The pressure drop when both appliances are running can be dangerous. For a worst case example, your stovetop might be starved enough for the flame to go out, flooding your basement with gas.

You might be fine with not running both at once but the next owner of your house might go ahead and do just that, and blow up the house.

The pressure at your meter, the pipe size, distance and any bends are all factors which can come into play there.

Fortunately I'm not much of a chef so I can pretty easily live without burners if I need to run the generator.

100% correct. I’ve removed hundreds of old boards covered in lead paint, without wearing any protective gear, unless the paint is breaking up and peeling. If you’re talking about sanding old paint, then PPE is a must. Just pryng off an old board and tossing it in your truck bed, shouldn’t be an issue.

OP to help with any confusion that entire thing you are going to replace is called a "diverter" and you'll need the copper pipe for the tub faucet. Better to convert the rest of it to PEX and install shutoff valves while you're in there, and close the cut out wall on the other side you'll need to open to get to it with an access panel.

I work in hospitality av, we use gaffer tape to temporarily stick things to the hotel carpet.

It’s a bit more expensive than regular adhesives like duct tape but it’s strong and leaves little to no residue even after extended periods of time

I'm confused with your process.

Is there a reason you can't use a contact cement for the mat/surface? That would typically be my go to for something like this. Give each side enough time to tack up and then carefully attach. As soon as they touch they are bonded.

I'd prefer to just get all the old shit out of here and fix it up as good as we can. Thanks for commenting. Just trying to give the tenants as nice of a property as we can.

Here are the pictures individually:

https://i.imgur.com/LBMVHmF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TgJl5h9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wMjg98f.jpg

Please don't post links to your personal Google account. Use Imgur.com

Fyi there's a seat removal tool that you need. Its usually square shaped and sold either at home Depot or Amazon for cheaper. You'll use it once every 10 years or so, so it's up to you weather it's worth the price or paying someone else. If you have an old diy'ee on your street I guarantee he'll not only let you borrow it, but be glad that it's getting some use.

You've gotten good input but I will ask, do you have access to the back side of the shower wall and do you plan on living there for a while? I ask because, and please don't take this the wrong way, that looks pretty old and busted and it would be a shame if you invest time and money into a temporary fix of something you want to use for any length of time. Based on the tilework and state of the faucet it looks like it's been DIY-ed at least once already so you may want to contemplate more of a replacement and tile refresh than a patch job.

I can't see your pictures. Is everyone afraid of a little dust and mold? I have torn out plenty of plaster and mold while using appropriate PPE (paper dust mask, t-shirt, jeans, shoes, and gloves) and nothing bad happened. Rip it out, throw it in the regular trash. Put your drywall right over the studs.

By the way, even if the ceiling is cracked plaster, you can drywall right over top of it. No need to remove it. Put furring strips on the ceiling across the joists. Put up the drywall on the strips. Extend your light fixture boxes to the new surface. If it is a tall ceiling, no one will miss the inch of height.

When you rent the house you give the tenant a lead hazard disclosure form. There are options of you saying you know there is lead, or you don't know if there is lead. If you test it and there is lead then you know. Or you can just check the 'I don't know box.' Either way they get a pamphlet that says that lead is bad. The main thing is that your exposed paint has to be free from chips, peeling, and cracks. I have never seen an inspector, including a HUD inspector, actually test for lead paint.

While you're not "limited", if the selector one is in such a state, the hot/cold are likely not much better and may fail quite soon. It's probably best to bite the bullet and replace the whole thing while you're at it instead of doing the same work 3 times in 3 consecutive years as one valve after another fails.

I've only seen generators tied in directly after the meter. You should probably check your local code to verify any regulations.

Your description of the framing off the dock is concerning because I can’t think of a reason where joists would work as intended when installed as you describe. Their strength comes from being installed with the narrow edge used to support the decking/floor. You’re correct about updated pressure treated wood regulations. The ACQ lumber does not seem to be as hardy as the older CCA lumber. You may want to see if any dock builders supply a different grade of PT lumber? You could also use Mahogany/Ipe/Teak or any number of more exotic lumbers that stand the test of time better. I also suspect the decking failure may be connected to the joist positioning as that is a lot of surface area to have moisture trapped and it’s just as capable of damaging the underside of the decking as it is the top face of the joists. In your instance, the application of the joist tape may actually trap more moisture and hold it on the underside of the boards.

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Crescent wrenches, slip pliers and vice grips will work fine. Just be careful not to strip the nuts/fittings which are most likely brass and thus softer than the tools.

My place has Sterling brand shower valves. Neither Home Depot or Lowes carries parts for them. I have to go to Ace for plumbing replacement parts. In my town, Ace has a much greater selection than either of the two big boys. They don't carry a lot of other stuff like lumber. But that's not what you're after in this case.

Separate. Take the old cartridge with you. (I did this last week. My hardware store had the replacement washer for 19 cents.). If the cartridge is corroded/damaged, a new one should be available for less that $10. Replace or reuse the knob. (I wouldn’t worry too much about the seats. I’ve replaced several washers and cartridges and the seats have been fine.)

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Drilling a hole in a steel beam (or wooden beam for that matter) in the right spot will not effect the strength of the beam. That said, OP should not drill through this one.

Yep

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120+ years. I'm fairly confident that the paint is lead.

I know the drywall mud has trace amounts of asbestos in it from previous testing. I guess I gotta get the guy back out here to test the plaster?

no but it could be an issue if the line isn't big enough to support the generator running and the burners being on at the same time.

How old is the house, exactly?

You may be (un)lucky enough to have both lead and asbestos!