I'll take tips on better options, but this is how builders build new around here in climate zone 7/8 circa 6 years ago. I've got one of these walls open right now and the only evidence of water is ice on the exterior concrete wall above the ground level which is expected around here. The wood isn't going to rot because it can still breathe to the exterior through the top.

Maybe it is broken but with such a small tank you won't have enough cfm of air to do much work.

It's defective. No way on earth that should take so long to fill.

A 2 HP, 2.6 gal tank? That thing should fill and shut off in a couple minutes. You'll see decent drops in pressure quickly though from using tools because the tank is so small. So the compressor will kick back on constantly.

Sounds defective if it's really taking 20 minutes to fill.

Just return it and have them give you the proper door.

I just did this too. Since I was installing Timbertech PVC I went ahead and replaced all my joists. 32 in all. Some looked like yours, some were much worse, but why install a long life deck board on lower life structure? I added sealer and joist tape to all the new joists.

Agreed. You are talking a gut demo with mold in the air. Thats old plaster. What shape are the original joists? What shape is the attic?

There was a reason previous owners installed a drop ceiling. My bet is there is some history there. Stenciling along the top? Timber framed structure?

Before you blame boomers, consider maybe you could learn about renovating historic houses… which I have done in the past.

That’s probably fine. Make sure it’s paintable (most silicone caulk isn’t paintable). Avoid clear; if your shelves are white, use white caulk (be careful; the labels of white and clear look a lot alike). You don’t need waterproof.

Those screws need to be swapped out ASAP.

Get familiar with strap toggles (also called snap toggles, zip toggles and Togglers). You can just push them in at the existing holes in the plaster (take the wood off first, and use the same holes in the wood)

https://youtu.be/r2r44N5tvR8

Finish trim, routing edges for smoother look, caulk, paint.

From what I understand and have read it is not a good idea to seal walls of from the inside because you will just trap the water in the walls. What they do here in my county (Germany) if you don't have the means to excavate the whole building is to push a liquified compound through holes drilled from the inside which then saturates the walls, stopping water from coming through and providing thus an outside seal.

With some technical skills its possible to do it yourself. E.g. see this description of the barrier in EN. The link describes a seal-off for humidity coming from the ground, but another option (vertical barrier) exists. Same process, just more holes.

https://www.isotec.de/en/workmanship/sealing/horizontal-barrier.html

Also, why don't you get a company to judge the situation and make an offer? And then use their knowledge for your own gains. You don't have to pay them for the full job, they will just take some money to have an assessment which they will give you in writing or directly. But sound interested. And in the end, you just happen to find somebody else or change your plans ;-) .

So can I through shade on your generation for overthinking everything and getting muddled in poorly informed details. Cuz you do and we think all y’all r fucking it up in ur own generational way 💋-Gen X.

1. Test the paint ur self or contact a lab. Don’t assume and spend a lot money/effort for a nonexistent risk, smh.
2. Look at the website of ur disposal company for info on lead paint/drywall disposal.
3. Maybe consider the project is now over ur head, HA, and you should find a qualified professional.

Would love to see pics of it!

Is it worth it to repaint a particleboard desk? I kept getting different answers from online and people i ask. Basically:

• I got this desk 3 years ago on clearance. It isn’t bad- but I definitely would want to upgrade eventually.

• it has a weird gray teal color and now the paint is chipping and revealing the particleboard.

I have a little money to use- but what money I do have would only be able to get me another particleboard desk. I’m keeping an eye out in thrift stores and Facebook marketplace, though!

So in the meantime i was thinking just sand, prime (oil based) and paint (glossy black or green). If I wanted to go above and beyond I could fill the (Wildly unevenly placed) hardware holes and get new hardware. But I’m feeling kinda stuck here! I mainly do small diy stuff (if you can call making your own shelves out of wood and brackets that, lol) so I’m not sure if if it’s even worth it? Any guidance or insight is appreciated!

Edit to add: or if anything would a quick sand and some contact paper be better?

Don’t. Just don’t.

FYI the insulation batting that's up there either has an oddly variegated dark back side of the vapor barrier or you've got a mold issue too. Find the source of the leak and fix that.

As far as the lead paint, there are cheap test kits from your local big box store. Ask the paint department where to find these.

I don't see the photo.

Are you sure it's stucco? Because it could very well be fireproofing. Does it looks like this? https://www.liveabout.com/fireproofing-method-structural-members-845033

If they're not sitting on the ground, which it looks like they're not - good airflow and no insect damage then most likely fine.

It’s usually chrome plated plastic covers that slide or thread over the brass valve.

No

Thanks for the reply. The dock decking is mostly covered by a tin roof, but the dock perimeter and ~40 feet of catwalk from the shore is not.

The house was built in the 50s and this will be only the third time we replace the decking, but I’m not shy about incorporating new best practices.

The way the decking is built, the joists (?) underneath are laid horizontally (2x6s, 6 side up) for attaching the deck to, so there is quite a bit of lateral surface to collect water. So we do have some issues with it rotting out where we screw in the decking. While the exposed decking suffers the most from 24/7 full sun (house on the north side of the lake so the decking is south facing).

Edit: I think we’re also victims of the pressure treatment regulations change as we replaced the decking only ~15 years ago and it’s already pretty soft in some places compared to the original decking in a pile on the property still having some pretty sound pieces still.

The Valve Socket is required to remove the diverter properly and then you would be able to match it up correctly yes. You can use a crescent wrench on the socket but I usually use a long screwdriver through the whole in the socket for extra leverage.

When you remove the valve check to see if the washer/oring was left behind in the valve body itself and if there is any damage inside so as to not ruin your new valve.

The manual for this control can be found here.

Page 49 says: All lights flashing - Pilot not established after 4 attempts.

So, either the pilot is not lighting, or it's not being sensed properly. My money is on a dirty flame sensor.

Either call someone to do it for you,

or

Turn off the gas and power to the unit. Figure out what you need to undo to get the burner tube that has the pilot assembly attached to it out. Undo that stuff. Clean the sensor (see page 32). Put it back together and test.

I've never got them together myself, so I would assume not. Get a flashlight when you pull the cartridge and look for a seat. if there is one, look for wear and chipping. If its beat take it out by unscrewing it with a big flat head or two flatheads, or go get the tool specific for seat pulling(its cheap). Take that seat into your hardware store to compare it so you get the correct one..... looking closer at your pics, those definitely look old enough to have seats.

Is it a condenser boiler? If so it is possible the outlet pipe freezes and therefore no air can get in.