I had an exterminator friend tell me that mice enjoy chewing spray foam, so only use the kind with fiberglass in it. Not sure which brands, but not regular Great Stuff.
You might want to consider laying a piece of 1/2" vinyl board along the floor and nailing it into the plate. Not sure if it comes in 1/2" but you could rip some 8' 1x's into 1/2" strips. Waterproof and quite chew resistant.

You want 12 volts and go overboard on the current, 2 Amp or more wall or inline warts are tiny. The fans will only draw the current they need and won't tax the power supply.

Looks like the wrong door. Only option to keep the door is to build out wall to match.

Someone bought a door for a 2x6 wall I'm guessing

I have 8 recessed lights (LED ~9-13W, 750 lumens) in my living room on a single switch that all went out at once. Breaker not tripped. Thought maybe they were in series or something. As I take individual bulbs from kitchen recessed lights to the living room they light up but are much fainter, as if they were dimmed all the way, but we have no dimmer.

As I take the "out" bulbs from the living room to the kitchen they fully light up to regular brightness, but if I bring them back to the living room, nothing.

Just bought the house in December but not sure what would cause such a thing. Any ideas? Is there a fuse or ballast type thing in recessed cans?

If one of your boxes has a decent power supply you could pull twelve volts for the fans from that. Plug into your harness and out the back of a case. I cooled a small network cupboard with extra fans like this for years without problems.

That is exactly correct. They have both electric and hand powered ones, I prefer the latter.

Then sand it. They make a special sander for drywall, a pole with a metal attachment. That makes it easier in my opinion.

yes i know fans are DC….?where did i say otherwise lol?

The door frame should be reset deeper into the studs.

Huh? Home computer fans are 99.97% of the time DC.

For years, I've used a "wall wart" type supply to run a computer fan for various needs; just make sure the amps that it can supply are equal to, or greater than the amps that the fan will draw.

FYI... I have a bin full of "wall warts" to choose from - when I get rid of old gear, I always keep the power warts so I will always have a handy supply. Solder on a different end, if needed, heat shrink tubing to finish the job right.

Bring the existing wall up to be 1/2" from flush with the frame. Then your drywall will cover the remaining depth.

How in the hell did the door end up so much thicker than the wall

Don't use Great Stuff - way too sticky and hard to work with.

Use DAP Texplus. You can clear (with water) the pipette to use again and things clean up way better.

Ok, 25cm is the typical highest bed leg raiser and they tend to rely on being compatible with a specific design of bed leg to attach securely.
For stability, if you don’t have the skills to construct a stable frame under the legs, I’d consider solid blocks of wood 30x30cm.
If you search for those you’ll find them on Etsy, etc. They’re not super cheap (£30 or so) but they’ll last and other sources like timber mills will be cheaper.

A piece of non slip mat under each one and between bed foot and block will keep the bed from gradually sliding over time.

I literally just did this last week for my solar inverters. I just used a 12V DC wall wort I had for my son's old hot wheels car. I wired two fans in parallel. Each fan uses 0.25A so 0.5A total

>people saying that the fan "will always draw 0.3A regardless of the voltage,"

That's nonsense. 0.3A is the nominal current. Lower voltage=lower current. It could be a little higher if airflow is impeded.

>Surely a 12V/0.3A rating would mean that the fan has a resistance of 40 Ohms and the current would just be I = V / R.

Ohm's law applies to DC in resistors. Fans use coils which have inductance as well as resistance. They commutate the DC into AC for the coils. Plus most DC fans are brushless and you can't measure the resistance directly because of their electronic commutation.

The equation I = V/R shows that current is proportional to voltage.

Applying more than 12V to the fan will force more current thru the fan and could melt the tiny wires in the fan motor (or at least shorten its life span).

You are correct, do not try to draw more current from the PSU than it is rated for. Using a PSU that has much higher current capacity is OK.

Should be perfectly fine to use - but I would recommend the foam that has the critter-repellent in the mix to keep the critters from making foam Habi-trails behind the drywall and through the foam.

Yes, though colors don't matter too much. Keep in mind the switch is just making/breaking the connection of the hot wire, so the reds are hot before the switch (line - always live) and the yellow is hot after the switch (load - switched on and off). It's best to double check with a multimeter but that's what it looks like from your pictures.

Good luck with that. Did it crack? Some companies save them for sale but most don't want to bother using up the real estate to store them. A new tank likely won't match up even same brand. Sterling is Kohler's bargain line. Time to buy the whole combo ( tank and bowl) A+ for effort though!

I've done a few things with spare fans - you can use pretty much any power supply that puts out 9-12V and you'll get good airflow - and yeah - like you and a lot of other posts are thinking, you'll want to make sure it puts out good current.
On my larger boxes where I'm using fans and TEC's, I use an old tower power control - even the relatively dinky ones are 350w and will drive your fans no problem with room to expand. You can get them new for 25 bucks and up. What I like about them is you have a switch on them - gives you control of whether the fans are running or not.

It’s a basement. You’re seeing the bottom but likely there’s a second 2x4 the drywall is attached to. The gap is for movement so if there’s any it does not break the drywall unless it’s extreme then you have other problems. The air movement is probably because cold air sinks and the slab behind is cooling the air that’s getting in via other intrusions and thus you have some airflow. Trim is fine.

Depends on where you live. If you’re in Colorado you have to leave a gap so the slab can move with the soil swelling.

So 2 red wires at single pole at dimmer switch then yellow = black then create ground?

Add 1x2's to the stud then 3/4" drywall that should be 1.5"