Theres probably one at a nearby library!

I guess I’m not 100%sure lol I just assumed I wouldve hit the lath

No air should be going through oil so return it and get you money back. Then buy a unit that has separate motor and pulley driven belt to do sand blasting.
https://blog.iseekplant.com.au/blog/air-compressor-sizing-for-sandblasting

The conspiracy theories abound on electrician forums, let me tell you.

Do you by any chance have a dishwasher or something that uses hot water scheduled to run at this time? I discovered with my boiler when it is really cold, if I am running hot water for a shower or something, its not heating my radiators during that time. During our christmas cold snap when it was like -1 outside with high winds, in the time it took 3 people to take showers we lost 10 degrees inside. As soon as the showers were done temp started clawing its way back.

If you trim it, which I think would actually be fine to accomplish... a few issues

1. Are the borders solid or some sort of veneer or hollow core?

2. Will you lose your mortises for the hinges and door knob hole?

3. The edges are probably subtly rounded, you'd need to restore that, not too hard to manage with a router, or maybe just sand paper

Pedantic comment follows -

This is NOT dry rot, this is corrosion. Rubber dry rots, metal corrodes.

The current boards look like they're butted right up against one another. I could be wrong but I think you want a gap ~5mm gap between each. Should help the water drain away and improve air circulation underneath

The county says it’s 1900. It’s a two story side by side duplex. The only addition to house is a two story porch that reaches the bottom of the second story bedroom window (the bedroom above the kitchen im working on).

The porch was put on the 80s I think.

The porch is through the wall my light is on in this picture. The white shit at the bottom is all dust.

https://i.imgur.com/wMjg98f.jpg

Only the lathe, not the studs? If they’re in the studs they’re fine. Only the lathe worries me less; I thought they were only in drywall

Looks fine in the pic you took but the place you really want to check is at the end of the joist. Thats where they absorb water the most and rot and fail. That's also usually where it attaches to the wall or whatever is holding it in place. From my personal homeowner experience with several decks, if the ends are good the rest is probably good.

I still remember working at a car dealership when an older lady was at the counter paying for an oil change, and the salesman told her how she could buy a package that would cover her oil changes for the next five years. She just laughed and said "do I look like I've got five years left? Not likely!"

Check extra carefully anywhere where soil might be in contact with the deck joists. If you replace them, replace them with treated two by sixes instead.

Nah. Them shits look good

I haven't tested the plaster, I already had a guy come test for asbestos before I found out about the plaster.

A two component clear coat will last longer. Ask the Rust-Oleum people if they know what works best, not what they're told to sell, applied over your current countertop.

You're looking at 600-1000 dollars to be replaced professionally. 200-500 on your own, this will show. and maybe 40 bucks to refurbish what you got. However, the refurbish, you may not get handles that match or fit right given the age. The cartridges or valve bodies should be available. Make sure to match them up. Also seats in the bottom, inspect nad ensure they are good. No chips or broken. Inspecting the valves themselves can give clues to their condition. If there the rubber is destroyed on the bottom of the valve body I would highly consider changing them. The metal seat on the valve can come into contact with the seat and damage it. Typical if it was not maintained.

In my honest opinion, a delta r10000 rough in with the bigger plate to cover the holes. Turns 3 handles into a single. Makes everything easier going forward and lifetime delta carts replacement which is nice. That is the 500-1000 dollar Cad range. Maybe less in the US, still labour can be 3-5 hours on something like this plus materials. This will cost the most, but will make the shower much nicer, easier to use and will also have a thermostatic mixing valve. But it costs a heck of a lot more. So yeaaaah, refurbish or pony up. I would HIGHLY recommend hiring a professional for a fresh instal.. Not saying you can't do it, but leaks behind the wall are expensive......

​

EDIT: Change rough in, had R220000, which is over kill, just needs the r10000

Yeah that is completely inaccessible to me lol. But thanks for the idea!

Have the paint tested first.

And as /u/therealw00zy stated - you'll probably also really want to have the plaster tested for asbestos. SOME plasters used to contain it.

Have both things tested before proceeding.

You can probably do a simple Google Search for lead and asbestos testing in your area. Call a few and ask how they do it. SOME places will just let you bring in your samples in baggies - then charge a certain fee per sample.

This might not be an optiomal solution but it would be somethibg easy to model and 3d print.

they look good to me, but i'd beat on them to see if the wood is soft. if it is it needs replaced, but you may be able to just scab a 2x4 on the side near the top.

Edit for all the people downvoting:

Excessive air coming from the oil fill is an obvious sign of a problem with the rings, cylinder, piston, or valves. My guess is broken rings or a fault with the intake valve. Such a defect will also prevent a compressor from intaking as much air as one that does not have such a defect, thus explaining why the air leak is deemed excessive yet assumed to not be the problem.

My bad for being tired and not breaking it down properly the first time. I get that most people lack the mechanical understanding necessary to have reached this obvious conclusion, especially considering how scattered my earlier trail of bread crumbs was.

Feel free to get back to downvoting. I also have a comment below for your downvoting enjoyment.

Original reply:

Get back on that original note, pal. Compressors work like internal combustion engines in that they have a crank shaft, pistons, and rings. Some leak through the rings is acceptable, but bear in mind that any air coming out of the oil cap is air not making it into the tank. Ergo, a lot of air coming out of the oil cap equates to a lot of leak. This is to be expected of a worn out unit, not a new one.

Granted, I do not know @op's gauge of what comprises a lot of air leaking out.

Drain valve is slightly open, unless you are saying you can set it to 40 psi and it eventually shuts off and hold pressure for hours. In which case it's just broken.

I can do that. You don’t think them being in the lath is enough?

I can't count the amount of times I forget to close the valve on the bottom of my compressor that you open when you are done. Are you sure you checked everything?