Are they pine needles? If they're the long ones, honestly the fastest way to clear them is by hand, they bunch together and hold in big clumps. Just wear thick work gloves so you aren't endlessly stabbed. Raking or sweeping will just pile them higher and tighter.

It’s honestly for aesthetic purposes, I have really tall ceilings and it’s a four poster so it looks rather silly and out of balance. From a practical standpoint it’s unnecessary, especially given I’m short and don’t need to be doing parkour into bed every night.

Whats on the back side of the valve? Is it a wall you can easily cut out and repair or is it a nightmare of cabinets on top of tile or an exterior wall?

If it's easy to cut out and repair, like a simple Sheetrock and paint job, then that might help determine what you want to do. Personally I loath dual knob showers so I would try to install a new faucet if I could but I'm not sure I would go so far to rip out tile to do it. I would however open up a hallway or bedroom wall in a heartbeat.

They make shower cover plates that would convert your existing 3 hole setup into a single hole setup so that's an easy fix if you do go with a single knob mixer.

Also, if you do rip out the back wall, if practical, you could consider putting a small door in the wall for the next guy who might want to replace it. Sometimes that next guy is you.

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Oh wow! Did they try to install boards over sheetrock? Do they not know how to find joists in the ceiling?

It was a estimate from eyeballing it across the room, I highly doubt I actually want it that high it was just a extreme for a reference

That's super cool. The fake cabinets are a really fun, inventive touch that makes it look much better.

Smart move, always hire pros for asbestos. If you fuck it up, you might not know until it's too late.

Depending on what is behind that paint, it might be gypsum that has dissolved out of the wall and through the paint. If that is the case, I would not try to hang any pictures on that wall any more.

Looks like gypsum. Drywall dust. That's your wall falling from your wall. From those big ass holes, I imagine.

Edit: how you fix it, is less important than how you did it. You might just cut the corner to the door and start over lol.

Yep. Nothing in that picture inspires confidence that they can do it remotely correctly.

Well, if you can get into the wall from the far side you can replace and replumb the faucet valve without demoing the tile wall and make sure that the valve is properly secured. Also, depending on if you have an accessible crawlspace and how ambitious you are you could address any water pressure issues or realize any dreams you have for an elaborate multi head shower setup by running additional lines or larger lines.

Also with the faucet and tub spout pulled you can use a grout knife to cut out all that shitty grout and sealant and regrout the wall. I'd strongly recommend using a knife and not an oscillating multi-tool with a diamond grit head unless your hands are way steadier than mine, heh. But a multi-tool would be great for cutting in from the back side. I'd also strongly recommend renting or buying a PEX-A expansion tool and using PEX-A for any plumbing as it's just an amazing system and running PEX-A into the crawlspace to sharkbite connectors to the copper lines unless you want to sweat PEX-A adapters to the copper. This allows access to the sharkbites in the future.

I know this is a lot all at once but the work is not terribly complicated, personally I think the hardest bit would be blending the drywall patch over the far side which may be harder or easier depending on how the wall is.

Some years ago a guy in my neighborhood decided to dig out his basement without consulting anyone at all. House started to fall in due to foundation failure, it was a shut show. Get an engineer.

You can get 'wood filler sticks' online. You get a set of several colors for $10 or so. You can use one, then another and try to blend them. There's a lot of these kinds of products, so someone more expert may have some more specific advise.

You need to change plans/direction and just get or build a stand.

You absolutely cannot dig out that dirt on your own without some proper support. If you just try doing this on your own you might have the structure collapse on you.

A structural engineer can tell you if it can be done and specific methods for supporting the home during the dig out.

Thanks so much for writing that out - very very helpful! I spent the past 20 min looking into mildew removers.. haha.

And thanks for that shed skirt website - that's very helpful as well. Gave me a few good ideas of what I can put there.

Why I never thought of adding a shutoff when I remodeled my bathroom is beyond me...

Typically, paints have an application temperature between 15 C and 30 C as the ideal range, sometimes going as low as 10 C on the low end.

There are specialty products that can go as low as 5C or 2C, but you will need to check your product specifically (google it along with the word " TDS ") to see what its application temperature is.

What? I’ve never heard this and can’t tell if you’re joking.

I wouldn't. If you take away too much dirt you could condemn the place.

Just leave it alone.

Financially speaking, most low-end DIY is not worth it, because the cost of mass-produced good is SO low, that you can't really beat it once you factor in the consumables (paint, sandpaper, primer, etc.) and especially your time. This often keeps people trapped in an endless cycle of buying cheap products that don't last (the "Boots theory of socioeconomic unfairness".) The reason to DIY low-end objects is more for the satisfaction, sense of accomplishment, and learning opportunity they represent, rather than for financial gain.

However, the cost to DIY something is often much less than a high-quality good, so it would seem to make sense to DIY it -- but only if the base material is decent.

If I had the choice between spending $75 on paint and materials for a particle-board desk, or $150 for a solid-wood desk on the marketplace, I'd go with the solid wood one every time, because then, if it does need repairs in the future, I know its actually repairable, and that those repairs will last another 20 years, rather than 2.

What is your budget? There may be better options available for you.

i know a few sinks I have bought come with a reasonably long plastic socket. A crow foot wrench could do it. If you are not reusing the faucet, could maybe just break the bolt. Thinking thin nose vice grips should get you started enough to finish by hand

If they don’t spark joist then they need to go.

That's not mold at all. Worrying people online isnt cool