this by getting up into the attic and screwing the trusses down to the top of the wall? I'm unsure, as it all wants to move and will want to continue to do so... it might not appreciate being restrained and that could manifest something worse

The 1/4" gap above our tiled shower wall is a real eyesore that even crown moulding won't fix (shower area = wet)

Anything that fits, crescent maybe?

It look like dried up water. Like when you have a water stain left on something. Ive seen this before after doing a water repair and leak stopped. I would rip it all down from ceiling to wall and re-sheetrock it. That is after all leaks have been repaired.

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Seems to me that you could shift the red striped flexi hose out of the way and get a small adjustable spanner on that.

I absolutely hate doing taps like these so I feel your pain.

Looks like that spring can use a reset.

That extra hole that looks like it is missing a set screw is probably there to hold or release the coiled spring; however i dont know for sure because i havent owned one of these before.

I think it may work like this if you wanna give it a try: loosen set screw, unscrew the bar from the door-side, open the door fully. Put the bar (sans door) in the "fully closed" position and tighten the set screw. Pull the bar and door together; reattach.

Pulling the bar out from the closed position at the end should have resistance to it, so be careful.

What is the pad? Is that the thing with a circle that has nothing in it?

https://i.imgur.com/8UPUmfD.jpg

think it isI called Carter switching as well. Lots of old school ways to do 3-ways.

In some parts of Europe all switches work on the neutrals.