Good to know. I was concerned about it being on the wrong side of the vapour barrier.

Not an electrician, but I think it’s worth checking hot, neutral, and ground from your lighting circuit are all tight in your breaker box (only open if you know what you’re doing, turn off the main breaker, and beware the life wires coming into the breaker are still hot—touch those or anything they may be in contact with and you are toast).

Another thing that may be worth investigating or reading more about is whether your neutral may be loose somewhere between your house and the power company supply. It may not be super obvious bc stuff will still run but go though your ground wire instead of neutral. That can definitely be a cause for flickering.

The vapour barrier is behind the interior wall? If so there is some rule of thumb ratio that I can't really remember about adding insulation on the warm side of a vapour barrier. Guessing 1/3rd r value of the insulation on the cold side.(look it up) IMO you don't want anything touching the warm side of the plastic that would trap condensation and grow mold. An air gab between would be a good thing.

I like those odds

I would say go for it. Insulation is cheap and it's better to not have to go back and put it in later. As long as the insulation isn't going to trap moisture behind your wall and you should be fine.

I thought you only had to have that for walls higher than 8 ft.

Maybe.

There is nothing to attach it to in the middle

All codes today require a temperature balanced valve to avoid scalding. Don't waste time and money trying to fix what you have. Take this situation as an opportunity to install a new valve system with diverter. I would also suggest new backerboard and new tiles for your entire tub surround. If not the whole surround, then just the wall with new hardware.

Any competent drywall contractors could do this correctly. The people who did that to your house are not competent. Dont allow them back for even the cleanup, they'll probably cut a hole in your floors.

I have a crawlspace under my house instead of a basement. Is it theoretically possible to get it reengineered and dug out to a full height basement or is that just a recipe for collapsing the house?

I’ve never had a call back for buckling floors from installing floating floors under cabinetry. 🤷🏽

whoa! awesome!

Yea good call. Someone else suggested using a sponge with mildew remover, and I think that's the path I'll test first.

Good god that is bad

I think I misunderstood u/r7-arr’s comment. Yes I’m planning to put fire blocking between the interior wall and exterior wall at the top plate. I don’t think any other fire blocks are necessary in Ontario for interior walls.

Edit: My understanding is that fire code Sheetrock is acceptable, so the comment about my framing being incorrect didn’t make sense.

Edit #2: 1/2” Sheetrock is apparently acceptable according to 9.10.16.3. I don’t even have to buy the fire code stuff.

No worries, pal. You choose to be a douchebag, and I totally respect that.

Man, So long as that original ceiling isn't falling down, you don't even need to use 3/4 drywall, Laminate with 1/4". This is honestly a stupid easy job that is kinda hard to screw up. WTF was going on here?

The random lengths chunks of wood randomly screwed to the ceiling

> pressure wash the rot and algea off the bottom

Be careful with the pressure washer, you can tear up the wood using too much pressure. There are different tips, use one that puts out a lower pressure.

Painters pressure washed my GFs house before painting and the guy that did it had no idea what he was doing, dug gouges in the siding on one side of the house.

As far as I remember it was happening before I switched to LED bulbs.

Watch this 10min video so you have an overview of the work you need done.

Don’t let them back in your house.

>efflorescence

“efflorescence” for the win.

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