It's a larson

From the Larson web site:

Why isn’t my door closing all the way? There are pads in the top mounting rail. In order for the closer to operate correctly, they need to be separated. To do that, just push the door open to 90 degrees and tighten the set screw in the pad closest to the hinges. Then just push the door closed to disconnect the pads. Make sure you have removed the hold open pin.

Maybe a spring in the track? I've not seen that style before.

This is a castle and we have many tapestries, and if you are a Scottish lord then I am Mickey Mouse!

looks like something is missing?

I'm still nursing a black fingernail from the last project, that smarted and re-established my respect for the club hammer.

Here’s the top top hinge

Looks like a screw or something is missing

I honestly don't know as I've never seen one like this before.

Can you find a label on your screen door that has the brand and model? You might be able to find an installation manual online.

Looks great! I never would have thought of mixing those tiles together on the shower walls but somehow it works. How much of a pain was it to do the herringbone? I love the look but as a somewhat amateur tiler, not sure if it would be too much to tackle.

If I were to do something like that I would set it down somewhere and then forget about it. I have no idea what they did.

So I need a pin? Or how does that work?

I see a connecting bar at the top of the door very briefly in your video, that looks similar to what is discussed here.

I'm not familiar with these types of auto-close devices, but there is probably a pin that disconnects the auto-closing mechanism. The movers probably removed the pin to allow the door to stay open. Look to see how the bar attaches to the door and to the door frame.

Thanks so much! That’s very helpful

Depends on the climate you have there.

In my industry (fencing) we typically prime and paint over the cold galv spray.

If you're using the cold galv paint that stuff is so thick it could be the finish coat or you could acid etch it and prime and paint over that.

Lol and then they just took it?!

2.6gal isn't gonna have enough air capacity to use a powder blaster, IMO

I don't see one in that video, which leads me to believe they took it off to make it easier to go in and out

Curious as to the decision of lowering the ceiling vs closing up the top of the wall that leads to the hallway/upstairs?

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It may have just been loosened. There is a screw at the end of it somewhere around the middle of the door. Tightening and loosening changes the resistance of the piston. You can make your screen door close faster or slower. They're not easy to break and may also have just worn out.

You might be getting some inductive current from the oven circuit caused by the wires being too close together (or maybe even wrapped around each other for some unknown reason). If that's the case there's really not much you can do if you're not willing to open up the walls and separate the wiring.

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Assuming this is an older house, it likely had old cloth Romex which would've needed a conduit to conduct ground if plumbing was not near. The red/gray/black combo looks like it was updated at some point.

I was describing the existing exterior wall insulation and vapour barrier, installed by the original builder, and inspected by the town. I know that part is built correctly.

I think the general consensus in the comments is that I'd see minimal gains while complicating compliance with the Ontario building code, so I'm just going to leave it as is.

If needed. If it is the pneumatic door closer, a new one should mount in the same holes. I could be completely wrong about what's actually broken though.