Circular saw would impart a good bit of vibration to the glass panel. Table saw with a well supported workpiece would work better. Might be best, if you really need to do this, to trim it back on the sides using a router and straight edge guide. That said, I agree with u/Alexstarfire, return it and get the correct size door. You could be setting yourself up for heartbreak and frustration by trying to adjust the size of the door.

Joist look fine

Yeah, I have a ground level deck and after ten years two joists have minor rot. Okay for now but will probably need to replace in the 2030s.

Return bro, better to be safe and just get a new one

Do you know the original date of the house? Are there additions? A pic of the house will help.

You might want to test the old plaster for asbestos while you're testing the paint for lead.

NGL, I'm not familiar with that control. This is a best guess situation. The lights are erratic, which makes me lean toward a faulty control...

However, there's no harm in cleaning the pilot and sensor and it's much, much cheaper than replacing the control, ($220+) so it's worth trying that first.

I believe they wanted to preserve the Penn Dutch stenciling along the top of the wall. You’re dealing with a timber framed or hybrid timber/balloon frame. That changes what and how you renovate. Typically there is no half way. You gut to the original framing and horizontal plank wall structure. Examine what is or is not there and make plans on the fly.

I mean. It’ll be worst if you try to cut it and ended up shattering it, right?

the vapor barrier and the studs by that vapor barrier look a little suspect. but I'm judging based on two pictures without much detail.

I need a sanity check. I'm about to redo this bathroom:

Master bath

I have some reno experience, as I just tore out a bunch of the guest bath. However, the shower is perplexing me, particularly the shower door.

It seems like a nightmare (for someone with limited experience) trying to get a corner enclosure ordered and installed with that knee wall there. Instead, I was thinking of building up the knee wall to just above the height of the tiles. That way, I only need a single side glass enclosure. After that, I'm going to put up some of those waterproof panels. While they're not amazing, I personally have a deep-seated hatred of grout.

Since that light in the background is the only one in the room, and the removal of the knee wall glass will make the shower darker, I'll be adding a new light over the shower as well.

Does all this make sense, particularly with the shower door?

Is the mold concern coming from the color of the vapor barrier of the insulation? I know that the insulation dates to around 1970 based on the parts I've already replaced in the lower walls. It wouldn't surprise me if there are small holes in the side paneling and I really doubt it has a moisture barrier on the outside.

[deleted]

I am going to assume that the beam is a structural component of the house.

If my assumption is correct, and really, why would it be made of steel if it was not, then why would you want to weaken it by drilling into it?

I would look for another way to do pullups.

Hit it with a hammer in a few spots if you put a hole in it shes soft replace if you dent it send it

[deleted]

Check valve plate

your climate in 7/8 has almost nothing to do with OP in 5. especially if you're in an arid part of 7/8.

[deleted]

I doubt there is any leak. that would show through the ceiling in time. you mentioned there is no insulation on the exterior wall there. so that's what is causing possible mold growth --- condensation from cold air meeting warm air in this space.

If it did run 20min straight due to a leak or other issue, good chance your pump seals are toast. It's not meant for that sort of continuous use.

Or maybe it was bad from the start.

Agreed!

I'm just talking about my google experience. I started my search with "best way to attach foam board to concrete." Every article I read started with, "This is not recommended but if you're set on it..." I ended up on this ad which was very informative and similar to my situation. I know this is a DIY sub but sometimes it's just not worth it and reputable companies provide warranties. A good warranty is worth it's weight in gold.

So yeah that's part of why I'm posting here, to find out what I don't know.

The room directly above the kitchen is a bedroom. This is the only room in the house that has a ceiling this low. I guess I just don't understand why they'd go through the trouble of removing the plaster from the walls but put a drop ceiling in. There's no hvac or plumbing that goes through the false ceiling. The only electric going through it is for lights in the false ceiling.

If there is a leak it's probably from the wood panels under the siding, which is in poor condition in some places from what I've seen. It is indeed a timber framed house.

I'm a bit confused, like air is coming out of the oil cap all the time? Do you have the cap off? Which gauge are you reading the 100psi on when you're adjusting the regulator?

On a different note...a blaster is a seriously air intensive tool, you're going to need a lot more air compressor for that.