https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394467949152?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=jmlf3a-qstq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=gzuTA6oyTqi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This is UK, but find something similar in the US and you'll be fine. Frankly it's worth having in your plumbing supplies box.

I guess fire is different in Canada. There should be a solid block of plywood or 5/8 drywall at the top of the cavity that he has created to create a block between that and the joist bays. The reason is that any fire that starts in that wall space will rapidly spread into the basement ceiling. Fiberglass batts are not fire blocking. Mineral wool batts are acceptable.

Hire a professional or protect yourself.

You can back pour cement walls using a “shutter box” and have a full basement. It will take some engineering and I would hire a contractor that specializes in doing such.

Fuck your landlord, open up a small section of the drywall and find some floor joists

1. Borders are solid wood
2. It hasn't be machined at all, so no mortises and no holes for the knob/latch
3. I don't have a round over bit with that small of a radius, but i figured I could just plane a small radius easily enough.

I'm hearing some "don't even bother" so it may just come down to whether or not I'm feeeling gutsy enough....

Good point about vibration. I replied to u/Alexstarfire that it's from Habitat for Humanity ReStore (basically Good Will or Salvation Army for home renos) an they don't have the correct size since it's mostly base on donation from big-box stores.

Oh for sure. I think it's on it's way back later today.

Would love to, but it's from Habitat for Humanity ReStore (basically Good Will or Salvation Army for home renos) an they don't have the correct size. I'm thinking that's the way to go anyway, an just get a refund.

My semen

I had it tested and it was asbestos. Surprisingly the 9x9 tiles under the carpet were asbestos free.

Good advice. Did the same thing with sagging joists in my 1850 house. Still rock solid after forty years.

You bought that?

I can share the gnarly ones too. But here’s post op after the first surgery.

https://imgur.com/a/laiQtI1

I have a metal plate. 2nd survey was about 6 months later to do a bone graph because of non-union. I’ll have 3rd surgery soon to remove the plate and clean up some scar tissue hoping for increased movement.

I can pinch but not make a fist. Nerves are ok, lost some feeling where the saw went in but still have feeling everywhere else to everyone’s surprise.

The vapour barrier goes in the trash.

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You don't want to use a vapour barrier at all if you will hang drywall. The moisture will move through the drywall but not the plastic and now you have mold conditions.

Keep the vapour in or out or allow it to pass all the way through.

​

>Incorrect use of vapor barriers is leading to an increase in moisture related problems. Vapor barriers were originally intended to prevent assemblies from getting wet. However, they often prevent assemblies from drying. Vapor barriers installed on the interior of assemblies prevent assemblies from drying inward. This can be a problem in any air-conditioned enclosure. This can be a problem in any below grade space. This can be a problem when there is also a vapor barrier on the exterior. This can be a problem where brick is installed over building paper and vapor permeable sheathing.

https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers

If you _have_ to use it for code use certain tweed's which allows the interior to dry.

https://www.certainteed.com/insulation/vapor-barriers/

They move houses all the time. You can absolutely lift the house, put a full basement, and set it back. The question is, is it worth the cost?

I was googling forever to ding out if I could do it and there was so little info on it which is why I posted. The vaulted ceiling concept is so dated, I hate it. It creates an air conditioning/heating nightmare.

The floor to ceiling windows are a bummer though, that really does limit your options.

This. Go ahead and lay flooring. No issues putting cabinets over LVP.

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I’m guessing that it’s the hearth in front of the flue that’s the problem. The chimney itself would never sit on a wooden floor.

I love how OP slips in a comment about losing a finger, like no biggie, lost mah digit. It looks superb, by the way.

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Funny you menetion that! The permit office asked the same thing. So the house is a two story house and built on slab. The entire slab was poured for a two story house so there wasn’t much inf a concern. The engineer verified it all anyways and gave it a thumbs up.