While you can generally drill holes in a structural beam you have to be sure of their size and placement in the beam. I'd be worried about that plaster on the roof containing asbestos. Also I don't imagine any nice way to disturb it without it looking bad.

Yeah I’m leaning towards replacing all three handles and valves because I agree

Slap some good joist tape on and you’re good to go

I used red guards decoupling mat under my shower and bathroom tile. It also say "recommended" minimum of 2" but I've had zero issues in 6 years with 1x1 mosaic tile in the shower. Personally I'd take the risk on the smaller tile which "might" be a problem later with cracking grout over not using a decoupler that "will" be a problem over that concrete joint.

The only other option really is to put an expansion joint in the tile. But that is going to be right in front of the toilet where you will feel it all the time with your feet. I'd throw down a membrane and worry about possible tiles moving down the road. Unless you are wearing high heels in that bathroom a lot with a point load on a single tile it's not ever going to be a problem. You'll lose any "warranty" by using small tile but honestly you are putting tile over a concrete slab... Water getting thru isn't really a problem.

Will you be eating the tasty paint chips? If not, don't worry about it.

Most likely it was a single family split into a duplex. In any event you have a bunch of demo first, plans second.

Oh you’re fine! I bought the house two years ago (my first one). Built in the 50s and the previous homeowner of 30+ years did lots of DIY stuff. I do have access to the back, on the other side is the kitchen and specifically the gas stove. What more would need to be done from that end versus replacing the cartridges/valves from the front?

I have the same model; great jobsite compressor. I empty the tank after each use and it only requires 2-3 minutes to go from 0 to 90 PSI. Air being discharged through the oil lube port is not normal.

But it’s a hard plastic? At least, it seems that way. It definitely does not feel like metal. But it’s very old, and may just be giving that appearance

you might be able to attach some rubber shelf liner on the bottom of your board that would be enough surface area to keep it from sliding.

this deck looks exactly like mine I am struggling with a loose deck from past 3 months how did you remove the deck ?

Fair enough, I just know we were allowed up to 3 feet for appliance hook up.

As long as the flex can provide the amount of gas the generator needs, seems like you're good to go.

I literally bought two replacement stems yesterday from HD and the seats were included in the package.

Here is the best pic I have of the insulation backing from when I opened the lower walls.

https://i.imgur.com/YpHI7vX.jpg

got it

>15 feet of flex is a lot of flex and, I think, against code.

Oh so I just looked it up, it's CSST flexible hose. My state allows 75 feet for a single run.

I'm gonna go on my hunch and say that might be the tar backed vapor barrier on the fiberglass insulation that you're seeing there. Too uniform otherwise ...

The gas being on but there being no flame. I've assumed the stove is in the basement just off what OP wrote, but it doesn't matter. Wherever the stove is would probably be leaking gas, unless it has an automatic shut off.

More risk than it's worth - better having a plumber calculate the safe pipe size/whether a new pipe run is required.

Might work. I’ll buy a roll and see what happens. Thanks

>So can I through shade on your generation for overthinking everything and getting muddled in poorly informed details. >Cuz you do and we think all y’all r fucking it up in ur own generational way 💋-Gen X.

But why though? I've got plenty of esoteric knowledge in my head and am always giving advice on repairs and technical things, to people older and younger, without feeling the need to be a prick about it. I've got the knowledge because it's my area of interest and experience, they don't because they aren't predisposed toward these interests. Doesn't make me better or them worse, we're different people from different walks of life with different things to offer.

...why would their basement fill with gas because the stove went out?

I didn’t explain my intentions well. I’ll update the description again.

I’d like to take my personal “Divot board” to driving range. My driving range only has mats you can hit off of. If I take apart my divot board to make it thinner, it will fly off the mats when I take a swing. In order to prevent that, I need a thin material that I can stick on the back of my modified divot board so that it won’t move too much on the carpet mat. When I’m done at the range, my divot board will go home with me. Cement is not an option.

Thank you.

lol those deck boards may have lasted bit longer with some care and some separation for water drain.

15 feet of flex is a lot of flex and, I think, against code.

What you should do is measure about 15 times, then 10 or so more times to verify, then go up to the orange box, they'll cut and thread for you. Rent a pair of 18" pipe wrenches while you're there.

Or hire it out, I know it sucks, but they'll do a better job than you and you won't run into problems with legality or blown up houses later.