I think it's worth saving but it's going to cost more than you think.

You can consider putting bituminous rubber strips on top before the decking goes on.

Looks good

No, use Lexel. Much better than silicone.

Pressure treated Pine. They will be fine. If you have them totally bare, you can slap a sealant on them if you want.

I’m not the guy to ask but I have a suggestion for some of the guys that might know?

What if you break out the current brick floor internally to the current walls, then prep and pour a good concrete foundation.

Then you could build 2x4 wall structures inside what’s already there and insulate in between?

They look like pressure treated lumber so they should be fine. I'd give them a coat of sealer to help preserve them anyway.

If there is no rot, no need to replace. From what is shown they look clean.

If you are replacing decking with a composite it may be worth while to wrap the tops in vycor or similar while you have it stripped. This will depend on location, cost, long term plans.

Order the correct door frame next time.

Your caulk was likely bad. Could have been an old tube, a tube that had a leak so moisture got in, a tube that was poorly formulated, or the temperature/humidity wasn't right when you applied it.

water based poly is fine. acrylic paint is also waterbased. its fine

It will absorb the first coat, but itll seal it and that 1 exposure wont affect it.

You can make raise panel doors from MDF, and the paint seals the MDF (though you gotta sand the shit out of it after the first coat)

No, but do you think it’s possible for efflorescence to appear this quickly? Overnight? I thought it was something that happens over time

They are attached to the front plate so the part that is seen outside

Nope. They're required in basically all dwellings now. There are like two rooms left where they're not mandatory, and I expect those exceptions will disappear soon.

Caulk doesn't flake.

You installed it in a sloppy fashion.

Why do you want to paint the plate that the switches are attached to? You’re not going to be able to see it.

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I thought AFCIs were only required in multi-unit residential buildings.

Use some tape to get straight clean lines. Keep it tighter to joint. The thin extended edges will not hold up to normal use a cleaning. The tape should be removed before caulk sets, but wipe it with finger dipped in mineral spirits. They have some tools for getting nice finishes that work well.

You have a water softener? Did you use water from the softener? Had a buddy that grouted with water from a softener where the salt level was too high and turned it white.

I don't know whether they're still available, but when I was a kid we had a portable dishwasher, and I know someone who still uses (an old) one. These roll around the kitchen, have a counter -- or cutting board -- on top, and load from the top. The inlet hose/drain hose attaches to the kitchen faucet with a quick-release connector. The unit plugs in to any wall socket. Saves changing the cabinetry. Gives you a floating island counter.

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Don't forget about airflow so look into getting some big windows

Idk man I put on the power mixer and went to town on that bucket

You did not mix it well.