Recent comments in /f/DIY

GrimResistance t1_ja3quio wrote

At the fan box white is neutral, yellow is hot, connect a ground wire to the metal box. At the switch the reds are line (one incoming hot, one going out to feed another switch or outlet) and the yellow is the load (hot at the fan box). Again, ground the dimmer switch to the metal box.

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GideonD t1_ja3qrlm wrote

There are several items like this available: https://www.amazon.com/Controller-100-240vAC-Adjustable-Splitter-Multi-Functional/dp/B0BBSBV9CF

Also several that can plug into a USB charger. Something like this would be my choice as you can control fan speed via voltage so you can get your airflow to noise ratio dialed in to your preference. I got a similar setup in my AV rack, though it turns on and off automatically with a temperature probe.

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g_st_lt t1_ja3o9np wrote

It sounds like the "gap" between the drywall and the floor is not the issue. Is the air coming through the concrete? Or between the concrete and the bottom plate of the framing? Or from above the bottom plate?

It seems more likely you need to seal the drywall to the framing.

Others have mentioned moisture from the other side of wall. Hopefully there is a barrier between the framing and the wet dirt around you.

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incensenonsense t1_ja3kg6s wrote

An easier solution to try may be to use a flexible claw grabber pickup tool if you have one or have an easy way to get one. Will save the mess of cleaning out the p trap and getting everything re-sealed without a leak.

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Tamariniak OP t1_ja3izr0 wrote

So please let me know if I'm understanding this right:

  • The stated voltage (12V in my example) is the maximum voltage
  • The stated current (0.3A in my example) is the maximum current
  • The current going through the fan can be calculated using Ohm's law, I = V / R, where R = Vmax / Imax (40 ohm in my example)
  • I just need to make sure the sum of the currents going through each of my fans is less than what the PSU is rated for

I saw some people elsewhere suggest that the current flowing through the fan is constant and not dependent on the supplied voltage, but that doesn't really make sense in my head since I don't think the fans could just magically reduce their resistance.

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Old_Geek t1_ja3drgy wrote

Totally ok to run a PC fan at a lower voltage.it will use less current. The wall wart suggestions are the cheapest and easiest as you probably have one laying around. I'm an ee and do this all the time. It's actually hard to find a 12v wall wart that is less than 1amp these days. A 5v cell wart will run it silently but with much less air flow. I use this combo for my bench fan for soldering to keep the fumes out of my face

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robertjpjr t1_ja3dilz wrote

Buy a cheap PC PSU. Jump the green wire to black so it turns on. Connect your fans to the power supply. If your fans use molex, that's easy. If your fans use a 3,4 pin connector you can buy adapters and or a hub type splitter.

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