Correct. You could trim the door by butting the trim up against the door frame instead of on top of the frame. If you get thicker trim no one will every notice (except you).

Check the bylaws though. Might be grandfathered in

Should be fine. Might need some support adding. You'll know when you take it out if you need to solve any structural problems.

What's your plan for the drawer? Half drawer?

It’s difficult to asses from a few pictures, but it might actually be more cost effective to demolish and rebuild from scratch.

If you can afford it I recommend a plumber. It's a huge pain to solder pipes together, I've done it as a DIY and I found it difficult to get a proper joint - I had to redo it several times.

If your house is wood frame you have the added danger of setting your house on fire with all the heat you are pumping into the pipe

Under-volt the fans so they run quieter. If 12v fans, try 5-8V and see how the sound is.

Just repurpose old wall warts. Get a cheap dc/dc converter if they are too high. You can also buy adjustable voltage universal wall warts and dial in the voltage (fan speed) that you like. Make sure it has a amperage rating of 0.3 A or higher. Higher is fine. Lower is not fine.

Nah... I present the even lazier way:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=pc+fan+power+supply&sprefix=pc+fan+power+%2Caps%2C162&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_1_13

The freezer door of my Whirlpool freezer on top fridge can slide up and down - is there a way to stop this or tighten it? Everything I'm finding online is about replacing the gasket or stopping the door from opening on it's own - it's fully aligned, but seems like it should be sitting up and locked in place higher.

Everything seems to get crystally so fast and I think it's a problem with the seal overall, even though the gasket is tight and flexible. I realized that the door itself sort of seems to be sliding up and into place when I close it, and that when closed/sealed, the door can be moved vertically up and down.

Model info:

Whirlpool WRT518SZFM00

You could pack it with something porous like rockwool.

Hopefully you prepped for the SECONDARY reason that dogs scratch at the thresholds of doors…termites. The work of termites is clearly apparent to dog hearing and the little scritchy scritch scritch of their movement and mandibular naughtiness at the expense of our home irritates their ears. They hear it…but don’t see it…and so, like going after the gopher that ducks under the lawn, your dog tears into the wood to get at the invisible enemy within. Any time you tear out wood that has dry rot or any other defect you should prep the area with a long lasting ‘oily’ pesticide specifically for termites. I do want to compliment you on a BEAUTIFUL JOB! And absolutely splendid taste in finish! One of the more serious faux pas in woodwork that Americans and Western Europeans have adopted unnecessarily from the East and far North is the brightly painted accents of trim, doors and eaves! In places that paint is the last final solution to resist weathering I say ‘great!’ Pour it on! But where we can it is so important to restore the beauty of natural wood finish and earth tones to our environment. This is how woodwork has been done for two thousand years in warmer and gentler climates simply for the beauty of it. Forgive me for the length here but I almost exclusively restore woodwork, buildings and furniture from the 14th-17th C and am always pleased to see the natural beauty of a thing be brought out in the practical usage of a thing. The right wood, the right finish…You’re a boss woodworker!

The finished door frame would still stick out into the room by some amount though right?

Did your dog have mumps?

Are you sure they aren't already downstream of another GFCI device? Personally, I would pick up an inexpensive outlet tester like this one to verify there isn't protection. Pushing the test button simulates a ground fault which would trip a GFCI device. I also would not worry about adding an AFCI receptacle. AFCI breakers protect the whole circuit and can be installed during a later panel upgrade.

If you've verified there isn't a GFCI upstream, you can use the outlet tester to check which outlet is first on the line by disconnecting one (turn off breaker, cap off the wires, turn breaker back on) and seeing if the other is still live. The GFCI receptacle will replace the first outlet, the feed wires will land on the terminal screws marked "line" (usually the top), and the wires feeding downstream devices will be landed on the terminal screws marked "load" (usually the bottom screws).

I would install a piece of trim to cover the door latch / lock holes. If installing trim around the door make sure the trim is wide enough to support the trim. Paint white to match door trim. Install the drywall first and then the trim will cover the edge of the drywall.

For one thing, if you want to go the breaker route, you can get GFCI breakers for your existing box (just make sure you match manufacturers because breaker panels aren't standardized. A Square D breaker won't fit in an Eaton panel). This adds GFCI protection to every receptacle on the circuit but does require you to identify the neutral wire for that circuit and move it to the breaker.

If you go this way though, you are further investing yourself into that manufacturer's ecosystem.

The GFCI receptacle adds protection to the receptacles down the line. It also adds the benefit of having the test and reset buttons in a convenient location. This does require you to determine which receptacle is 'first' in the chain. So you don't need to replace every receptacle on the circuit to have the protection.

I hope this helps. FWIW, I am not a licensed commercial electrician. I deal with electrical supply professionally, but it is all temporary distribution, so we don't deal with the same codes and all of the infrastructure is in the open.

Ok, we need an update. What ended up happening?

No, where the two open cabinets are. But they are separate boxes. Would knocking out the two outside walls of those two cabinet boxes be problematic?

Are you talking about putting it in the corner?

The dishwasher can go literally anywhere as long as you run power, a water supply, and a drain hose to it. The closer to the sink, the better, because those lines typically connect under the sink, but so long as it will fit where you’re indicating, I don’t see a problem other than losing that cabinet space.

Should have noted in the OP, directly to the right of this picture is the refrigerator

Any recommendations for how to fix exterior stucco cracks? Hairline to maybe a .5 centimeter wide but a foot or more long. Do I need to open it up or is there a way to just patch?

I'd rather cut wood by myself than stone.

I'd put a small bead of foam in the gap and then install baseboard.

I wish I knew.

Yeah this is the easiest solution that wouldn't require any engineering.

Depends if you’re changing the type of paint oil over latex or drastically changing the color. Otherwise just paint it twice. Sometimes with primer you’ll end up painting 3 times. 1 primer 2 finish color