Recent comments in /f/DIY

Honest-Sugar-1492 t1_ja2xuwu wrote

You can more than likely replace all the interior parts in that toilet for less than $25. You're never gonna find a brand new toilet for $25. Least expensive I've seen through a supply house is roughly $100 unless you're able to get it at trade cost.

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BeginningCharacter36 t1_ja2x0yr wrote

I have an old gas stove, too. Gas has gotten so bloody expensive in Northern Ontario, we literally turn the feed to the stove off when not in use because pilot lights use gas.

Do you have to hold a little button down while lighting the pilot light? That button is a bypass on a box with a safety valve in it connected to a wee probe in the oven that confirms there's flame in the pilot light. No flame, probe cools off, safety valve closes. It's completely independent of the stove top. I only light my oven pilot light if I know I need the oven.

If your stove is REALLY old, like the one at my husband's family cabin, no such luck. It has no bypass for the oven, and all pilot lights MUST be lit or you're spewing propane into the cabin.

If you literally never use the oven, you can actually just disconnect the feed to the oven and put a cap on that line. You can do that yourself, but if you know nothing about gas fittings, better to have a professional come do it. The fitting probably costs $2, so you're just paying for their time and expertise.

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BeyondRemarkable t1_ja2uc55 wrote

Have you considered using a brush and just going slow and careful between the switches? You can always mask off the switches to get the spray finish on the areas that will be exposed. Once the key caps go back on the inner area will be barely visible so a brush finish could be sufficient to accomplish your goals.

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bcossa2001 t1_ja2mski wrote

Commercial contractor here….I’ve never seen paint applied to concrete….usually it’s some type of special coating like an epoxy which requires a high level of skill to look proper. The biggest issue is moisture vapor emission from the concrete itself that loosens the paint/coating. Companies who apply finishes to concrete will test for the slab for water vapor emission and if it exceeds a certain amount they apply a special sealer that typically costs as much as the finish product. Ground and polished concrete is a popular finish these days but it is an inexact science particularly when there are previous finishes as you are experiencing. You can buy less expensive curing/sealing compounds but these must be reapplied periodically to look nice. Even new slabs that are ground and polished may look bad because of different distribution of the aggregates within the concrete mix. This is not an indication of poor concrete - more a characteristic of concrete itself. It’s also difficult to grind concrete next to a wall…..you must use a different machine so you end up with variations between the ground finish on the concrete. We try to talk owners out of it, or at least convince them to use a tinted product….gray is a popular choice.

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StubbedToeBlues t1_ja2mp3c wrote

50cm is outrageously tall, and will be unstable for any traditional risers. You'd have to build an entire platform to hold the full weight of your bed up that tall, to avoid a 2:00am collapse

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CharlesForbin t1_ja2cqic wrote

If you're hanging a ceiling, then you are probably more worried about the pull strength (straight out of the mounting material) of the screws, rather than the shear (sideways), compression (push) or tensile (stretched) strength of the screw itself. If driving into wood, the type of wood fixing is going to have a lot more bearing than the respective strength of the screws.

On the face of it, 36kg/12 screws = 3kg per screw. If the mounting surface can grip the screw sufficiently, any 5mm x 50mm screw will support this easily, in any dimension.

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