Sounds like you've got a Chicago 3-way setup. Especially since it's an older house, literally in Chicago. It can be used for non-3-way stuff, but this was most common for a jumped/shared neutral.

https://youtu.be/qjOth4dnMxo

The issue with your switch is that it relies on a dedicated ground and neutral circuit (which you don't have). Had this problem in my 1950s house until that circuit was rewired to modern standards.

Simple solution: skip the illuminated switch.

The ratios are in the table at the bottom of this article from Building Science Corp. https://buildingscience.com/documents/building-science-insights-newsletters/bsi-100-hybrid-assemblies

I am absolutely not a professional but I had that type of door growing up and it never "stopped working".

I don't know but my experience says they might have broken it

Ok cool

So they likely broke it?

Lowes or Home Depot if you're in the US

So just install a new one?

Where would I get one?

I'm a big fan of subway, so I'm biased. But you did ask for a rating tbf

Could have gotten broken. Easy to replace though.

The thing that connects the door to the door frame. It has a tube and there's a metal piece that slides down it as it closes

I am a licensed professional engineer (structural) in Toronto and I did my own design for both permitting and construction methodology. So it was free (figuratively speaking).

If I was to be asked to do a design for underpinning a basement my fee would be 10k to 15k which would include hiring a geotechnical engineer to do a borehole and give me a report on the soil I'm dealing with. Drawings would be signed and sealed, suitable for permitting and construction with all specs on the drawings.

As to the cost per square foot, I have no idea. I took a month off work and hired a foreman and two / three pairs of hands and paid them all by the hour. I also laboured / directed with the crew.

Work included new main sewer, new basement drains, some waterproofing, subdrains, excavation, new columns and footings, new concrete floor on 2 inches of SM, vapour barrier, crushed stone subfloor, new water service, plumbing work, and all new electrical panel and associated rewire.

100k to 125k (I didn't keep track of just the underpinning, it was part of a much larger renovation. I kept a spreadsheet of the entire project, which I'm still working on. So my price is an estimate.). Price does not include finishing the basement.

It's a lot of hand digging, staging, pumping of self compacting concrete, etc.

Glueing sheetrock to the foam board I think is against IRC, which requires backing, either 2x framing members or furring strips (or other structural members like metal).

What tube thing?

It worked before though?

[deleted]

Replace the tube thing

You can't just touch up the single spot with paint even after using a filler.

A hole the size of a pencil eraser will have a patch at least 6 inches across.

After filling and drying, sand the whole area using progressively finer papers until it is very smooth. Paint all of the sanded area and blend it by using BobRoss's technique of tiny x's.

We discussed it. Ultimately we wanted to be able to have the shower spraying on us without our head getting soaked. I want to shower, not be waterboarded.

Our compromise was mounting the shower head about 6 1/2 feet off the floor.

Ask your local building inspector. What they will pass or fail is always the first consideration. I'm in particular concerned about vapor barriers as what you described sounds wrong, but I'm probably just concerned. You do not want the problems of wrong vapor barriers down the road.

If the inspector will allow it I'd put insulation in these walls, but no more vapor barrier. It may not meet the letter of local code, but it should meet the intent so I think your inspector will allow it - but your inspector should know more than me, so if he describes reasons not to listen.

Besides white subway tile, what tile hasn't been dated in 5-10 years?

Regardless I'm the labor, not the designer! ;)

Not exactly. You're right, it doesn't have a standing pilot. You're also wrong, it doesn't have an HSI. What it does have is an on-demand spark ignition pilot (see page 32).

Galvanizing tends to be more durable, painting has more range of colours/options.

9.10.6.2. exempts blocking only within the wall assembly itself (where it is batted). But the wall to floor still must be blocked with an acceptable fire block material https://www.buildingcode.online/1508.html

Steel telepost under the floor to crank it back to place.

Steel plate across the Crack.