9.10.16.2 is the relevant article, and they are filling the wall with insulation, so fireblocking is not required between the wall and floor inside a dwelling unit.

That's mind-blowing you could spot T1-11 siding like that - holy crap. Thanks for all the comments - I'll certainly do some more research and document the project so i can post it on this sub. I love that solar idea - despite the tree it actually does get quite a bit of natural sunlight, so it might be worth looking into. Thanks again for the great ideas!

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Just don’t pressure wash. Use a scrub brush and appropriate herbicide/fungicide. Pressure washers will tear right into old wood. A lot of decks have been ruined this way. It looks like they’re cleaning AMAZINGLY while you’re pressure washing, but that’s because it’s blasting layers away right down to bare wood.

If the dirt mounds are “just shy of reaching the floor joists,” then they are not “load bearing.”

People think pressure washers are literally magic and will quickly and easily strip away only what they consider to be dirt while having zero impact on the wood or other material underneath.

Canadian Shield yes. Manitoba no. Muskoka, ON.

I’ve been looking into it. I keep hoping the AirThings Wave Plus will go on sale, but no luck yet.

There used to be these old laminate flooring with badly designed connections, that you would have to let sit for a day before you could place furniture on it. Modern flooring with ''click'' plastic connections are stable. They do not need to move and they should not move. If even one piece moves and damages the connection (which never happened in my 5 years of expeprience), then the piece would pop out and you will have to replace the pieces with damaged connections.

There's two signs that a shed needs replacing, rather than fixing - the footings have rotted out, and/or the ridge board is rotted. Either one pretty much means you need to tear down large portions of the shed to fix. Easier to just replace.

Well done! I would love to do something like this at my place. A huge open area above the living room serves no purpose other than an echo chamber and zaps heat from the main floor. Unfortunately there are floor to ceiling windows on the opposite wall and no real good way to separate them between the two floors.

Yes, I agree. Get a seasoned deck builder, architect, structural engineer, or a local building inspector to evaluate your entire deck while everything is exposed.

Manitoba? Part of the canadian shield?

Impressive work and I must admit I am a bit curious as to how the engineer justified no footing enlargements. Hard to make a judgement from photos though. This looks ace and I am sure is a welcome improvement to your home.

You're assuming USA i personally would have assumed canada as op used C denoting celcius and also the 60°C temp difference is kinda normal for canadain cities

I worked on refurbing my backup compressor (oiled twin tank Hitachi) yesterday, due to making air slowly. One of the reed valves was corroded/worn through, the unloader line had a loose connection at the tank exit, and the shutoff diaphragm was leaking. Got that done, but it's not turning on very well - I think the unloader valve is stuck too :/

I'd swap that Makita for a fresh one if you're still within the return period.

This is what happens when you hire a decorator. Decorators help you pick furniture and paint colours. You need to find a contractor lol.

by decorating company...do you mean...yourself?

I will check that. Not sure if it matters (regarding the power co. side of things) but ground and neutral are on the same bar in the box, house was built in the early'40s.

Given how uneven the ceiling looks I would have torn down the old drywall and replaced.

Jesus, Mary, and Joseph! and I'm not religious.

that should be framed out, it's not even a hard job.

i cant even begin to list the ways this is allll wrong

I'd be concerned about moisture, that said you could restrict the convection potential in the airgap and that'd make it more insulated without the moisture risk.

Mount some horizontal plywood strips in there (kinda like shelves). That keeps more of the heat in the airgap at the same level, rather than it pooling at the top. Then it can radiate back into the room and keep the heat in the walls longer. Kinda like bubblewrap insulation.

Diagram:
Inner Wall I
Plywood strips E (because that's what it'd look like)
External wall L (you leave some vertical air gap still, just less)

IEL

This! There is so much wrong there I don’t know where to start.

I've done 3 and never replaced the seat either. I sold the house 4 years after replacing 2 so maybe they have issues now

Are you trying to re-use the faucet?

If you clench your jaw just right, squint, and know the cheat code pattern of swear words, and have a decent pair of channel locks, you can grip onto that nut somewhat vertically and give it a slight turn. With the deck nuts in place (the side plastic nuts) it won't take much to release and then you can unwind it by hand. I've done it that way maybe 50 times.

If you're not going to re-use the faucet, then just grab onto the whole thing and rock it back and forth and it will eventually snap off. You can bend the threaded bolt without a nut on it out of the way to give yourself more space. Disconnecting all the supply lines and pulling them tightly to one side would also help.

Or, really deep sockets. Measure the depth of socket you need before buying any. Your standard deep sockets will likely not be deep enough. Husky makes a fancy "pass through" socket set with a hole through the socket and the extension. You'd have to know if it was metric or SAE though and make sure the sockets go down to a small enough size to remove that nut. If you're re-using the faucet you'll want the right tool to put it back on too.

If you're replacing the faucet, Moen uses a neat little system where you thread on a large nut until it's finger tight. On the face of that large nut are three screws that you tight to do the final bit of securing the faucet to the sink. It's super easy to do and makes working in that tight space very easy. Those skinny bolts with the long nuts are a terrible design.

Good luck.