Thank you for the good reminder. The wiring is copper, I know that much from the small amount of wiring work I helped my ex do. It was a house from a major builder at the time so I do and don't trust the wiring.

But I do have a list started for an electrician when I have the money of things that I can't handle. I would like a few new outlets placed and that's WAY outside my expertise. And the entire breaker box needing to be replaced. I wouldn't even touch that. I'm going to ask them when they're working if anything looks like it needs to be upgraded.

But replacing outlets/switches and light fixtures are the extent of what I feel I can handle. I can't afford to get a handyman or electrician to do all the little jobs. I haven't done a lot myself but I was always the helper with my dad and my ex and I'm aware of safety. I'm replacing the doorbell transformer this week or next weekend when it comes in so I can put in the video doorbell. But the fluorescent lights flickering in the kitchen, no. Might be as simple as replacing a ballast or starter but I'm just not confident since it's already flickering.

No. I knew that ahead of time before it was done. The install was done by the company I work for. Bids from plumbers were not cheap and just to get any of them to come out and look charged some form of fee.

[deleted]

There are zero GFCI outlets or breakers in this house. Built in the mid-70's, no major renovations other than a really cruddy tile floor that at least was more attractive than the mustard yellow vinyl tile that was under the carpet sections I yanked.

For example, I just took down a hard-wired smoke alarm dated 1975. Who knows how long since it's worked but I'm just now getting to evaluating any electrical boxes I didn't install. The hard-wired ADT system is about to get the can. I just found the control box today (in the pantry, had always thought it went to the phone) and the battery has been disconnected for who knows how long but I'm going to search and make sure there's not a transformer plugged into an outlet somewhere (it may be long gone) before I yank stuff from the wall, tape the wires and push them into the wall so I can repair them.

Would like feedback for how I could do this better next time. Pantry style shelves in a closet, screwed the supports into the plaster (no anchors but thinking that’d be upgrade #1), and then the walls aren’t square so there’s a lot of gaps when I put the shelves in themselves. I do flooring and I know how to trace for difficult cuts but this was not making sense to me. It’s fine for a closet that no one is going to go in but I want to get better at craftsmanship. Here’s a link of the install. https://imgur.com/a/rAVUe3U

Both would work.

Would a enamel paint spray work? Or is it better to go with a brush? Thanks!

12V/0.3A means that it requires 12V and .03A

The fan manufacturer has a datasheet out there somewhere that will have the tolerances of the device (i.e max & min levels etc.)

But for practical usage any 12v source, be it a battery or an ac/dc adaptor, that can supply at least .3 Amps should power your fan.

Depends on where this is in the home and how much you want to spend. If it were me, I'd just build out the curvature if the wall (if it's not somewhere important), and hang the drywall with its natural flex.

Alternatively, why not just build out the door frame section, then drywall that. Think vertical bulwark?

Is this not something your HVAC guy should of done? You probably paid for it I’d imagine.

I don't know how easy it is to paint everywhere but enamel paint should keep it waterproof. Acrylic is water resistant when dry.

It’s marble, a bitch to keep clean by itself :-) works fine for flooring though

Thanks. That is what I used. Can’t recall the brand, but it was bathroom, all-silicone caulk.

You want to use silicone caulk.

So here is the thing. A house from that era may have aluminum wires( and even if copper the workmanship was shit back then.

Been working on older houses like this for 40 years as a reno carpenter. I know all the basics but do I do it? No. We only have qualified electricians do the work. The same with gas fitting or plumbing.

I'm ok with DIY but know when to say when. Sorry but a house of that vintage needs a good go over by a pro.

An exhaust fan should remove a lot of the airborne moisture, but perhaps that's not the optimal material for that environment? Think of particle board and MDF as sponges made of wood. There will always be a tiny hole or crack, a flaw in the factory finish and moisture will migrate in and out. You might get a few decent years out of the unit but it over time...

[removed]

All standard dishwashers need a 24" space. If the cabinet is a 24" cabinet then yes you can fit it. Wider will work with creative work but less than 24" won't for a standard DW

Most cabinets are boxes screwed to the wall and screwed to each other. And maybe some screws into counter top. As long as you have 24" then yes knock that box out and use a gable against the fridge for support. You need 24" clear is really all you need to know.

Eh, a wall wart is cheaper smaller and less noisy.

You don't want to go too far overboard tough, switch mode power supplies aren't really stable without load.

Agreed. I should have mentioned that looking into permitting is important. If the existing shed is grandfathered in, some jurisdictions will allow you to replace with the same dimensions with prior approval.

Three things: First, the surface needs to be completely clean and dry. Second, it needs to be the right caulk- for shower and tub, 100% silicone. Third, lay the bead correctly- it looks like the previous bead was too wide and thin. There are some tools available to help, like this

Great Stuff will work. You're correct that it's closed-cell and will NOT wick water. The "Windows and Doors" type will expand less, but once you get the hang of the regular stuff you'll be able to tool it out in just the right amount. Any overspray and you can just cut it back after you've let it dry for a couple hours.

Is that tile recommended for floors? Looks like a wall tile to me and even if it is for floors that’s a lot of grout area to keep clean which is the number one thing most people dislike about ceramic tile….keeping the grout clean

To add to the other answers:

Many jurisdictions require you to add AFCI protection whenever you replace an outlet in an AFCI-required area (which is now most of the house, and I'd expect bathrooms to be added before long). The best way to solve all your problems is GFCI/AFCI breakers for those circuits, but you may have problems finding those affordably (or at all) for some old panels.

Note that AFCI receptacles work like GFCIs in that they'll protect everything downstream, so if you don't or can't go the breaker route, it might be worth it to find the first outlet on the circuit via trial-and-error and just swap that one with a combo outlet.

If you have to prioritize financially, always take care of GFCIs first. That's life safety.